Category Archives: History

The Great Bicycle Coup d’état

bike22The Dutch don’t just love their bikes, they have embraced them on a level that borders on obsession. Don’t get me wrong I love bikes and think it’s amazing that they have incorporated bicycles into the fabric of their lives and created an incredibly healthy lifestyle.

There are some interesting stats about Dutch bike riders. A higher percentage of Dutch ride bikes then any other country. As of 2012 there were estimated to be 18 million bicycles or 1.3 per citizen old enough to ride. In the 4 years since, bike popularity has continued to grow tremendously. Some say that now there are as many as  2.9 bikes per Dutch citizen. With the exception of competitive riders, nobody seems to wear a helmet and yet they have less head injuries then anyone else. By 12 years old most children have been trained in the rules of the road and must pass a traffic exam to receive their Verkeersdiploma (traffic certificate).

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In cities 85% of all students commute to school on bikes and, for adults, over half of all journeys are made by bicycle. Now some towns have fietsstraats (bike streets) which are roads where bicycles are considered to be the primary and preferred form of transport and cars and other motorised vehicles are allowed “as guests”. There is even a growing trend towards a complete separation of bicycle routes from motor vehicle routes called the unravelling of modes. In 2012 the Hovenring, the first suspended bicycle roundabout in the world, was built over a large and busy road intersection, where before its construction cyclists had to cross busy roads.

By John Tarantino - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22228858

Hovenring By John Tarantino

So what have we learned? Well, they clearly love their bikes, are pretty good at operating them and are willing to invest in the infrastructure. But no, I’m afraid it goes way beyond that. This is a transportation revolution and in all revolutions there are winners and losers. The Dutch love of these two wheeled little devils coupled with their proficiency at using them has conspired to turn the Netherlands into a nation of Bike Hoarders. I know that sounds harsh, but the evidence is all around you. With 3 bikes per person and no storage, it’s like all that crap grandma has been hoarding for decades has moved out onto the sidewalk.

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Bikes are everywhere. In the cities they lean against most walls and are attached to every available vertical structure. All the train stations have bike parks designed, I’m assuming, for commuters. They have become impromptu bike storage yards filled with hundreds, if not thousands of bikes that never move. These mounds are starting to distort into strange shapes and juxtapositions as the once treasured objects, now discarded, become as intertwined and impenetrable as a bramble bush.

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This bike has been lying on it’s side for two weeks now. I want to pick it up but I’m curious how long it will stay there.

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Bicycles have seized control of both the sideways and the bike lanes.

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This Bloemendall resident told me that most of these bikes haven't moved in a yearend that she has to hunt for a spot everyday. She owns three bikes!

This Bloemendaal resident told me that most of these bikes haven’t moved in a year and that she has to hunt for a spot everyday. She owns three bikes!

Not only do they dominate the landscape, these low-tech transporters have managed to move up the food chain and have eclipsed both cars and pedestrians for supremacy of the roadways. Motorists are far more concerned about hitting a bicyclist then the rider is about being hit. This has a lot to do with the insurance laws. Unless the bicyclist intentionally runs into you the motorist is always at fault. Pedestrians are just left to fend for themselves while trying to dodge everything that moves. My wife is certain they’re trying to kill us slow moving, old school walkers. Accidentally stepping off the sideway into the bike lane is tantamount to suicide.

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Sure they look innocent enough with their shiny wheels and cute little saddle bags, but don’t be fooled. As this dominance has taken root the size, speed and diversity of the enemy has increased logarithmically. Now there are regular bikes, tantem bikes, electric bikes, mopeds, motor scooters, bikes with load carrying trailers, large box delivery bikes, recumbents, velomobiles (enclosed bike cars), large tricycles, bikes with multiple panniers , bikes with two baby holders and, remarkably, bikes with three baby holders and room for a dog and all are vying for control of the asphalt.

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Remember expressions like ” the pedestrian always has the right of way” or when crosswalks were safe passages through a busy hostile world? Not anymore, oh no!  There was a war and the pedestrians lost. If these madcap pedal powered warriors just didn’t hate us mere walkers so badly. Surely there’s room for all of us? So be careful out there and look in every direction. They really might be out to get you.bike7

Haarlem – Bulb City

haarlem26Haarlem is a great city in the Province of North Holland. Being the center of the tulip bulb growing district for centuries, it is nicknamed ‘Bloemenstad’, or “flower city”. With a population around 160,000 and a compact inner city, it’s small enough to explore and enjoy. Granted city status in 1245, it has a long and rich history.

