Category Archives: Denmark

Stockholm – Hustle & Bustle

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StockholmCardLet’s start with a travel tip. I’m always a little leery of package schemes and deals aimed at visitors, but the Stockholm Card is the exception and a great deal. This is a real godsend, which, if you keep busy, offers significant savings. It is also hugely convenient to not have to dig for cash or use a credit card everywhere you go. Besides giving you free passage on all of Stockholm’s public transportation you also get free access to over 75 major museums and major historical sites.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Stockholm is a big and busy city, not big and busy in an otherworldly sense like Hong Kong, New York or London. There are no skyscrapers and the church spires are still the tallest structures in town. There are no giant cloverleaf overpasses like arteries in some huge beast, but Stockholm is spread out over 14 islands with a complex overlapping transport system that incorporates ferries, buses, trams, subways, bridges, walkways and roads that tie the whole thing together.

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The City Food Market

CityMarket

The City Food Market

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Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

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In Blasieholmen

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On the ferry to Djurgarden

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In Blasieholem

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On the ferry to Djurgarden

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On the dock in Skeppsholem

Statue

Hotorget Square

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Across the water towards Ostermalm

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Across the water towards Ostermalm

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Kiosk in Djurgarden

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Clock near Kungstradgarden

Old Tram Sign

Old Tram Sign

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Building in Ostermalm

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Walking in the old city.

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Near T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, or “Old Town”, is our favorite part of the city. It is situated on the island of Stadsholmen and is one huge warren of narrow medieval streets and heritage sites. The Royal Palace, museums and 17th century churches are just steps from each other. The entire atmosphere is of a bygone era.

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Stortorget was the site of the old Stock Exchange is now a lively square in the heart of the old town but in 1520 it was the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath when the Danish King tricked the Swedish Regent and beheaded more then 80 Swedish noblemen in this very square.

Stortorget

Stortorget

The Hotorget Flea Market

No trip would be complete without a flea market. The square at Hotorget is a flower and produce market all week but every Sunday it transforms to a great little second hand market. Just try to keep Wendi away. I dare you.

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Sinking Expectations or The Very Short Voyage of the Vasa

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When the Vasa was designed by two Dutch brothers in 1628 it was the largest and most heavily armed war ship in the world. With this vessel the Swedes hoped to strike fear in their enemies and control all trade on the Baltic Sea. Unfortunately, there was no engineering, as we know it, at the time and all construction was essentially done by trial and error. The massive ship proved to be just a whisper too tall and slightly too narrow. It was a lovely sunny day on August 10th in 1628 when the Vasa set out on it’s maiden voyage. In a slight breeze it listed a little to starboard, took in water through the gun ports and sank to the bottom of Stockholm harbor where it lay until being rediscovered in 330 feet of water in 1956. After a complex salvage operation and a 17 year conservation project the Vasa now sits proudly in it’s own especially designed museum.

http://www.vasamuseet.se/en/The-Ship/Life-on-board/

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The Wendi Files

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The Wendi Files:

I’ve been kicking around with Wendi for quite awhile now. When I was editing pictures the other day I realized that over the years, picture-by-picture, image-by-image, slowly but inevitably, I’ve turned into the chronicler of all things Wendi. While perusing the files it quickly became apparent the she has totally encompassed my entire interest and attention. I’m sort of a photographic stalker. People in Holland must be thinking, “Who’s that woman with the photographer following her around.” Shades of Gloria Swanson.

And the thing is she’s just not that gosh darned interesting. Don’t take me wrong she has her moments. That time with the bottle washer noises in the Sultan’s Palace. Or when she got drunk on that God Awful green stuff in Bruges. Sure they were great times, but to return home each day with fifty frames of the same person. I don’t think it’s natural. What do you think?

Maastricht

Maastricht

Adult Education:

She’s a sponge with Attention Deficit Disorder. Her thirst for mental input is unquenchable. Between taking pictures, sorting pictures, uploading pictures, checking on Facebook, checking email, QR Coding, “GPS”ing, Trip Advisoring and Googling everything in the world it’s nonstop.  the Iphone is her most perfect accessory. It keeps that hot wire to the brain firmly in place.

