Category Archives: Castles

Freddy’s Place

Frederiksborg is an amazing castle. What we see today is in fact the third incarnation of the palace. In 1550 Frederick II acquired the estate in an exchange agreement, renamed it Frederiksborg and began constructing buildings. His first son Christian spent much of his youth here and came to love it. When he became King Christian IV in 1558 he immediately ordered the existing building torn down and rebuilt in a Renaissance style. The project took just ten years, an enormous accomplishment at the time. It is still the largest Renaissance palace in the world.

Jacob Christian Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg Brewery, recognized the national significance of Frederiksborg and knew that the country alone could never afford to rebuild it. He embraced the project and using original plans and paintings from the period organized and funded the rebuilding of the entire structure. He also agreed to maintain and staff of the castle in perpetuity. The docents that greet and inform the millions of visitors all work for the Carlsberg Company.

Christian IV

In Frederiksborg there are at least 160 portraits of Christian IV. In this painting the crown sits on the right. It was considered too egocentric for a monarch, even one anointed by God, to be wearing the crown in a royal portrait. The visor of helmet is raised indicating that the country was at peace when the painting was made. Christian IV was not just interested in fine buildings, he loved wine, wars and women. He married twice and had 24 legitimate children. It is also thought that he had an additional 30 children with five different women, of which he acknowledged 26 who he provided for and dubbed his “Golden Lions”. When he died in 1648 he left the treasury completely depleted.

Throwing Down The Gauntlet

Karl Hansen Reistrup made this historic painting in 1909. It is titled “Niels Ebbesen avoids Count Gert” but I imagine what is really depicted is “Ebbesen Confronting Gert “. I was drawn to the picture because it is the first image I have seen that depicts the actual act of throwing down the gauntlet. Up until now I had imagined that the expression was a metaphor that simply referred to a challenge and not an actual act, but in the age of chivalry it was indeed a real thing and a grave insult so egregious that it could only be answered with personal combat.

In the painting we see that Ebbesen has enraged the entire group. Men are yelling, some are coming out of their saddles, everyone is tense and worried. Even the horses are pissed off. Not only has Ebbesen thrown down his gauntlet but has raised his hand in the classic three finger “up yours” gesture. He is definitely itching for a fight. I doubt that this encounter actually took place and that the painting simply expresses the conflict between the two men.

What really happened was that Gerhard III, a German Count from the house of Holsten, had levied exorbitant taxes on this part of Denmark. Ebbesen refused to pay. With an army of 11,000 men Gerhard advanced on Denmark to collect his debt by force. Gerhard set up his headquarters in the small town of Randers. On April 1, 1340 under the cover of darkness Ebbesen and just 47 knights advanced on the town. He took two of his most trusted men, snuck through the town and into the inn where Gerhard was staying. They made their way to his bedchamber, killed his guards, dragged Gerhard across the bed, lined his neck up with the bedstead and chopped off his head. The men then made their escape with the loss of only one man. This act solidified Ebbesen’s place in Danish folklore and made him Denmark’s first national hero. He will forever be a symbol of Danish resistance and rebellion against their German overlords.

His reputation was so powerful that in 1942, during the occupation, the author Kaj Munk wrote a play celebrating Ebbesen. Hilter so feared rebellion that the play and any writings about Ebbesen were outlawed.

Live Larsdotter

This portrait of Live Larsdotter was painted by P. van den Hulst in 1691. She was the famous astronomer Tycho Brahe’s housekeeper. This is the first time I’ve seen a royal portrait of a housekeeper. Her claim to fame was her longevity. She died in 1698 at the age of 123.

Dr. Johan Frederick Struensee

The German doctor Johan Frederick Struensee was King Christian VII’s personal physician. It seems that Christian VII was mad as a hatter. Historians suggest that he was schizophrenic and heard voices from an early age. The nobles were completely distraught until Dr. Struensee arrived at court and said he could cure the king. He couldn’t really cure Christian VII but he could keep him sedated and quiet which is really all the nobles wanted.