Traditionally one of the the most powerful trading cities in Holland, during the 18th century trade shifted to Amsterdam and Haarlem turned into a bedroom community and summer resort with many workers commuting to the larger capital. In the long run this shift has allowed the historic old city center to remain relatively in tact.

Haarlem Central Station

Haarlem Central Station

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Haarlem Central Station

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

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Gravestenenbrug

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Hofje van Oorschot – An old folks home

Grote Markt

The Grote Markt is the center of town and abounds with cafes and shops of all kinds.

Stadhuis

Stadhuis

Grote Markt Cafe

Grote Markt Cafe

Grote Market - Grote Kerk

Grote Market – Grote Kerk

The Grote Markt - 1696

The Grote Markt – 1696

Frans Hals Museum

Frans Hals is probably the most celebrated Haarlem artist to emerge during the Dutch Golden Age and has his own museum to prove it.

Frans Hals Museum

Frans Hals Museum

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

The Ten Booms, a highly devote Christian family, were watchmakers during the second war world. They felt it their duty to help protect those in trouble and used their small house as a hiding place for Jews and Resistance fighters. These actions led to the death of the entire family, with the exception of the young Coorie, at the hands of the Nazi’s.

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

Up to six adults at a time had to squeeze into this hiding place.

Up to six adults at a time had to squeeze into this hiding place.

The roof of Coorie Ten Boom house provided the only fresh air for victims.

The roof of the Coorie Ten Boom house provided the only fresh air for victims.

The Teylers Museum

This was my favorite museum in town. The Teylers is a fascinating mix of early technology, fossils, astronomical equipment,16th & 17th century prints and drawings and great Dutch Golden Age paintings.

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

The Women

The Dutch love their women and well they should. Most are statuesque, self assured and highly educated. Maternity and family leave are hugely important issues here. The country is very close to pay equality and although there still isn’t complete sexual parity in top executive positions, they are rapidly getting there. It seems that strong female role models have always been revered here. Among them is:

Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer

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On December 11, 1572 the Spanish army began the siege of Haarlem. During the first two months of the siege, the situation was stable. The Spanish army was digging tunnels to reach the city walls while the defenders dug under them to destroy the Spaniards’ tunnels. By March 29, 1573 the situation worsened when the Spanish and Amsterdam Armies effectively cut off Haarlem from the outside world and began to starve them out. By July 13, 1573, after seven months of siege, the city reached an agreement with the Spaniards to open the city gates in exchange for amnesty and a ban on looting. After surrendering the Spanish reneged on the deal and began looting and slaughtered over 2000 of the city defenders.

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Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer leads the charge.

Following the siege, the name of Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer began to emerge. Diarists reported that the powerful widow helped defend the city and rebuild the defenses that had been destroyed by enemy cannon. One account mentions that Kenau and other women stood on the earthworks and threw burning tar wreaths onto the enemy who would leap into the river to douse the flames only to drown from the weight of their armor. Over time the legend of Kenau’s role has expanded to full-fledged soldier and commander of a small female army. She has been honored during every celebration of independence from Spain. But, separating fact from fiction in these matters is always difficult and her role in the siege has been the subject of much debate. Regardless, her personality must have been a fearsome thing. We do know for certain that after the war she resumed her trade as a wood  merchant importing lumber from Norway. When her captain was taken hostage by pirates she travelled north to negotiate his release and died at the hands of the same pirates.

Definitely the stuff of legend.

To The Manor Born

Capability Brown

Capability Brown

Capability Brown

Lancelot “Capability” Brown will forever be linked to these great mansions and is remembered as “the last of the great English 18th century artists to be accorded his due”, and “England’s greatest gardener”.   Mr. Brown’s influence was so great that the contributions to the English garden made by his predecessors are often overlooked.   During the height of his career It is estimated that Brown was responsible for over 170 gardens surrounding the finest country houses and estates in Britain.   He completely dominated landscape design in the 18th century and during the 1760s averaged commissions of about £740,000 a year.