The Crazy Hour:

Just like a cat she’s got a Crazy Hour. It’s sometimes a little longer, but the symptoms are always the same. Elevated metabolism, heightened awareness, peculiar facial expressions and extremely wacky behavior complete with physical pratfalls. Like a Labrador Retriever, run, run, run, sleep, run, run, run, sleep.

Hey, Look This Way:

Sure I point out all these characteristics, but I’m the enabler. I’m the guy running around saying, “Stand over here”, “Look this way”, “Say Gouda”. Perhaps I’m the one with ADD and she just tolerates me.

Enough

Enough

Chilly In Copenhagen

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I thought the Dutch were tough. They’re whimps compared to the Danes. I haven’t been this cold in 20 years and they’re telling me it’s down right balmy. It’s 15 F out there and then an icy wind starts to blow. It creeps up your back and makes your jeans as penetrable as tissue paper. Do you think it slows these people down? Hell no! It’s spring in Denmark. They’re biking and walking and window shopping and setting at outdoor cafes with cold beer. The construction workers in front of our hotel started at 6am. They must have been trying to beat the afternoon heat. Nobody even notices the temperature. That’s the reason I’m complaining to you, the Danes don’t know what I’m talking about.

A frozen Nyhaven.

A frozen Nyhaven.

Hot or cold Copenhagen is a terrific town. It’s got a nice pulse with a lot of color and a youthful vibe. Cars and bikes and trucks and pedestrians all vying for dominance, and yet somehow cooperating with each other. Walking at night or taking public transport, although freezing, is relatively stress free as this is Europe’s safest city.

Copenhagen has lots of courtyards and private passages from one street to the next. I was intrigued with them 20 years ago and find that I still am.

There are a few things that every tourist is obligated, by law, to see.

And lots of shopping.

Nervous Shopper

Nervous Shopper

A Raid On Odense (the D is silent)

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Take me now! You Girly Man.

Take me now! You Girly Man.

We have sailed into Odense, Denmark. Named for the Norse god, Odin, this must be the epicenter of Viking culture. As it turns out this is more the birthplace of Denmark’s favorite son, Hans Christian Andersen, then a Viking encampment. Our dear friend and Danish host, Dea, has informed us that Vikings were mostly farmers and all this talk about rape and pillaging is pure myth. That been said, I would much rather keep some of my illusions in tact and think of Vikings as the spitting image of their Gods; fierce, courageous and brooding.

St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

St. Canute’s Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

The history of St. Canute’s Cathedral does very little to dispel the Viking myth. King Canute and Prince Benedict were both slaughtered by angry peasants on the altar of nearby St. Alban’s Priory in 1086. Arriving at the site to collect her dead husband’s remains, Queen Adela said the small church emminated a golden light. Pilgrims soon began to show up to have their infirmities cured. Never ones to let let good propaganda go to waste, the Catholic Church canonized King Canute in 1108 and moved the Saint’s remains into the newly constructed Cathedral. And the miracles just keep on coming.

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

We’ve had a few snow flurries in Denmark. Mostly the air has been clear and sharp, but winter is still with us. The sun stays low in the sky and the trees haven’t  begun to soften their mark on the surroundings. 

16th and 17th century timber houses are scattered throughout the old town.

Finally, the “What the Hell Is It?” section.

I asked a lot of people what this is. Either nobody knew or thought I was an idiot for asking.

Rope Thingy.

Rope Thingy.

These are the Danish version of French balconies. Actually, they’re pretty cool and really open up a room.

French Balconies

French Balconies

These devices come in a variety of designs. They have a mirror on each side and allow you to set in the house and keep an eye on anything happening up and down the street. Apparently this is a very popular pastime in Denmark.

Nosey Neighbor Spyware

Nosey Neighbor Spyware