Category Archives: Europe

Market Mania

Quick Currency Conversion

Quick Currency Conversion

My wife is flea market crazy. I don’t mean that she likes or is slightly interested in flea markets. Oh no, she’s completely and totally bonkers, nuts, out of her ever lovin’ skull, just can’t get enough of, crazy about flea markets. She has dragged me to the most God awful, disgusting, trashy yard sales, jumble sales, boot sales, garage sales and impromptu street markets in broken down Grange Halls, dilapidated industrial sites, abandoned warehouses, trash strewn vacant lots, very scary dead end streets and deserted parking garages in every city we have ever visited just so I can have the immense pleasure of gazing upon and fondling acres of other people’s useless and discarded junk.

Junk

Budapest has proven to be an exception to this otherwise nightmare scenario. Wendi has coerced me into two flea markets here and, I have to admit, they are terrific. Big, sprawling old school Markets, untouched by the tidal wave of cheap third world tshirts and trinkets. These are Markets were you can still find hidden gems and long forgotten items for a bygone era. Exactly the kind of Markets that made them popular to begin with.

Our first stop was at the Szechenyl Market is the middle of the large city park. The smaller of the two, Szechenyl has a bit of a yard sale feel but was still really interesting.

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Will you hurry up!

Will you hurry up!

Have to get one of these.

Have to get one of these.

Our last visit was at the Ecseri Market and it is the pièce de résistance. Located in the suburbs southwest of Budapest, getting there required two Metro transfers and a 20 minute bus ride, but was well worth the effort. A truly terrific treasure trove.

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Ecseri Market

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Wash Station

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Better hurry, this kind of market is rapidly disappearing.







The Secessionists

Take my word for it, Secessionist Art is really cool. It was one of the Art Nouveau disciplines that was popular between 1890 and 1910 and slightly predates Art Deco and was huge in Budapest. This modernist artist group included the likes of Gustav Klimt and Karoly Lotz,  They were renegades who separated from the support of official academic art and its administrations during this period. 

The Kiss - Gustav Klimt

The Kiss – Gustav Klimt

Woman Bathing - Kaloty

Woman Bathing – Karoly Lotz

Budapest, like both Berlin and Vienna, was a hot bed for this new and exciting art movement. Some of the country’s most famous architects designed buildings in this style. Some of them were inspired by traditional Hungarian decorative designs, Transylvanian traditions, or Far East (Indian or Syrian) styles.

One of our favorites is the Museum of Applied Arts, designed by Odon Lechner and Gyula Partos from 1893 – 1896. It is the third oldest applied arts museum in the world. It is currently showing a very exciting exhibit of Hungarian Posters from the 1920s called Bolder Than Painting.

AppliedArts11

AppliedArts12

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AppliedArts10

AppliedArts9AppliedArts8AppliedArts6AppliedArts5AppliedArts4AppliedArts3AppliedArts1More Art Nouveau Architecture


Budapest – Our First Look Around

Budapest is a great big, busy and exciting city. It’s the capital and largest city in Hungary, and one of the largest cities in the European Union, with a metropolitan population of 3.3 million.

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View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

Budapest is a very beautiful place that is ranked as the most liveable Central and Eastern European city on EIU‘s quality of life index, “the world’s second best city” by Condé Nast Traveler, “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes, and the 9th most beautiful city in the world by UCityGuides.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

The Chain Bridge

The Chain Bridge

We’ve rented a great little apartment, Liesel/Pierre, in a historic building at Szervita ter 5 in the center of downtown Budapest.

Szervita ter 5

Szervita ter 5

Through here.

Through here.

Across the courtyard.

Across the courtyard.

We're on the top floor.

We’re on the top floor.

Top floor.

Top floor.

And we're there.

And we’re there.

Come In To The  Liesel/Pierre.

Now a walk around the neighborhood.