“In Brown’s hands the house, which before had dominated the estate, became an integral part of a carefully composed landscape intended to be seen through the eye of a painter, and its design could not be divorced from that of the garden”

He was nicknamed “Capability” because he would tell his clients that their property had the “capability” for improvement.

The Manors

These estates were more then just big houses. They controlled the economy in villages, towns and even whole counties. Maintaining and operating these country cottages required hoards of housekeepers, legions of lawn men, battalions of butlers, cadres of cooks and a phalanx of farmers. But, after the World Wars, when the seemingly endless supply of underpaid workers dried up it became impossible to maintain this system any longer. I’m pretty sure this is where our whole notion of “trickle down economics” came from. Keep the rich folks happy and they will, in turn, provide low paid employment. Regardless of my cynicism, these homes are magnificent and thanks to the National Trust most have been saved for the nation and the world to enjoy. They represent the pinnacle of art and culture from a bygone era when civility, learning and social standing were paramount. Provided it wasn’t you that had to do the dusting.

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey was built as a priory in 1100 but, like most Catholic Orders, the Augustinian Canons were expelled in 1536 during the Dissolution of the Monasteries and all the good stuff was taken. Over the centuries it bounced around through a few owners until 1926 when Huddleston Broughton, having inherited a fortune from mining and railroads in America, bought the place. He started to renovate in earnest and began to amass a huge collection of beautiful furniture, artworks and statuary. Huddleston became the Baron Fairhaven in 1929. He never married and decided in the early 40’s that he would leave the Abbey and all it’s contents to the National Trust on his death. Which effectively meant that he spent his adult life collecting for the Trust.

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Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Another Baron Fairhaven – I’m sensing a theme here.

We grew up with a family dog named “Bungey”. In all these years I’ve never seen or even heard of another one until I met the Baron’s.

Bungey

Bungey

 

Blickling Estate

Blickley Hall

Blickley Hall

This magnificent Jacobean mansion located in Norfolk and covers more than 4,000 acres. Before it’s last private owner Phillip Kerr died in 1940 he helped build the National Trust and save hundreds of grand homes for future generations to enjoy. But even with his accomplishments Kerr is far from Blickley’s most famous resident. It is believed that Anne Boleyn, the future beheaded Queen, was born here sometime between 1501 and 1505.

Anne Boleyn

Anne Boleyn

Not to be forgotten, Anne returns every May 9th, the anniversary of her decapitation, dressed all in white, carrying her severed and dripping head. She arrives in a coach driven by a headless horseman and four headless horses. She glides through the hall, rooms and countless corridors until sunrise.

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Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle doesn’t have the turmultuous past of some of it’s counterparts and seems to be most famous as the filming location for the award-winning period drama Downton Abbey.

Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle

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Highclere Castle

The castle stands on the site of an earlier house, which was built on the foundations of the medieval palace of the Bishops of Winchester, who owned this estate from the 8th century. The original site was recorded in the Domesday Book.

Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle

Folly

Jackdaws Castle

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The Family Motto – “Only One Will I Serve”

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

This neoclassical country house was the residence of the Marquess of Bristol before being sold to the National Trust in the late 20th century. The Marquesses of Bristol have laid claim to this estate since 1467.

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

In 1956, the house, park, and contents were given to the National Trust in lieu of death duties. As part of the deal, a 99-year lease on the 60-room East Wing was given to the Marquess of Bristol. However, in 1998 the 7th Marquess of Bristol was a little strapped for cash and sold the remaining lease on the East Wing to the National Trust. He was succeeded by his half-brother Frederick Hervey, the 8th Marquess of Bristol. Freddy tried to buy back the remaining lease, but the Trust refused, thereby contravening the Letter of Wishes which states that the head of the family should always be offered whatever accommodation he chooses at Ickworth.

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Melford Hall

Melford Hall is an amazing estate in the village of Long Melford, Suffolk. The hall was mostly constructed in the 16th century, incorporating parts of a medieval building held by the abbots of Bury St Edmunds which had been in use since before 1065.

Milford Hall

Milford Hall

Milford Hall has had it’s share of trials and tribulations over the years. It was seized from the abbots during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Queen Mary gave it to Sir William Cordell who passed it via his sister to Thomas and Mary Savage. Both were serious Catholics at a time when the Civil War was getting momentum and people were choosing sides. The Savages backed King Charles 1 who would become the only British Monarch to be beheaded. Needless to say, it didn’t go well for the Savages. Thomas died in 1636 leaving Mary and their 13 children broke and considered traitors. Warrants were issued for Mary to answer for her family’s indebtedness. All her appeals were denied and she died in Debtor’s Prison. During the Stour Valley Riots of 1642 the house was attacked and the interiors were demolished by an anti-Catholic crowd.

