The Journey
We sailed out of Helsinki Harbor on a beautiful sunny day for the 2 1/2 hour ferry ride to Estonia. The ship winds through the islands that dot the coast of Finland and then 80 km across the Baltic Sea.
Tallinn is Estonia’s capital and cultural hub. It retains its walled, cobblestoned old town, a 15th-century defensive tower, Gothic Town Hall, historic main square and numerous 13th-century churches. The only downside was that we were a little late in our discovery and found the place packed with tourists from all over the world. We tried to not let the crowds diminish our appreciation and spent a few days wandering Vanalinn, the old town, and marveling at the architecture.
Doors Of Many Colors
I love the uniqueness of the doors. Everyone wants the front portal into their building to be a personal statement, like entrance art. I’m certain people have done entire books about them.
And a couple windows.
All Along The Watchtower
Large portions of the wall and many of it’s gates are still intact today. This has contributed to Tallinn’s old town being named a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Construction of the first wall surrounding Tallinn, known as the Margaret Wall, was begun in 1265 by Ruler Margaret Sambiria. In the beginning it was less than 16 ft tall and about 5 ft thick at the base but over the years it was enlarged considerably. By the fourteenth century all the citizens of Tallinn were required to serve guard duty, They had to wear armor and be prepared to fight off invaders.
Margaret Sambiria
Margie was a tough old bird with a reputation as a competent and enlightened ruler with a strong-willed and energetic personality. Her nicknames were ’Burst-horse’* and ‘Black Greta’.
When her husband, King Christopher of Denmark, demanded autonomy from the church it launched a full blown feud. The King insisted that the church pay taxes like any other land owner. Archbishop Jacob Erlandsen, the wealthiest man in the kingdom, refused and forbid any peasants who lived or worked on church properties to serve in Christopher’s Army. Erlandsen excommunicated the king and refused to recognize Christopher’s young son, Eric, as the rightful heir. That was the last straw, the King had the troublesome archbishop arrested and paraded him through the country wearing secular clothing and a fool’s cap with a fox tail . He was then chained and cast into prison.
But payback was swift and on May 29, 1259, in revenge for his mistreatment of Archbishop Erlandsen and oppression of the church, the King drank poisoned communion wine from the hands of one abbot Arnfast .
His son and heir, Eric V of Denmark, was still a child so Margaret was made regent until he reached maturity. Planning ahead, in 1263 Margaret successfully wrote to Pope Urban IV asking him to allow women to inherit the Danish throne. In 1266, her son, King Eric, granted her the rulership of Danish Estonia for life.
* Apparently there are documented cases of some horses racing so hard and fast that their hearts would literally burst.
Modern Tallinn
I don’t want to leave you with the impression that Tallinn is just an old place because it certainly isn’t. It’s a modern prospering and fast growing city with a vibrant downtown. The Rotermann district, in particular, is very cool with small shops and eateries of every description. Don’t hesitate to come, just try to make in the autumn after all the cruise ships and big busses have gone home.
See you in Berlin.
Hi there:
What a special location. Never been there.
There was a big sockermach. Madrid real derby atletico madrid. Maybe thats why so many extra tourists!
We saw this game at spain.
Enjoy the traveling! Gr. mariette
Love Tallinn! Your pictures brought back such wonderful memories.
I love the doors and towers of old town. I’m glad to see the new camera, and the eye behind it, working so well!
The house (?) #18, yellow and stone with the 2 Egyptian like heads at the top, the 2 women (?) and 2 dragons is interesting. You are reflected in the window, then inside is a statue of a man in a yellow suit. An nothing else around it. A museum, lobby, or just an oddity?
Also noticed lots of graffiti around some of the doors. Haven’t seen it in most of your photos so far. Is it more common in Tallinn than other places you’ve visited, or just the area you photoed?
You are giving me many ideas of where to travel once Bruce retires next year! Thanks much, and look forward to more.
Cheers
The building with the yellow man is a great gallery. Yes, there’s graffiti in Tallinn but not crazy like in Germany and Spain.
Love all of your photos…..but particularly the architectural styles that are presented in your photography. My favorite…..doors and doorways. Everywhere we’ve traveled, doors seem to be such a personal expression by the homeowner. Your photos of doors/doorways/ and windows are wonderful!