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Parizsi Utca

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Egyetemi Templom

Szervita ter

Szervita ter 9

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Szerb Utca

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Vaci Utca

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Veres Palne Utca

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Eizsebet ter

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Karpatia at Ferenciek tere 3-5

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Deák Ferenc tér

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Piarista Koz

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Petofi Sandor Utca

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Chocolate Shop

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Fat Mo’s Speakeasy

The Central Market is one of Budapest’s great institutions. It’s cavernous and bustling and filled with food, clothes, gifts, wine, a great lunch and all things Hungarian.

The Central Market

The Central Market

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Budapest59

 


The Wendi Files – Spanish Edition

Everyone seems to enjoy peeking in on what Wendi’s up to and I guess that includes me, seeing I’m her resident stalker and personal paparazzi. So here’s the Spanish Edition, not quite as quirky as Holland and certainly not as inebriated as Ireland, but wacky nonetheless.

Benicassim Train Station

Benicassim Train Station

This way

Right this way to Morella Castle.

Madrid.

Madrid.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

Nice tomatoes.

Nice tomatoes.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar

With the Giants in Morella.

With the Giants in Morella.

The Alhambra

The Alhambra

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Moving fast in Cordoba

Moving fast in Cordoba

Hey down here.

Hey, down here.

At the winery in El Ceigo

At the winery in El Ceigo

Posing at the Monastery.

Posing at the Monastery.

There's wine on the way in Valencia.

There’s wine on the way in Valencia.

Making new friends at the Parade.

Making new friends at the Parade.

 Waiting for me at IVAM.

Waiting for me at IVAM.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Dress shop window.

Dress shop window.

See the blisters

See the blisters

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Our Spanish adventure is done. We’re off to Budapest tomorrow. See you there.



Morella Castle

Morella Castle

Morella Castle

The medieval walled town of Morella is in El Maestrat, a lonely upland region situated equidistant between the kingdoms of Valencia and Aragon. The fan shaped town surrounds the base of the castle hill and is full of steep streets and narrow passageways.

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Morell and Bullring

Morella

Morella

St Joan’s steps run straight up the hill through the entire town to the Church of Santa Maria la Major just below the castle.

St Joan's Steps

St Joan’s Steps

Fairly new 1922

Fairly new 1922

The town is dotted with small devotional altars.

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Altar6

Altar3

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

Houses have plaques to commenirate past notable residents.

Houses have plaques to commemorate past notable residents.

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Door Of the Disciples

The Door Of the Disciples

The Castle has been described as a three layer cake. It’s streaks of calcareus rock and clay store water, which enabled the castle to withstand long sieges.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

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The final passage to the top.

The final passage to the top.

Behind this door is a two story cell that was used to house captured officers or dignitaries. Deluxe accommodations of a sort.

Officer's Cell

Officer’s Cell

This is the view from the parade grounds at the very top of the castle and the main reason it is here.  Commanding a view of Querol pass, the main route between the coast and the River Ebro, nobody, no how, will be sneaking up on you and nobody will be crossing the valley without your permission.

View from the top.

View from the top.

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Morella’s Miracle

There is a house on the Calle de la Virgen where St Vincent Ferrer is said to have performed a miracle in the 15th century. A housewife was so upset at having no meat to offer the Saint that she cut up her son and added him to the stew. When Saint Vinny heard this he reconstituted the boy except for his little finger, which the mother had eaten while tasting the meal.

And they all lived happily ever after.

Except the son, of course, who never spoke to his mother again.






Benicassim

Benicassim Train Stop

Benicassim Train Stop

The name, Benicassim, is derived from the Banu Qasim tribe, a segment of the Kutama Berbers, that settled the area during the 8th century Moorish conquest of Spain, although none of the original history survives. With a population of 18,098, the town is a beach resort who’s main economic activity comes from tourism. Benicassim has some of the most important artificial beaches in Europe and is famous for the music festivals FIB and Rototom SunSplash, which flood the town with thousands of visitors in July and August.

Vormar Beach

Vormar Beach

East of Benicassim

East of Benicassim

Benicassim has 6km of white sand beaches and a great promenade. Promenade

Grass Umbrellas

Grass Umbrellas

Things

Things

WC

WC

The eastern end of the promenade is lined with villas from the late 19th and early 20th century.