The good doctor came to realize that he could rule the country by keeping the king behind the scenes. Struensee got a little ahead of himself and staged a coup d’etat 1772, which got him executed. It’s truly unfortunate, apparently he was a pretty good ruler and most of his progressive ideas are part of Danish culture today.

Tjolöholm Castle – A Private Utopia

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Now I’m really confused. They refer to Tjolöholm as a castle, but it seems to me to be the very definition of a palace or a mansion or even a country estate, but not a castle. It was designed in the Arts and Craft style to be the quintessential British country house by architect Lars Israel Wahlman, a man who never set foot in the British Isles. The project began in 1892 shortly after power couple James Fredrik and Blanche Dickson purchased this amazing piece of property. Planning the Elizabethan mansion took six years and then another six years to finish construction.

The Dicksons, of Scottish ancestry, were the third generation to make Gothenburg their home where James Fredrik ran the trading company Dickson & Co. founded by his grandfather in 1816. They were enormously successful and used their fortune to construct their idea of a utopian estate. The mansion itself offers everything the gentry could wish for, stables full of thoroughbred racehorses and scores of the most exquisite carriages of the day. Amazing views over the water of Kungsbacka Fjord to the small islands beyond. A lovely beach for swimming complete with a bath and boathouse. The house itself has all the modern conveniences of the day, including indoor plumbing, electric lights, central heating and even a vacuum cleaning system. Everything in the house and on the grounds is of the highest quality and the most pristine design.

The scrollwork above the stove reads: As Time Can Be Redeemed At No Cost – Bestow It Well – Let No Hour Be Lost

Blanche was convinced that a happy estate required happy workers and that called for quality housing in an idyllic setting. She designed and built a lovely little village where each family has a nice cottage with room for the children to play and a yard where each family could have a small vegetable patch. She even had a church built to insure the families got the necessary religious training.

At the end of the day this is sadly a bit of a cautionary tale. Shortly before construction began James Fredrik was celebrating at the Grand Hotel in Gothenburg. He cut himself opening a bottle of wine and wrapped the foil around his finger to stanch the bleeding. He died of blood poisoning a week later. A heartbroken Blanche toughened up, took control of the construction and finished the project. Not two years later she sailed to Ceylon to visit her brothers tea farm, ate some bad fruit on the ship and died of dysentery on the return trip to Europe. She was buried at sea in the Indian Ocean.

Once again the old wisdom rings true, don’t save your dreams for another day, do it now while fate allows.

A Castle Or A Palace?

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Just what is the difference between a castle and a palace? A docent recently told me that castles were built as fortifications where as palaces are essentially big fancy houses. I think there’s a little more to it. Castles are almost designed to be incredibly uncomfortable. They are cold, drafty and intensionally hard to get in to with narrow, steep and winding stairways. Palaces are plush, amazingly adorned and some are pretty cushy. Their commonality lies in the fact that they are both designed to impress. Castles, as well as providing protection from the disgusting rabble just outside the gates, were built to impress your enemies with your size and might. The sheer bulk of the structure could strike fear in the hearts of your foe as his cannon balls bounced off the 12’ thick walls. Just approaching them could be dangerous. Arrows could rain out of the little slit windows at a moments notice. Hot oil could pour down on your head from the 100’ ramparts. It both looked and felt impregnable. Now a palace was built to impress in a whole different way. Your wealth is your fortification, your cannons are loaded with political and social connections. To gain entrance to a castle you might have to scale a wall, cross a moat, walk under a murder hole and hack your way through a battalion of blood-thirsty mercenaries. Where as getting into the palace may only involve passing through an army of groundskeepers and a phalanx of maids and butlers but could be just as daunting a task. At some point wealth and status becomes as powerful a weapon as the sword and the cannon.

Örebro Castle

Kärnan

Gripsholm Slott

Gripsholm is an amazing property. Although never attacked it most definitely began its life as a fortress when Bo Jonsson Grips built the first structure on the little island in 1370. It became a monastery in the 1400s until King Gustav I took over. In 1526 he both reinforced the fortifications and turned it into one of the royal residences. The Slott was renovated in 1773 and again between 1889 and 1894, getting a little more palace-like each time. Most of the monarchs from the 16th through the 18th century spent considerable time in Gripsholm.

