Category Archives: Europe

Fun For Foodies

When traveling you are forever comparing everything to home. What do people here do differently then we do? We love food markets. They are a quick overview of what locals eat and what they call everyday things we are very familar with. Also, how other people combine things we would never think to put together. For example, I’ve discovered you can drop a fried egg on just about anything from a hamburger to a pork chop to a plate of spaghetti.

One of the things we have discovered that the Spanish do really well is the urban mercado. We have been to four so far, two in Madrid and two in Valencia, and they have all been exceptional. Mercados are very busy places where people congregate to socialize and purchase every kind of vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, spice, nut, cheese or wine imaginable. And a thousand other things you never even thought of. Most have small counters where we can purchase coffee or a drink as well as tapas and small samples of just about anything.

The Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid is a little spendy but a great place for lunch.

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

The Mercado San Anton, also in Madrid, is in the middle of the trendy gay district and is a huge social gathering spot with terrific tapas and wine vendors.

Mercado San Anton in Madrid

The Mercado Colon in Valencia is the swankiest of the markets we went to. Recently renovated, it is mostly flower vendors and small stalls run by fancy restaurants.

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

By far the most exceptional Mercado we visited was the Mercado Central in Valencia. It is huge and filled with everything you never imagined you wanted.

Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Iberian ham can be very expensive. Serrano ham is a little more affordable.

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I’ve seen about 20 varieties of shrimp.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham haunches at the Mercado Central in Valencia

These ham haunches can cost between $120 and $300.

Very scary fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I am definitely not eating this.

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More snacks at the Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Seafood snacks at Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Welons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Melons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Madrid

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Madrid is the capital and largest city of Spain with a population of roughly 3.3 million. This makes it the third largest city in the European Union. Its influences in politics, education, media, arts, entertainment, environment, fashion, science and culture all contribute to its status as one of the world’s major global cities.

We were lucky enough to find a great little hotel called Lapepa in the middle of the Museum District that couldn’t possibly have been better. It was clean, quiet and walking distance from just about everything we wanted. Paula and and whole staff were friendly and amazingly helpful.

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Villa Real

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a big city and can be a little intimidating until you get your bearings. We have come to love the “Hop On Hop Off” City Bus Tours. They are a smokin’ deal. For only 8 euros you can ride all day and get on and off anywhere it stops. It gives you a great feel for the layout and stops at all the major attractions. The upper deck is open air so on a nice day they can’t be beat. After just one rotation you feel like you have a pretty good idea where everything is and where you’d like to return.

Get on the bus Gus

Banca de Espana

Puerta del Sol

Congreso de los Diputados

Torres de Colon

Torres de Colon

Cervantes and Don Quixote

Queen Isabella

Santa María la Real de La Almudena

El Palacio Real de Madrid

El Palacio Real de Madrid

El Palacio Real de Madrid

The Metropolis Building

We saw so much great art in Madrid it was overwelming. The three big hitters are the Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Museo Reina Sofia. There’s a great discount pass online, The Paseo del Arte card, that includes all three and gives you a scheduled admission to the Prado, which means no waiting in line. There are also, at least, 50 smaller museums that are equally outstanding. You could spend a month here just looking at art.

Wendi was adament about going to the El Rastro street market, considered by many as the largest street market in Europe and it is huge. With an estimated 3500 market stalls it seems to stretch for miles down little streets and alleys. And it is packed tighter then a can of sardines. And hang onto your panties. I caught two different people trying to reach into my camera bag. I wasn’t particularly concerned as there wasn’t anything in it but an old map, still it’s a little disconcerting. That been said, we did have a great time. There is a lot of excitement and a million things to look at. I do have to offer one caveat though. Cheap t-shirts dominate. Like almost every street market we’ve been to, if China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Korea and Guatemala stop making cheap crap this place will be closed up tight in no time.

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

Making friends at El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

The frame street at El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

The Tabernas are pretty cool too. They’re a little like Spanish Sushi Bars in that the top of the bar is lined with all sorts of little dishes from olives to small open faced sandwiches that run from 1 to 5 euros each. The barman gives you a drink and you just point at what you want and they tally it up when you’re done. It’s affordable and great fun, very social with people coming and going and everyone talking at once.

The girls at Taberna Txakolina on Calle Cava Baja

The Saturday we were in Madrid was the annual Gay Pride Parade and it dominated the entire museum district of the city. There were thousands of partiers in the streets from all over Europe. By 10am police were rerouting traffic, closing down major intersections and roundabouts for a 6pm parade. All the major fountains were turned off to keep overheated partiers out of them. The parade consisted of hundreds of LGBT groups and organizations from every city in Spain. Cross-dressers were turned into minor celebrities and graciously had their pictures taken with anyone who asked. The crowd had a ball.

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Gay Pride in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

The Troops Are Mobilizing Around Vilafames

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Vilafames

Vilafames is a picturesque town in the interior of the province of Castellón.

Vilafames

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames With The Castle In The Distance

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames

The town, which has been declared of Spanish Cultural Interest, is topped by the ruins of an old Moorish castle that was conquered in 1233 by James 1.