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In February 1942 soldiers that were billeted at the hall broke into the West End to have some card games and a bit of a dance. They managed to set the whole wing on fire. It was gutted out and rebuilt after war retaining the Tudor brickwork exterior.

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In 1786 it was sold to Harry Parker, son of Admiral Hyde Parker and is considered ancestral seat of the Parker Baronets.

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Queen Elizabeth

Queen Elizabeth

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From the 1890’s Beatrix Potter was a cousin of the Parkers and was a frequent visitor to the hall.

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One of Beatrix’s favorite painting spots.

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham House and it’s 20,000 acres of land are in Norfolk, England. The site has been occupied since the Elizabethan era. In 1862, the hall was purchased by Queen Victoria at the request of the Prince of Wales. The house is privately owned by Queen Elizabeth II and is a Grade II listed country house: having  particularly important buildings of more than special interest.

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

The Royal Family Walks From The Main House To The Chapel Every Christmas. Chapel

The Royal family walks from the main hall to the Chapel for services every Christmas.

Sandringham - The Family Chapel

Sandringham – The Family Chapel

James Brown

James Brown

Home at last.

Home at last.

Wimpole

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

The house, begun in 1640, and is the largest house in Cambridgeshire. The 3,000 acres of parkland and farm were “naturalised” by Capability Brown in 1767.

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

In 1938, Capt. George Bambridge and his rich wife, Elsie, daughter of Rudyard Kipling, purchased it after having been tenants since 1932. They used the inheritance left to them by her father, and the royalties from his books, for the long-needed refurbishment of the house and grounds. When Elsie died in 1979 she left the property to the National Trust.

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

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Wimple Estate – Gasolier

Wimple Estate - Family Chapel

Wimple Estate – Family Chapel

Wimple Estate - Servant Stairwell

Wimple Estate – Servant Stairwell

Useless But Interesting Fact #13

This seven drawer high boy dresser has a draw for intimates and small items for each day. Your fancy Sunday garments go in the uppermost draw. Hence the expression “Top Draw”.

Wimple Estate - Dresser

Wimple Estate – Dresser

The Case of the Missing Martyr

The Strange Tale of St Edmund – Mayhem, Murder and Martyrdom In East Anglia

In 869 the Viking’s Great Heathen Army descended on East Anglia and demolished everything in their path.  Apparently King Edmund refused to renounce Christ.  On the orders of Ivar the Boneless and his evil brother Abba, the King was whipped, shot with arrows, stabbed with spears and finally beheaded.

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I say apparently because almost nothing is known about Edmund’s real life, the Viking Army having destroyed any contemporary evidence of his reign.  Legend has it that after his decapitation, the head was taken into the forest by a wolf that kept strangers at bay until the Monks could retrieve the head and bury it with his body.

It is said that wolves have not been seen in East Anglia since that day.

The Wolf Stands Guard Over St. Edmund's Severed Head

The Wolf Stands Guard Over St. Edmund’s Severed Head

Upon exhumation it was discovered that all the arrow wounds on his corpse had healed and his head was reattached and his skin was still soft and fresh as a daisy. A Saint for sure.

In later years writers realized the inherent PR value of having no factual record of Edmund’s reign and quickly began producing accounts of a life filled with miracles. But creating a Saint out of whole cloth is no easy task and just like a great rock band it requires outrageous tales and a lot of touring. The Benedictine Monks lugged the bejeweled box containing his remains all over Southern England, regaling tales of heroic deeds and miracles to anyone with a few coins. It is said that between 900 and 1000 AD, Edmund’s remains did far more traveling then he ever did during his lifetime. They understood very well that saints mean pilgrims and pilgrims mean money.

The Abbey Tower

The Abbey Tower

During the 11th century the shrine at Bury St Edmunds became one of the most famous and wealthy pilgrimage locations in England. For centuries the shrine was visited by various kings, many of whom gave generously to the abbey. The town arose as the wealth and fame of the abbey grew.