In summer all the royal residences have a garden that depicts the Crown.

The House of Vasa

In the words of the great Mel Brooks in The History of the World Part 2, “It’s good to be the King!”, unless, of course, you get exiled or imprisoned or poisoned by your power hungry brother or unscrupulous children. It would appear that Kings don’t really have any friends. Even their closest advisors will turn on a dime.

Gustav was elected King by the Swedish Parliament but quickly decided that harmony could only be achieved if his heirs replaced him. After his death his first son Erik became King but Erik didn’t trust his brother Johan. He charged him with high treason and imprisoned him with his wife in a small two room apartment for four years. When Johan was finally released he immediately imprisoned Erik in the same apartment and began to slowly poison him. Johan took over but died in 1592. Johan’s son Sigismund was supposed to became king but his Uncle Charles IX had a different plan. He quickly imprisoned his nephew and eventually exiled and deposed him. So much for family harmony.

In all the portraits of the House of Vasa the men wear tights or, more accurately, silk stockings. No there were no pilate classes and they weren’t dancers. In the 16th century what made a man beautiful were his legs and particularly shapely calves. This was so important that when Erik XIV tried to arrange a marriage with Elizabeth I of England he created this portrait with the hope that she would be so smitten with his appearance that it would seal the deal. In order to hedge his bets he decided that one of the stable boys had the nicest legs in the castle and had the painter replace his legs with the boy’s. Queen Elizabeth didn’t take the bait but she did keep the portrait.

Charles IX has a comb-over that would put Trump to shame. He braided the side bits and then fashioned them into a cross to express his Catholic devotion.

This Rune Stone was erected in the 11th century to honor Ingvar the Far-Travelled. At least twenty-six Ingvar Runestones refer to Swedish warriors who went out with Ingvar on his expedition to Russia, down the Volgar River and on to the Middle East to war against the Saracens.

The inscription reads;

They fared like men far after gold and in the east gave the eagle food. They died southward in Serkland.

To give the eagle food is to kill your enemy.

The Wendi Files 2018.2

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This End Is Near

As we approach the end of this year’s sojourn, let’s catch up on the antics of my pesky compadre.

The Alte Museum in Berlin, Germany

Central Station, Amsterdam, NL

Staatliches Museum in Schwerin, Germany

At NMOMA in Edinburgh, Scotland

National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh, Scotland

The Monument, Leipzig, Germany

Amsterdam, NL

KrollerMuller, NL

Fraser Castle, Scotland

Culross, Scotland

Crathes Castle, Scotland

Vintage Market in Leipzig, Germany

“Aperol Spritz” at Cospudener See, Leipzig, Germany

Foam Galley Amsterdam, NL

Simpson shoes in Leipzig, Germany

With Helmut Newton in Berlin, Germany

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden, Germany

Amsterdam, NL

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden, Germany

Amsterdam, NL

Foam Gallery in Amsterdam

Edinburgh, Scotland

And a hearty farewell. See you all next time.

Schwerin – the Florence of the North

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Schwerin

This lovely storybook city in Northern Germany is referred to as the Florence of the North. The capital of the state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommen, Schwerin has a population of about 150,000. It is surrounded by lakes, the largest of these being the Schweriner See, the third largest in Germany.

City Market Square

At the end of World War II, Schwerin was taken by United States troops. It was then turned over to the British on June 1, 1945. One month later, on July 1st, it was handed over to the Soviet forces, and the British and American forces pulled back from the line of contact to the predesignated occupation zones.

Schwerin was then in the Soviet Occupation Zone which was to become the German Democratic Republic (GDR). After reunification in 1990 it once again became the capital of the state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommen.