Castle

This small town has three large churches. The most impressive being the Iglesia Parroquial.

Iglesia Parroquial

The town’s real claim to fame is the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés, a terrific little museum in a splendid XV century Gothic palace. Opened in 1972 by the renowned art critic D. Vicente Aguilera Cerni, it was the first museum dedicated to contemporary art in Spain. It is home to more than 500 artworks, spanning the various artistic currents from the Valencian artistic renewal of the twenties to the present. The artists exhibiting in the museum have been referred to as Spain’s artistic vanguard for the last 80 years, both nationally and internationally.

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

While I was editing these pictures it occurred to me that we are a little like the soldiers marching behind El Cid. Slowing moving over hardscrabble earth from one dusty narrow laned village to the next under the ever-present punishing glare of the Spanish sun. I also noticed that besides similarities there are some striking differences as well.

Like the 11^th century warriors of lore we have absolutely no idea where we are headed, but then they had El Capitan to point the way. We have Edith and you all know how well that’s working.

While the troops didn’t eat particularly well they did have a pretty good idea what it was. We too are foraging for food as we go, but haven’t found it necessary to slaughter any animals, just yet. On the other hand, we have had meals placed in front of us that have left us scratching our heads in bewilderment. I requested what I thought was a pork chop the other day and got a nicely garnished 2 pound lump of grilled fat. Can’t wait to have that again.

Unlike the defenseless peasants, we haven’t witnessed any decapitations or had to face any psychotic adversaries wielding swords. In the 21^st century the weapon of choice is the automobile. I have very nearly been run over twice now and been screamed and beeped at by half the population.

It isn’t just drivers though. Ticket sellers in train stations seem to find us extremely dim witted and annoying. By the time the train leaves the station we are so confused and anxiety ridden that we are certain we are on the wrong train, headed in the wrong direction and when the conductor checks our tickets he too will begin to yell at us and extricate us from the locomotive leaving us stranded at the next Podunk stop until we can find another ticket seller and begin the process anew.

But I exaggerate, this really hasn’t happened that many times.

Like soldiers trudging over the sun-baked plains of Aragon we have had to stop frequently to replenish our electrolytes. While the Knights of Vivar probably drank stale water from old goatskins we tend to consume copious quantities of cappuccino, cervasa and vino blanco. And, of course, there is the ever-present liter bottle of mineral water.

Water Stop

Very Limited Town Square Parking

Which brings me to my final observation. Prayer.

Saint Jude – The Patron Saint Of Lost Causes

People in the 11^th century prayed a lot. Besides issues involving the afterlife, they prayed for crops. They prayed that the marauding soldiers wouldn’t steal their crops and kill them all. They prayed for it to rain and they prayed for it to stop raining. They pretty much prayed for everything.

We pray too. We pray for bathrooms. Clean bathrooms. Oh yes, and parking, we pray for parking so we can get out of the car and go to the bathroom.

El Rullo – A nice little restaurant with a very clean bathroom.

Our prayers have been answered.

Peniscola

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We spent a toasty afternoon in Peniscola, a terrific little seaside city with a great beach and promenade. It was a hot day and the beach was covered with sunbathers and multicolored umbrellas for miles.

Peniscola Playa

Stock Image

The beach sits at the bottom of the old town which clings to a rocky promontory that is crowned with the city’s big attraction, the Castell del Papa Luna. The castle was built in the late 13th century by the infamous Knights of Templar, but really made it’s mark as the residence/hideout for Pope Benedict XIII, i.e. Papa Luna.

The Church of the Castle

Luna was named Pope during the Great Schism that split the Papacy in the 14th century, but was deposed in 1414. He lived here until he died in 1423 and complained about losing the job until the bitter end.

Papa Luna greets all visitors

Because of the Castle’s position, being surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean, some have called Luna “Pope of the Sea”.

From the ramparts towards the beach

Lighthouse from the main entrance

Chapel Door

To the top lookout

From the ramparts out to sea

From the ramparts south to the harbor

Across the Old Town

Peniscola’s fame was reinvigorated in 1961 when Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren arrived to film the epic spectacular EL Cid.

El Cid 1961

A little footnote for you film buffs. Sophia sued because her name is below Charlie’s. The suit read, “It is impossible to determine or even to estimate the extent of the damages which the plaintiff will suffer.” Maybe a whisper touchy?

My trusty companion braves the afternoon heat

Size Matters In Bilbao

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The Guggenheim Bilbao

We are in Bilbao, a medium sized industrial shipping port in Northern Spain. It’s an interesting little city whose core retains some real character. The real attraction though is the Guggenheim Museum. How exactly the Frank Gehry designed building ended up in Bilbao still eludes me but that’s neither here nor there. Its beauty and grace are without question. Since it’s completion this building has become an instant icon and the city’s star cultural attraction.

Guggenheim Entrance

There are two major exhibits in place now, retrospectives of both George Braque and Yoko Ono.

Braque, the early 20^th century abstract painter, is credited, along with friend Pablo Picasso, with being one of the founders of the cubist movement. The paintings are interesting and thought provoking, but the retrospective is a little like an art history lesson. Are there really enough art historians out there to draw huge crowds to Northern Spain?