But as we all know, fate can be cruel and in 1539, during the English Reformation and the subsequent Dissolution of the Monasteries, all the abbey’s property was seized by the Crown. On November 4,1539 the abbot and his monks were expelled and the abbey was dissolved, but before Cromwell’s troop could arrive the Monks dug up Edmund’s casket and reburied it in or near the abby grounds. For centuries historians have searched for the location of the venerated saint’s holy remains, but all their efforts have been in vain and the secret is still secure.

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On the Green

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Tower Door

St Edmundsbury Cathedral Ceiling

St Edmundsbury Cathedral Ceiling

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Abbey Fountain

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Putt Putt Golf on the Abbey Green

Courtyard

St Edmund in the Courtyard

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A private home on the Abbey grounds

Stockholm – Hustle & Bustle

StockholmCardLet’s start with a travel tip. I’m always a little leery of package schemes and deals aimed at visitors, but the Stockholm Card is the exception and a great deal. This is a real godsend, which, if you keep busy, offers significant savings. It is also hugely convenient to not have to dig for cash or use a credit card everywhere you go. Besides giving you free passage on all of Stockholm’s public transportation you also get free access to over 75 major museums and major historical sites.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Stockholm is a big and busy city, not big and busy in an otherworldly sense like Hong Kong, New York or London. There are no skyscrapers and the church spires are still the tallest structures in town. There are no giant cloverleaf overpasses like arteries in some huge beast, but Stockholm is spread out over 14 islands with a complex overlapping transport system that incorporates ferries, buses, trams, subways, bridges, walkways and roads that tie the whole thing together.

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The City Food Market

CityMarket

The City Food Market

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Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

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In Blasieholmen

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On the ferry to Djurgarden

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In Blasieholem

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On the ferry to Djurgarden

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On the dock in Skeppsholem

Statue

Hotorget Square

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Across the water towards Ostermalm

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Across the water towards Ostermalm

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Kiosk in Djurgarden

Clock

Clock near Kungstradgarden

Old Tram Sign

Old Tram Sign

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Building in Ostermalm

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Walking in the old city.

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Near T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, or “Old Town”, is our favorite part of the city. It is situated on the island of Stadsholmen and is one huge warren of narrow medieval streets and heritage sites. The Royal Palace, museums and 17th century churches are just steps from each other. The entire atmosphere is of a bygone era.

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Stortorget was the site of the old Stock Exchange is now a lively square in the heart of the old town but in 1520 it was the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath when the Danish King tricked the Swedish Regent and beheaded more then 80 Swedish noblemen in this very square.

Stortorget

Stortorget

The Hotorget Flea Market

No trip would be complete without a flea market. The square at Hotorget is a flower and produce market all week but every Sunday it transforms to a great little second hand market. Just try to keep Wendi away. I dare you.

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Sinking Expectations or The Very Short Voyage of the Vasa

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When the Vasa was designed by two Dutch brothers in 1628 it was the largest and most heavily armed war ship in the world. With this vessel the Swedes hoped to strike fear in their enemies and control all trade on the Baltic Sea. Unfortunately, there was no engineering, as we know it, at the time and all construction was essentially done by trial and error. The massive ship proved to be just a whisper too tall and slightly too narrow. It was a lovely sunny day on August 10th in 1628 when the Vasa set out on it’s maiden voyage. In a slight breeze it listed a little to starboard, took in water through the gun ports and sank to the bottom of Stockholm harbor where it lay until being rediscovered in 330 feet of water in 1956. After a complex salvage operation and a 17 year conservation project the Vasa now sits proudly in it’s own especially designed museum.

http://www.vasamuseet.se/en/The-Ship/Life-on-board/

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Karmøy & Stavanger

Besides being Norway’s largest island, Karmøy is commonly referred to as the “Homeland of the Viking Kings – Norway’s Birthplace. We began our visit in Haugesund, now a shipping and fishing port, it has many historical connections and was once the stomping ground of Harald Fairhair, the first King of Norway, who lived from 850 to 932 AD and was reputed to have between 11 and 20 sons who couldn’t get along with anyone, not even each other.

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Olav’s Church

Olav’s Church is at Avaldsnes, a beautiful setting and the historic site of Harald’s Royal Farm and burial mound.