The Trace of the Lion Monument

This monument on the Market Square in Schwerin was built in 1995 by the controversial German sculptor Peter Lenk. It commemorates the 800th anniversary of the death of the city’s founder Heinrich the Lion. During his lifetime, Henry, Duke of Bavaria and Saxony, was one of the most powerful men in his region of the world. He founded the city of Schwerin in 1160, Munich in 1157 and Lübeck in 1159. During his reign, he ruled over a territory that reached from the coasts of the North and Baltic Seas all the way to the Alps.

The Trace of the Lion Monument – Stock Photo

The nearly 15-foot-tall monument features a lion, Henry’s heraldic animal. The sides show curious scenes associated with Henry’s life. The most bizarre scene depicts the duke riding through a gauntlet of people flashing their buttocks. Legend has it that when Henry arrived in the town of Bardowick, its contemptuous residents received him with their pants pulled down to reveal their bare behinds in an expression of anger at the Duke’s punitive trade policy that promoted Schwerin and Lübeck as important trading places and caused Bardowick to lose it’s prestige.

The Trace of the Lion Monument

Schloss Schwerin – Schwerin Palace

Stock Photo

The first records of a Slavic fort at this small island date from AD 973. In 1160, the fort became a target of Henry the Lion. The Slavs destroyed the fort before leaving but Henry recognized the strategic importance of the location and immediately started building new defenses. He also had the first foundations of the city of Schwerin laid the same year. In 1167, Henry gave the County of Schwerin to his vassal Gunzelin von Hagen, who formed a ducal hereditary line that lasted until the revolution of 1918 which resulted in the abdication of the Grand Duke.

Schwerin Palace

SchwerinCastle

Schwerin Palace – The Throne Room

The shelves that surround this beautifully paneled room are supported by individually craved animals.

Petermännchen ,“Little Peterman”

Every good castle has to have a ghost. Meet Petermännchen.

Petermännchen – “Little Peterman” – Quid Si Sic “What If So”

This good-natured household spirit is only a few feet tall, is often described as carrying many keys, roaming through the vaults and tunnels underneath the castle, unlocking doors as he goes. He has a cavalier look with a stylish moustache, wearing a waistcoat, riding boots with spurs and a feathered hat. He is said to carry a lantern and sword and is the keeper and watchman of the castle, rewarding those who are honest and good. Conversely he will punish or drive away thieves and intruders. To do so Petermännchen will cause a nuisance or play pranks, crashing and banging through the night. He also wakes soldiers who have fallen asleep on their watch in order to save them from being punished.

The Winter Room

The ceiling decoration in the Winter Room is made of paper mache and covered with three millimeters of gold foil. The builders discovered that paper mache was far superior to paster or stone carving. It’s faster, lighter, cheaper and can be pressed into molds so the designs are infinitely repeatable.

The Winter Room

Queen Luisa of Prussia

This beautiful portrait of Queen Luisa of Prussia hangs in the Winter Room and was painted in 1812 by W. Temite from a drawing made on her deathbed. The covered hands and palm fronds in the veil would have indicated to viewers that the portrait was posthumous.

Queen Luisa of Prussia

Albrecht II

I’ve always insisted that no matter how peculiar some folks seem to look there had to be some point in the day when they caught sight of their own reflection and thought, “Yea, I look pretty cool.”

Albrecht II

I’ll bet the pliers hanging from his waist were to help get in and out of that getup.

Albrecht II – Detail

The Staatliches Museum

Staatliches Museum

The Staatliches Museum Schwerin (State Museum Schwerin) was established in 1882 and is nationally known for its medieval collections well as one of Europe’s most significant collections of French-American artist Marcel Duchamp.

Staatliches Museum

Besides the Alte Meisters (Old Masters), we are here primarily for the GDR Show.

Hinter dem Horizont – Beyond the Horizon …
GDR art from the collections of the Staatliches Museum Schwerin

Schwebendes Liebespaar (Floating Lovers) – Wolfgang Mattheuer – 1970

The exhibition brings together around 100 paintings, drawings, graphics and sculptures some maintaining the prescribed ideologies of the times, others not so much. Here’s just a few.