VillaVictoria

The Villa Victoria. Renowned photographer Cartier Bresson is reputed to have spent a summer here.

VillaPons

Villa Pons

VillaPaquita

Villa Paquita

VillaAmparo

Villa Amparo

Tree

A little more thought might have gone into the placement of this tree?

The western end of the beach is dominated by high rise  buildings from the 60s and 70s.

Edificio Helena

Edificio Helena

The Rambla

The Rambla

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The ”Vía Verde” is a 5.5 km cyclist and walking coastal route that shows a natural rugged coast with beautiful coves and cliffs between the resort towns of Benicassim and Oropesa.

Benicasim

Vía Verde

 This is clearly a Catholic nation. The saints seem to peek at you around every corner. Almost all the heritage sites have their roots in the church one way or another.

Santa Agueda

Santa Agueda

La Purisima Concepcion

La Purisima Concepcion

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Altar7

Roadside Altar

That been said, we only bumped into one festival. We noticed on Saturday that the police had stopped all street parking downtown and barricaded off all the side streets. By Sunday morning they were covered with palm frond designs.

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By noon all the bells started to ring, they struck up a dirge and the procession began.

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Parade7

Lighting candles

Lighting candles

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On a lighter note, a couple odds and ends.

As De Copas Delivery Truck

As De Copas Delivery Truck

This some kind of sealant. We've seen it on quite few  buildings.

Valencia

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Plaza del Ayuntamiento

Valencia is a great city. It’s very old, founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC, Valencia has grown into Spain’s third largest city with a metropolitan area population of around 2.3 million.

Although it doesn’t feel like a huge place. The historic center has a very small city vibe with wide boulevards linked together by small streets and pedestrian passageways filled with traditional cafes, tabernas and specialty shops. A lot of the sidewalks in the city center are marble and, boy howdy, they feel good under foot.

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City Hall and Plaza del Ayuntamiento

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City Hall

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Plaza de la Riena and the Miguelete, the Cathedral Bell Tower.

Tower

Santa Catalina

Street Band

Street Band

Balconies

Even the underside of the balconies are tiled.

Valencia14 ValenciaSq Valencia22 Valencia21HorchateriaAt the end of the 15th century the Silk Exchange (Llotja de la Seda) or La Lonja was erected as the city became a commercial emporium that attracted merchants from all over Europe.

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La Lonja

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La Lonja’s vaulted ceiling.

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La Lonja’s guilded ceiling.

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La Lonja’s gothic windows.

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La Lonja

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La Lonja’s courtyard

Estacion del Norte is the city’s main train station. Fast, easy and filled with some great tile work.

Estacion del Norte

Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

Plaza Redonda is a lovely circular market traditionally used to sell lace, fabric and millinery goods.

Plaza Redonda

Plaza Redonda

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Plaza Redonda

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Plaza Redonda

Just a few loose ends.

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This translates to “particular pitch”?

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Filiberto Leon’s Watches

PO_Slots

Main Post Office Mail Slots

Valencia21Valencia8 Valencia3And finally, this is Manolo Montoliu standing proudly outside the Plaza de Toros, Valencia’s Bullring.

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo was a bullfighter and flagman who was killed on May 1, 1992 by the bull Cabatisto in the bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Seville. You know what they say about messing with the bull… See for yourself.

Bullfighting is still very popular in Spain and people line up here to purchase tickets for upcoming spectacles.

 

 

Graffiti – Valencian Style

We Only Fight For The Future

We Only Fight For The Future

Graffiti is pretty much everywhere here. The highways and railway lines are completely covered with “tagging”. That’s when someone paints their name or “handstyle” everywhere they can find an open space. This type of graffiti clings to underpasses, bridges, abandon buildings, old silos and crumbling walls. Anywhere the author can work unmolested for a sufficient length of time.