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle stands on the north side of Olav’s Church. The Sagas warn that Doomsday will occur if ever the needle touches the church wall. It is rumored that the clergymen of Avaldsnes have snuck out at night and chiseled off pieces to save the world. Apparently the end is a mere 9.2 cm away.

Virgin Mary's Needle -Olav's Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle – Olav’s Church

Skudeneshavn

Situated at the very southern tip of Karøy, Skudeneshavn is a traditional fishing settlement filled with whitewashed houses from the early 19th century. Old Shudeneshaven is considered one of the best preserved small towns in Norway.

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Lady in the Park

Lady in the Park

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Back On The Road

We are back on the road and headed for Stavanger which is just across Boknafjorden. On the map it looks close, but it isn’t. Getting there involves two ferries and two of the deepest tunnels I have ever been through. They recommend chewing gum to help your ears.

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Stavanger

Originally a traditional market town, first herring, then canning and eventually oil have transformed Stavanger into Norway’s fourth largest city.

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Norsk Oljemusem – Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Gamie “Old” Stavanger

The houses along the terraced narrow cobblestone streets of this district were slated for demolition after World War II when local citizens stepped in and called for their preservation. Once the homes of sailors and tradesmen, Gamie Stavanger now has 156 lovingly restored whitewashed cottages.

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

The Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

This church is located at Borgund in Lærdal beside the Sognefjord and is the world’s best preserved stave church.

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

These medieval wooden Christian church buildings were once common in north-western EuropeIt is believed, that at one point, there were between 750 and 1000 stave churches in Norway. Today there are only 28 remaining. In the Middle Ages, when people in Europe were building great cathedrals in stone, Norway developed similar construction techniques with timber. Norway had a very long tradition of wood construction for buildings, art and the production of ships. The roof structure is essentially an inverted ship hull.

Come On In

The North Door

The North Door

The decoration of stave churches is a fascinating blend of Christianity and Viking era symbols with several runic inscriptions on the church walls and the distinctive “Dragon’s Heads”, similar to those found on Viking ships, jutting out from the gable peaks. The main doorway has vine-scrolls on the pilasters and serpents and dragons on the side panels and lintel.

The Main Doorway

The Main Doorway

Runic Inscriptions

Runic Inscriptions & Animal Masks On the South Door

Medieval Stone Altar. The Altarpiece Was Painted In 1654.

Medieval Stone Altar. The Altarpiece Was Painted In 1654.

The timbers used to construct this church were felled in the year 1180. There are two factors that have accounted for the church’s longevity, it is constructed entirely on a stone foundation so that none of the wood touches the ground and also the timbers were “seasoned on the root” which draws the tar to the surface thereby preserving the wood beneath.

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

More Useless But Interesting Facts

St. Andrew’s Cross:

St. Andrew's Cross

St. Andrew’s Cross

The diagonal cross-braces are named after St. Andrew who was crucified on a diagonal cross, supposedly at his own request, as he deemed himself unworthy to be crucified on the same type of cross as Jesus had been. Who knows? But one thing is clear, the whole idea captured people’s imagination. The symbol has been used on the flags of Scotland, England, Grenada, Jersey, Logrono, Vitoria, Amsterdam, Breda, Potchefstroom, Kateijk, Valdivia, Tenerife, Galicia, Jamaica, Burgundy, the Imperial Russian Navy, the state flags of Florida and Alabama, as well as, the former Indian princely states of Khairpur, Rajkot, and Jaora, just to name a few. And of course, there is the much debated Confederate flag. Although the original designer, Willian Porcher Miles, insisted he changed it from an upright cross to a saltire so that it would be more a heraldic device then a religious symbol.

Vestlandet – Gateway to Norway

Norway

I should begin by saying that to call Norway beautiful is an understatement on the magnitude of referring to Angelina Jole as “kind of attractive”. This place is crazy beautiful. If you like vistas of verdant forests and unspoiled tranquil inlets with villages and towns huddled on the water’s edge this is the place for you.

Our Exchange

People are always curious where we end up when we do these exchanges. We are very lucky to find ourselves in a lovely traditional Nordic country home.

Nagel1Nagel2Nagel3

We are situated on Radoy, a relatively small island just north of Bergen in the county of Vestlandet.

The Neighborhood

Walking distance of the house.