Bildnis Karl Michel (Portrait of Karl Michel) – Clemens Gröszer – 1988/1989

Der Fotograf Dieter Schmidt (The Photographer Dieter Schmidt) Volker Stelzmann – 1975

Christine – Volker Stelzmann – 1974

The Bitterfeld Way

Artists were called upon to seek out their subject matter in factories or in the countryside. Proximity to the working populace was a programmatic specification of the cultural policy.

“In our time, a contribution to socialist art must consist primarily in encouraging the working people of socialist society to actively shape their lives.”

Fischer und Studenten (Fishermen and Students) – Konrad Homberg -1963/1964

Aufbau der Stalinalee (Construction of the Stalinalee) – Hedwig Holtz-Sommer – 1952

Schweinemeister Richard Thieß (Pork Master Richard Thiess) – Carl Hinrichs -1963

Junger Bauarbeiter (Young Construction Worker) – Walter Howard – 1964/1965

“The working day seems to be approaching its end. The excitement at the prospect of knocking off is unmistakable. This image, marked by optimism and a lust for life, can be understood as a metaphor for the dawning of a new age.”

Jugendbrigade im Aufbruch (Youth Brigade On The Move) – Carl Hinrichs -1962

On Gorbachev’s Reforms In The Soviet Union

“Incidentally, if your neighbor redid the wallpaper in his apartment, would you feel obliged to redo the wallpaper in your apartment as well?”

Jean-Baptiste Oudry – An Alte Meister

Oudry was a much favored 18th century French painter that specialized in animals in conflict, but also had a keen eye for the historical significance of many of these amazing creatures.

Rhinozeros (Rhinoceros) – Jean-Baptiste Oudry – 1749

The Indian rhinoceros “Jungfer Clara” came to Versailles and Paris in 1749. Oudry studied her at the fair at St, Germain. At the time very few people had seen one of these creatures. It must have seemed as alien to the 18th century viewer as a Martian. The life-size portrayal became a memorial to this magnificent rhinoceros.

Rhinozeros (Rhinoceros) – Jean-Baptiste Oudry – 1749

Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon

Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon, a French naturalist, mathematician, cosmologist, and encyclopédiste, produced a highly successful and widespread engraving of Clara’s portrait, which allowed a much larger audience to view this amazing animal.

These large scale paintings of animals at battle were highly favored in the royal houses and palaces of Europe in the 18th century.

Jean-Baptiste Oudry

Let’s finish with a great German artist.

Selbstbildnis/Self-Portrait – Paul Kuhfuss – 1925

Paul Kuhfuss, a classically trained Berlin artist, was hugely prolific and left an archive of over 5,300 works of art.

Herr Kuhfuss was also a man of conscience. In October of 1935, he was denounced by the Gestapo as member of the artist association “Berlin North”, for his resistance to the Nazi cultural propaganda and his defense of Jewish colleagues. Participation in art exhibitions in Berlin was no longer possible until after the war.

The Wendi Files – 2018.1

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People have been clamoring for the Wendi Files but rather then burden everyone with endless tales of blood-curdling debauchery, I thought we could start off slow and just let her never-ending wackiness unfurl at it’s own pace.

Happy In Haarlem, NL

The Singer-Laren Museum, NL

The National Museum of Modern Art – Edinburgh

Riddles Close – Edinburgh

Krollen-Muller, NL

Edinburgh

Charity Shop In Banchovy, Scotland

Cullen Bay, Scotland

The National Museum of Modern Art – Edinburgh

Enjoying the wildlife at Balmoral Castle

Edinburgh

With Barney In Edinburgh

Castle Fraser – The Top of the Tower

Castle Drum – Honey, we’re home.

Welcome To The Vintage Market At New College, Durham, U.K.

Buddying up to Victoria at Kelvingrove Museum, Glascow

Albatross Imitation At Kelvingrove Museum, Glascow

A Pub In Ballater

Balmoral Castle – She said, “You know we could rent a couple and race each other?”

New Friends in FoggieLoon, Scotland

Kirkcudbright

A Nap At Castle Drum

Wendi said she’d rest on the lawn at Castle Drum while I climbed the Tower. The groundskeeper came over and nudged her to make sure she hadn’t expired.