The Yoko Ono retrospective shows work from 1963 to 2010. The problem I have with Yoko’s work is her. Like so many people my age, that are a little “stuck in the sixties”, she will always be the person that committed two unforgivably heinous crimes. She popularized the primal scream and broke up the Beatles. Now even if you can get past all that and learn to somehow appreciate what she does as an artist, does she really have the capacity to attract people from around the globe to this somewhat remote Basque city? I don’t think so.

What makes this place work is the sheer scale of it all.

Guggenheim Interior

Puppy by Jeff Koons

Richard Serra

Giant Tulips

Titanium Facade

Guggenheim Interior

Size really does matter at the Guggenheim in Bilbao..

Graffiti – Granada Style

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Those of you that have followed the blog for a while know that I have ambivalent feeling about graffiti. Sometimes I think that spray paint should be universally outlawed, but then, occasionally, you can’t help but smile.

Alicante

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Alicante is our favorite coastal city, so far! This historic Mediterranean port has a population of about 400,000. Since the 3rd century BC it has been invaded and conquered by cocky Carthaginians, rapacious Romans, vicious Visigoths, moody Moors, clobbering Castilians, volatile Valencians, rascally Republicans, nasty Nationalists and finally an Armada of Cruise Liners.

Invading Foreigners

The bustling core of the old city sits right on the waterfront and is full of wide palm tree shaded walking arcades, great historic buildings and a labyrinth of narrow streets and open air markets.

Marina

Explanade De España

Meat Lovers

Pension

Setting Up The Street Fair

That’s A Lot of Cheese

Alicante has two, not to be missed, art museums. Both El Museo de Bellas Artes Gravina (MUBAG) and the Museum of Contemporary Art of Alicante (MCAA) are terrific museums that are the perfect size, big enough to be really interesting and small enough to be experienced in a couple hours. And they’re free. They both house great Spanish collections and, like all great museums, the buildings themselves are terrific works of art.

El Museo de Bellas Artes Gravina

Necesita Usted Modelo by Fernando Canto

Museum of Comtempory Art Alicante

Assume The Position

Bye for now. We’re going to go drink a little.

Somebody’s Big Day

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Basilica of Santa Maria

I was walking around the Basilica of Santa Maria in Alicante when a BMW pulled up and unloaded the bride. I guess you have been a photographer far too long when you see a random wedding of complete strangers and you feel compelled to leap up and swing into action. I really couldn’t stop myself.

The Arrival and Last Minute Adjustments

Final Instructions

Here We Go.

I Do

Oropesa del Mar

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We have finally recovered from jet lag and have begun to explore the area. Took our first trip was to Oropesa, an interesting little seacoast city, which, like every other city in the region, is waiting with baited breath for the tourist season to start.

Oropesa del Mar

As you can see the beaches are deserted. It was a beautiful day and the only people frolicking in the sand were an elderly couple, one topless sunbather and two boys playing hooky.

Oropesa de Or

There are literally miles of beaches and locals assure me that in about three weeks every one of them will be packed like a can of sardines with all manner of British and German tourists. You’ll have a hard time finding space to spread out a towel.

Oropesa de Or

The southern coast of Spain has got to be Dean Martin’s spiritual home. Almost every bit of coast we’ve seen is lined with vintage high rise apartment complexes dating from the fifties to the early eighties.

The Las Vegas I

Sheets – Quilts – Towels – Shoes – Bags – Baggage

Bye for now. We’re going swimming.

Oropesa de Or

Hasta Luego.

No Turning Back

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Our 2014 home exchange has begun in earnest and I’ve decided that it’s a little like international skydiving. All the pictures and planning in the world won’t save you. You’re not exactly sure what you’ve gotten into until you’re plummeting towards earth at breakneck speed. In the end it’s just an act of faith. Regardless of any turbulence you encounter on the way down, you have to trust that the parachute will open and you’ll land softly on firm ground.

SeaTac – No Turning Back

This trip is no different. It began calmly enough. We met our fellow exchangers, Magda and Manolo, at SeaTac. A lovely couple, full of energy and rip roaring ready to go. After they treated us to dinner we exchanged hugs, set the GPS to home and sent them on their way.

Magda & Manolo

Then it was a hour through security, another hour at the gate and nine hours on Lufthana. We arrived in Frankfurt, Germany completely toasted, only to discover that Booking.com had us reserved for August 3rd instead of June 3rd. The story has both a good and bad ending. The good part was that the Hilton next door had a room, unfortunately it costs three times as much as the first room. Oh well, that’s the way the bee bumbles.

Frankfurt Airport

The next day’s flight to Valencia was perfect. Magda’s brother, Vicent, drove us to Benicasim and had us set up in no time. The only thing left to do now is recover.

The View From Our Apartment

BruceWPeterson Photography

Explore The World

Category Archives: Europe

Fun For Foodies

Madrid

The Troops Are Mobilizing Around Vilafames

Peniscola

Size Matters In Bilbao

Graffiti – Granada Style

Alicante

Somebody’s Big Day

Oropesa del Mar

No Turning Back