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On The Road

The whole region consists of a plethora of small and medium sized islands. As the crow flys, nothing seems that far away, but unlike the birds, we are bound to the earth. Driving around means relying on a hugely circuitous network of very narrow country lanes, an assortment of bridges, both large and small, and a system of ferries that range from big ocean going vessels to tiny tow barges. The whole area reminds me of a joke we would hear as kids about an old farmer from Maine explaining to a lost tourist, “you just can’t get there from here.”. To hurry is futile. It’s all very exciting as the teeny weenie lanes wind up, down and around, past incredibly picturesque farms and homes perched on impossibly steep hillsides and tucked into snug little coves and harbors.

Vestlandet31 Vestlandet30 Vestlandet29 Vestlandet28 Vestlandet27 Vestlandet24

Vestlandet6 Vestlandet1

Rich or poor, it's nice to have your own little island!

Rich or poor, it’s nice to have your own little island!

Plunder In The Tundra

Title

Iceland is a small and very remote place, smaller then Washington State with about 320,000 Icelanders. By comparison, Washington has just fewer than 7 million. The country’s remoteness has created some interesting results. It has been said that the Icelandic language has remained so unpolluted that, with the exception of new words, early Icelanders could understand you today.

Incest Prevention

Incest Prevention App

Incest Prevention App

With such a small population in Iceland, most share common ancestors, and almost everyone is distantly related to each other. A genealogy database called “The Book of Icelanders” has been created. Worldwide, it is unique in its completeness. In light of the closeness of the population “Incest Prevention” is apparently a concern. Software developers have created a Beta version of an anti-incest app that can keep residents from becoming kissing’ cousins. The apps motto is ” Bump in the app before you bump in the bed.”

The Gods

Odin

Odin

 Since Marvel Comics have brought Norse mythology to the big screen most of us are somewhat familiar with the impossibly hunky Thor and the evil conniving Loki, but interest in the old Norse Gods doesn’t end with the movies. Icelanders will soon be able to publicly worship Odin’s entire clan at the first major temple to the Norse Gods since the Vikings pillaged the known world more then a thousand years ago. The domed 3,800 square foot Pagan Worship site began construction last January at a cost of about a million dollars. The temple, which will align with the sun and incorporate the Golden Ratio, is being built into Öskjuhlíð Hill overlooking Reykjavik and will house about 250 worshipers at a time for various services including marriages and funerals, but no sacrifices, animal or otherwise. Iceland has approximately 2,400 pagans, but for you Yankees out there, don’t be too quick to judge. Conservative estimates suggest that America has just under 400,000 pagans, making us the reigning champs in the pantheon of pagans.

SAD Cars

Grizzly

Grizzly

We rented online from SAD Cars. We assumed it stood for Scandinavian Auto Division or some such thing. We never imagined that it really meant “sad cars”. The car looked like a crime scene on wheels, as if an angry customer had attacked it with buckshot and a baseball bat. Grizzly, our stoner service representative, assured us that it ran great and a little vibration in the front end was nothing to be concerned about. The pre-rental damage diagram had so many circles, arrows and Xs on it you could barely see the illustration of the car. The only positive thing we can say is that we didn’t have to push it to start it. And we’re off.

The Blue Lagoon

Your flight arrives at 6am and no hotel will let you in until at least 2 or 3pm so most people spend the day floating around in the Blue Lagoon. Touristy? Sure. Spendy?  You bet. But, oh so comfy.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon

The Golden Circle

This is a nice one day circular route through SW Iceland that gives most tourist with a limited time frame a nice sample of the Icelandic countryside.

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Strokkur Geysir

Strokkur Geysir – Geothermal Field in Haukadalur

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Pingvellir National Park

Wreak-Ya-Vek (Hey nobody can it spell anyway)

I don’t know how else to describe Reykjavik except funky.

Leif Eriksen stands guard outside Hallgrimskirkja

Leif Eriksen stands guard outside Hallgrimskirkja

The Midnight View From Our Window

The Midnight View From Our Window

Corrugated Iron Is The Siding Of Choice

Corrugated Iron Is The Siding Of Choice

More Corrugated Iron

Corrugated Iron Is The Siding Of Choice

#8

#8

Sleep Deprived and Kind of Smelly.