A House With A View

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The Castle Tour – Episode 6

This is what the Kennedy Clan calls home. Not bad.

Motto: “Consider the End”

Culzean Castle

The Kennedy Clan dates back to at least the 1200s when Cunedda, the Grim-headed, was sent to southwest Scotland to defend the region from sea raids.

They have absolutely no connection to the American Kennedys.

Culzean Castle

Culzean Castle was constructed by order of the 10th Earl of Cassilis. The castle was designed by architect Robert Adam and was built in stages between 1777 and 1792. The building and large drum tower were built to take full advantage of it’s location overlooking the sea.

Culzean Castle

The Power Plant

For the interiors, symmetry was the order of the day. Only one of these doors is functional. The left hand one is just there to balance the other and goes nowhere. There are maids bells on each side of the fireplace. The right one works, the left one is a dummy. This concept is seen in every room of the house.

The Lion & The Mouse

I love this 17th century painting by Paul de Vos. It depicts the final scene in the classic fable by Aesop. In the oldest versions, a lion is woken from sleep by a tiny mouse. The mouse begs for the lion’s forgiveness explaining that such lowly prey couldn’t possibly bring the lion any honor. When the roaring lion is trapped by hunters, the mouse remembers its clemency and gnaws through the ropes to free the giant beast. The moral being that mercy brings its own reward and there is no being so small it cannot help a greater. This fable has been reinterpreted by many different cultures the world over, some coming to much different moral conclusions.

Paul de Vos

Sir Thomas Kennedy

Thomas Kennedy

Accorded to the guide, Sir Thomas Kennedy was considered a real piece of work. Rumor has it that in an attempt to forcibly procure land from a neighbor, he and his henchman strapped the poor man to a spit and slowly roasted him until he agreed to sell. The man recovered and the sale was revoked, but the chief men of Ayr agreed to slay Sir Thomas Kennedy the first opportunity they got. On May 11 1602 he was murdered just outside the town of Ayr.

Artistic License

Everything in these mansions is designed to impress, even commissioned paintings. These two fine paintings by Alexander Nasmyth are no exception. The first shows the island of Ailsa Craig in the misty distance just off shore. The island is considerably further south and impossible to see from the house. The second painting shows Culzean Castle from the sea, sitting on a bluff that is at least three times as high as the real thing. Impressive, yes, accurate, hardly.

Culzean Castle From The North With Ailsa Craig By Alexander Nasmyth

Culzean Castle From The Sea By Alexander Nasmyt

For A Job Well Done

Dwight Eisenhower

The Kennedy family retained ownership until 1945 when they gave the castle and its grounds to the National Trust for Scotland with one stipulation. The apartment at the top of the castle was to be given to General of the Army Dwight D. Eisenhower in recognition of his role as Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces in Europe during the Second World War.

Ike first visited the castle in 1946 and stayed there four times, including once while President of the United States.

A Message For Our Times

“ If all that Americans want is security, they can go to prison. They’ll have enough to eat, a bed and a roof over their heads. But if an American wants to preserve his dignity and his equality as a human being, he must not bow his neck to any dictatorial government.”

Dwight Eisenhower.

While The Queen’s Away

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The Castle Tour – Episode 4

Balmoral Castle

Balmoral, Autumn, 1896 by Joseph Donovan Adam

Balmoral Castle sits just outside the little town of Ballater, the home of the Deeside train station where the royal family, until the 1960s, would arrive by train for their holiday time. The train station sustained serious fire damage and has just completed a £3million restoration project. The museum and shops it houses are scheduled to reopen by late summer. Ballater is a nice little town that is very dog friendly and has lots of small shops and a few good pubs.

Deeside Train Station

Ballater Library

The Balmoral Bar

Dogs are welcomed in all the pubs.

A place to tie your dog if you’d rather.

Golf has always been big in Ballater.

I love this glass.

Balmoral, the Queen’s over 50,000 acre country estate and holiday get-away, is surrounded by some amazing countryside of hills, mountains meadows, moors, valleys and rivers.