Tom

Tom

El Puig

El Puig

Sent Blacky

Sent Blacky

There seems to be some loose rules around these things. For example, writing over someone else’s tag is a sign of disrespect and could ignite a whole “tagging war” or too closely copying someone else’s style would be considered déclassé. I tend to think of this style as vandalism and the province of unemployed youth. Although, they are certainly ambitious in their scope, application and placement. We have seen some that was 80’ off the ground on the side of a 10 story building. To me, this cartoonish three dimensional block type all seems to be a variation on the same theme.

Sagunt

Sagunt

I’m intrigued by the more illustrative style, primarily for it’s cleverness and artistic acumen. Although, I suppose that depends on whether or not it’s your building they’re painting on.

Benny

Benny

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red Riding Hood

Swing

Swing

Winky

Winky

I See You

I See You

Clown Cones

Clown Cones

No Bullfighting

No Bullfighting

Eyeball

Eyeball

Vertigo

Vertigo

Open Door Here

Open Door Here

I have no idea!

I have no idea!

 

Tossa de Mar

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My good friend and spiritual advisor Big Dog Beller has been telling me for years to go to the Costa Brava and stay in Tossa de Mar. We finally made it and he was right, of all the coastal resort towns we have seen, it is the most charming. A little remote, not too crowded, nice shopping district, some quaint family run restaurants, two small beaches and a terrific walled old town. The place has kind of an old South Beach feel, but with history. We even stayed at the Hotel Florida.

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The road winds northeast up the coast for about 30 km, hugging the shore and offering fabulous views of coves and inlets with the clearest water you have ever seen.

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CB17Tossa de Mar’s additional claim to fame is as the location of the 1951 hit movie “Pandora & the Flying Dutchman” starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. There are pictures all over town of Ava cavorting with the locals while Frank Sinatra, her husband at the time, maintains a somewhat jealous vigil on the activities. They have even erected a statue of her on the ramparts overlooking the town.

Poster

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

This is the Black Madonna. She’s the big attraction here. According to legend, the Black Madonna was discovered in the year 880 by some shepherds who had seen a strange light and heard music coming from a cave in the mountain. From then on the statue has remained on Montserrat Mountain and become one of the most famous pilgrimage sights in Spain. We waited in line for over an hour just to walk past.

The Black Madonna

The Black Madonna

In 1025, Oliba, Abbot of Ripoll and Bishop of Vic, founded a new monastery at the hermitage of Santa Maria de Montserrat. The little monastery soon began to receive pilgrims and visitors who contributed to the spread of stories of miracles and wonders performed by the Virgin.

Between French wars, world wars and civil war the monastery has suffered from destruction and abandonment numerous times over the centuries but continues to bounce back. Most notably, the Spanish Civil War saw the violent suppression of the Abbey of Montserrat. Of the 278 priests and 583 religious men and women killed in Catalonia by Republican forces, 22 were monks of the Abbey of Montserrat. 

During the rule of Francisco Franco, the Abbey of Montserrat was seen as a sanctuary for scholars, artists, politicians and students. Franco’s men were often waiting for wanted people a few miles down the road.

Today, Montserrat’s modernization appears to be complete.

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

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Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

There are miles of candles.

There are miles of candles.

Everyone takes their picture in front of the Basillica with hands raised. I’m not sure what that’s about.

Picture taking

Picture taking

Lining up the shot.

Lining up the shot.

Trollys in Montserrat

Trolleys in Montserrat

Mailbox

Mailbox

Situated atop the craggy pinnacle of Montserrat Mountain, the sheer scale and splendor of the place is jaw dropping. There are funiculars to the various peaks and hiking trails linking it all together.

View From The Funicular

View From The Funicular

View from the train.

View from the train.

Wendi at St. Joan's peak.

Wendi at St. Joan’s peak.

Monistrol de Montserrat

We stayed in the village of Monistrol de Montserrat and took the train up from there. Of course, the more adventurous can spend the day hiking up the mountain in true pilgrim style.

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

The streets in Monistrol are so narrow that people have to scurry into doorways to let vehicles pass.

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

Out of the way.

Out of the way.

A little too tight.

A little too tight.