Although we enjoyed Iceland a lot it should be noted that it’s not to everyone’s taste. The sun sets at midnight and is up again at 3am, but it never really gets dark. The bars in the capital don’t get hopping until 12 and don’t close until 4:30 am, which does make for a lot of drunken idiots roaming the streets all night. Which may account for the fact that, with the exception of tourists, we didn’t see anyone in the capital over 35 years old.

Oliver Maria Schmitt

Oliver Maria Schmitt

In a newly published travelogue, the German author Oliver Maria Schmitt is not impressed with Iceland’s weather, nature, geology, food or culture. He was especially annoyed with the inhabitants, which he characterized as depressing, disgusting and obnoxious. Oliver went on to describe Iceland as an island of death and gloom, filled with darkness and depression, as depressing as East Germany. High praise indeed. While disgusted with the stench of sulphur and the desolate landscapes, he was equally bothered by the weather, “An awful, endless storm which alternates between rain and snow, something which would suck the will to live out of any sane person. However, the inmates don‘t seem to care in the least”. He goes on to characterize the inhabitants as self-important idiots and whale-hunting retards. I am barely scratching the surface here as the disillusioned German traveler’s scathing comments go on for pages and I can assure you that not everyone appreciates the humor in the satirist’s remarks. Some prominent commentators on Icelandic politics and culture have referred to the Oliver as unfunny and insulting. Unfortunately, there is some truth in his comments, which makes the satire that much funnier.

Sunday Morning At Baggage Drop Off

Sunday Morning Baggage Drop Off At Keflavik Airport

Still tourism in Iceland has doubled since 2009 from 600,00 to 1.2 million visitors annually, but according to Jon Kaldal of Iceland Magazine, “We Icelanders are not likely to pick up any new bad habits from the hordes of visitors. We are already famous for our love of late-night revelry, promiscuity, and lack of discipline, to name just a few things that blight our behavior in general.”   Please don’t be dissuaded, Iceland is indeed barren but amazingly beautiful, with ever changing weather, seemingly designed for the rugged outdoorsman.   By the way the showers do smell like rotten eggs.

Loose Ends

As always we’ll finish up this year’s adventure with some of the loose ends that didn’t seem to fit anywhere else.

Air shaft in our Madrid hotel.

Air shaft in our Madrid hotel.

I find this clock emblematic of the kind of public respect you see in Austria. It’s only about 8′ off the ground, easily accessable to any passerby, it’s in perfect working order, the glass is unbroken and it is not covered in grafitti or dents. Amazing. Call me cynical, but I think in an outdoor public space is most countries you’d need an armed guard to protect this timepiece. Within a week it’s demolished frame would be dangling from a frayed cord.

Neumarkt train station

Neumarkt train station

The Non-Stop in Budapest is permanently closed.

The Non-Stop in Budapest is permanently closed.

McDonalds in Innsbruck, Austria

McDonalds in Innsbruck, Austria

Gerloczy Hotel in Budapest. I love this logo.

Gerloczy Hotel in Budapest. I love this logo.

At the Gardens in Salzburg everybody lines up to do this.

At the Mirabellgarten in Salzburg everybody lines up to do this.

Stress Points

Stress Points

I have no idea.

I have no idea.

Am I the only one who finds this shop a little odd? They sell brushes, nothing but brushes., but all kinds of brushes. They have house painting brushes, artists brushes, clothes brushes, horse brushes, make up brushes, shoe brushes, hair brushes, household scrubbing brushes, giant brushes and tiny brushes, floor brooms and dust brooms. Anything with bristles, but only things with bristles.

Brush Shop

Outside the Brush Shop in Budapest.

I love this fountain.

I love this fountain.

This is part of an art project at the Museum of Modern Art in Salzburg that creates awareness of the Honorary City Titles program in which the Nazi state gave honorary titles to certain German and Austrian cities for their support of the Nazi Party. In 1938 Graz, Austria was awarded the title of Die Stadt der Volkserhebung, “City of the Popular Uprising”, for their pro-Nazi demonstrations before the Nazi annexation of Austria in March of 1938.

Honorary City

Die Stadt der Volkserhebung, “City of the Popular Uprising”

The design evolution of the Nazi SS logo.

The design evolution of the Nazi SS logo. The slow progression from soft to sinister.

Hungarian FBI Most Wanted Poster

Hungarian FBI Most Wanted Poster

Thank you all for tuning in.  Auf Wiedersehen