The River Dee

The Castle Itself

It really is an estate, in that, it does not meet the criteria previously stated in regards to castles. It’s more a huge house designed to look like a castle. Beyond a tower there are really none of the classic castle defense schemes in place. There are large windows on the ground floor, there are no narrow passageways to dissuade the advance of angry rebels, no uneven stairways to impede armor clad knights, no peep holes, lug holes or murder holes. It is a gentle welcoming place. The SWAT teams could probably just walk in the front door. Even though it is, a sort of, make believe castle, it is beautiful and packed with history. These attractions become somehow obligatory, like the Prime Directive, you’ve come this far you just have to go. To not go would be akin to traveling to Egypt and turning your back on the pyramids. The universe just won’t allow it. If nothing else, you get to breath the same air that the Queen breathes.

And talk about well organized, OMG. Absolutely nothing is left to chance, either in the running of the estate or in the welcoming of visitors. The surrounding forest and countryside is maintained like a huge carefully crafted garden. The forests are constantly culled of older dying trees to make way for new growth. Any spread of disease or infestation is closely monitored and eradicated. The wildlife population is strictly maintained at optimum levels. The appearance of any unwelcome species or predators that may disrupt this perfect balance is, like an invading army, quickly and aggressively dealt with. Wendi was thrilled to discover that the native red squirrels are protected and that the disease carrying grey squirrels have been pushed out.

The Queen’s Mailbox

The movement of visitors through the estate is just as efficient. Parking is off-site, after purchasing tickets at the gate you are offered the choice of a pleasant 15 minute walk through the woods to the visitor center/ cafe/ gift shop/ toilets/ movie presentation/ picture gallery/ historic vehicle garage /stables or you can ride in the small transit vehicle that leaves every 7 minutes, exactly. Once there, you can pick up a free audio guide, in virtually any language, and then you are on your own. You are free to wander well groomed grounds, gorgeous gardens and wondrous woodland paths.

As for the house, well, there will be no traipsing around the halls, bedrooms or kitchens of the inner sanctum, with or without shoes. Access is restricted to the ballroom where a very nice display of historic paintings and photos depict the royal family’s relationship with Balmoral, examples of beautiful Cairngorm crystals unearthed on the estate, some of the jewelry made with it and lots of pictures of the dogs. Unfortunately, absolutely no photos are to be taken in the ballroom, with or without the flash. This is a policy I have never quite understood. What do they imagine people might do with them? Perhaps it’s just a control thing.

The “battlemented” porte cochères, or “carriage porch”, is covered to protect guests from the frequent rain and snow.

The tower and “pepper pot turrets” are characteristic features of the Scottish Baronial style.

Pepper pot turrets

Side Notes:

Queen Victoria purchased the estate in 1852 after the previous owner choked to death on a fishbone.

The highly successful TV series the Crown, as well as, the films The Queen and Mrs. Brown figure events that happened at Balmoral, but none of them included footage actually shoot here.

The Red Squirrel

The Red Squirrel: A future in the forest // A Photo Book @Neil McIntyre

This photo is from a self-published book project by photographer Neil Mcintyre, the proceeds of which will help ensure a future for these amazing creatures in the UK. If you’d like to check out the book and project go to their Kickstarter page: The Red Squirrel – A Photo Book

What The Red Wants, The Red Gets

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The Castle Tour – Episode 3

Motto: “Grace, Me Guide”

Craigievar Castle, a pinkish harled castle named after a nearby hill, is one of the masterworks of Scottish baronial architecture.

The contrast of it’s massive lower story structure topped by the finely sculpted multiple turrets and gargoyles create this classic fairytale appearance. The castle is reputed to have been the inspiration for Walt Disney’s castle motif. The bottom section was built by the Mortimers who ran into financial troubles in 1610 and were forced to sell the lands and unfinished castle to William Forbes, who finished the top section between 1610 and 1626. His descendants occupied the castle until 1963, when it was turned over to the National Trust of Scotland.

Clan Forbes really didn’t make a lot of friends during the 16th century. They blackmailed the citizens of Aberdeen a yearly tun of wine, 252 gallons, for the fishings in the Don. The townspeople were having none of it, so when Arthur Forbes of Brux and his accomplices attacked Aberdeen in July of 1530 the citizens fought back. They brawled in the streets for over 24 hours. Fighting raged furiously throughout Aberdeenshire, and resulted in mutual massacres and murders. Several representatives of Aberdeen lodged a complaint with the King who cautioned the Forbes and their friends to show good behaviour towards the town of Aberdeen. But alas, memories seem to be centuries long here.

“Red” Sir John Forbes

“Red” Sir John Forbes (1636-1703) was reputed to be a tough laird and it was said that what “the Red wanted, the Red got”.

In 1668 he changed the coat of arms from three docile grey bears to three snarling dogs and adopted the new family motto, “Doe not vain sleeping dos.” or “Let sleeping dogs lie”.

The Forbes were staunch Protestants and the Gordons were committed Catholics so they had already been feuding for over 100 years before the Red came on the scene. There had been murders and unspeakable acts of violence on both sides. All of which added credence to a rumor that Red had happened upon a member of the rival Gordon clan bedding his daughter in the Blue Room and a sword fight ensued. Red forced him out the window at sword-point. Gordon fell 66’ to his death. Future generations have covered the window with a large headboard.

People still claim to hear Gordon’s footsteps walking in the Blue Room, re-enacting the moments prior to his death.

It’s a long way down.

Side Note: No pictures inside?? I don’t get it either.

When The Roadshow Comes To Town

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The Castle Tour – Episode 2

Let’s start with a wee gander.

Motto: “Courage Flourishes at a Wound”

Crathes Castle is a 16th century castle near Banchory that sits on land given to the Burnett of Leys family by King Robert the Bruce in 1323. It was held in that family for almost 400 years. Construction of the current tower house of Crathes Castle was begun in 1553.

This is a “harled” castle, which refers to an exterior building-surfacing technique when a pigment is embedded in the harled material, thus alleviating the need for repainting and results in a long-lasting weatherproof shield for a stone building.

The original timbered ceilings have all been restored.

The Laid’s Bedchamber

The Muses’ Room

The Scottish Renaissance painted ceiling in the Muses’ Room is truly amazing. Katherine Burnett’s coat of arms in the center of the ceiling indicates that is was Lady Katherine’s work room. The seven virtues would be better known today as the seven deadly sins.

Your Day In Court

The Court

The Laird, who had the power of “the Pit and the Gallows”, sat at this table with his scribe to his left. Prisoners were led in through a steel door hidden in the alcove on the far right. The accused would stand in front of the desk directly under the Coat of Arms which compelled them to speak nothing but the truth, although it was indicated to me that when you got this far your fate was pretty much sealed. After the verdict was read you were lead to either the pit, the dungeon, or to the gallows.

Grounds & Gardens

The grounds are truly amazing. A small army of committed gardeners work year round maintaining the separate walled gardens. Ancient topiary hedges of Irish yew, that date from 1702, are used to define the eight themed areas.

Scottish Humor

The guide in the Laid’s bedchamber showed us a small cupboard that served as the toilet. Of course, with no running water, it was essentially a bucket on the floor. He asked if there were any Englishmen present. A young couple proudly said yes and then the guide explained that the English had invented the toilet seat, but the Scots had improved it. “Aye, we put a hole in the top”.

Have A Mint

Rohays Burnett

In the 1960’s Rohays Burnett was paid £1000 to appear in an ad for After Eight chocolate mints. The photograph was taken at Crathes Castle. The finished ad appeared in Reader’s Digest with the tagline “No girl should resist temptation”. The advertisement was pulled when the headmistress of one of the country’s leading private girl’s schools complained that the ad was a bad influence on her girls and completely inappropriate coming from Rowntrees, a Quaker company.

Antique Roadshow Comes To Town

We made it to Crathes Castle just in time to take part in the Antique Roadshow. We feel very fortunate as this was the only show in Scotland this year. There were a lot of people but it never felt overcrowded.