Category Archives: History

Alleys = Paths

In a previous posting I talked about my lifelong obsession with paths and county lanes. These old cities, with houses and businesses packed so close together, are filled with an abundance of narrow streets and alleys. Before the days of cars and trucks, these same lanes began as much traveled paths. They were small but bustling thoroughfares filled with people, animals and carts.

Today they have taken on a much different connotation, especially for tourists. We all get anxious when we feel displaced and on unfamiliar ground. A lot of people are very fearful of getting off the perscribed route. Some folks won’t travel at all for fear of finding themselves on unfamiliar territory. While alleys can be a welcome shortcut for locals they can also be a forbidding mystery for visitors. They can be a comfort for residents but filled with potential risk and danger for strangers who have very little idea where they lead or what potential danger may be lurking around the curve or at the far end. And yet I’m drawn to these dark passages, forever wondering how they fit into the immediate geography.

Now I’m not reckless or crazy, I don’t go trudging down alleys after dark. But, like most scary things around us, I find that if I try to overcome my natural reluctance and attempt a lane or two I usually learn a lot about the jigsaw puzzle around me.

The Rule of Two

I have only been able to find two references to the Rule of Two. In one instance it is a bidding guideline for Bridge and the other is in Star Wars where the Rule of Two states that there would be only two Sith at one time, a Master and an Apprentice. In Dutch culture, however, I can find nothing particular or overly significant about the number 2. but signs of the Two are everywhere. Never three, rarely one and fours are only pairs of two. I mentioned this to a Dutch friend and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I showed them numerous examples and the clear evidence that it is an almost constant design and decorating principle, but they were completely surprised as if they had never noticed before. But with the evidence so prevalent how can that be?  Perhaps I’ve stumbled onto one of those secret code systems where people send messages to each other by moving objects in the window or leaving curtains half open.

Wendi says that I’m wrong. There is no conspiracy here they’re just neatniks, plain and simple. The only thing they are signaling from their front windows is “Look how tidy I am”.

A Little Limburger?

We didn’t think that our Dutch Experience would be complete without a journey to the southern tip of Holland. We headed out for Maastricht, a very busy little city on the River Maas in the province of Limburg.

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

One of Holland’s oldest towns it’s surrounded on three sides by Germany and Belgium. Between the French, Germans, Romans, Spanish, Goths, Gauls, Papists and miscellaneous angry hordes it has changed hands many times over the centuries. To this day it still seems a little under siege, only now it’s tourists and probably not marauding mercenaries or religious zealots. The tourist promoters refer to it as the “Sunniest Town in Holland” and that may it true.  Much like South Dakota may be a whisper more tropical than North Dakota. In fact, it’s the only time we’ve needed an umbrella. Damp but fun none the less.

We’re here primarily to see the Bonnefantenmuseum, an amazing structure designed by Italian architect Aldo Rossi.  An interesting guy, he argued that a city must be studied and valued as something constructed over time and as such it holds our “collective memory”.

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

On to  ‘s-Hertogenbosch

S'Hertozenbosch Market Square

S’Hertozenbosch Market Square

‘s-Hertogenbosch was the birthplace and home of one of the greatest (twisted) painters of the northern Renaissance, Hieronymus Bosch, who’s painting  The Garden of Earthly Delights will still blow your mind 530 years later. And not in a good way.

Group of unknown German art students

Group of unknown German art students

While there some friends organized a great boat trip on the Binnen-Dieze, the city’s underground inner canal system. Apparently the canal had been an open sewer for centuries until in the 1960’s the city set out on a 25 year restoration project. Today fish swim in the water.

These are part of the Armada, a housing development designed by British architect Anthony McQuirk. From the air the eleven building project resembles a fleet of Spanish Warships moving across the water.

Chilly In Copenhagen

I thought the Dutch were tough. They’re whimps compared to the Danes. I haven’t been this cold in 20 years and they’re telling me it’s down right balmy. It’s 15 F out there and then an icy wind starts to blow. It creeps up your back and makes your jeans as penetrable as tissue paper. Do you think it slows these people down? Hell no! It’s spring in Denmark. They’re biking and walking and window shopping and setting at outdoor cafes with cold beer. The construction workers in front of our hotel started at 6am. They must have been trying to beat the afternoon heat. Nobody even notices the temperature. That’s the reason I’m complaining to you, the Danes don’t know what I’m talking about.

A frozen Nyhaven.

A frozen Nyhaven.

Hot or cold Copenhagen is a terrific town. It’s got a nice pulse with a lot of color and a youthful vibe. Cars and bikes and trucks and pedestrians all vying for dominance, and yet somehow cooperating with each other. Walking at night or taking public transport, although freezing, is relatively stress free as this is Europe’s safest city.

Copenhagen has lots of courtyards and private passages from one street to the next. I was intrigued with them 20 years ago and find that I still am.

There are a few things that every tourist is obligated, by law, to see.

And lots of shopping.

Nervous Shopper

Nervous Shopper

A Raid On Odense (the D is silent)

Take me now! You Girly Man.

Take me now! You Girly Man.

We have sailed into Odense, Denmark. Named for the Norse god, Odin, this must be the epicenter of Viking culture. As it turns out this is more the birthplace of Denmark’s favorite son, Hans Christian Andersen, then a Viking encampment. Our dear friend and Danish host, Dea, has informed us that Vikings were mostly farmers and all this talk about rape and pillaging is pure myth. That been said, I would much rather keep some of my illusions in tact and think of Vikings as the spitting image of their Gods; fierce, courageous and brooding.

St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

St. Canute’s Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

The history of St. Canute’s Cathedral does very little to dispel the Viking myth. King Canute and Prince Benedict were both slaughtered by angry peasants on the altar of nearby St. Alban’s Priory in 1086. Arriving at the site to collect her dead husband’s remains, Queen Adela said the small church emminated a golden light. Pilgrims soon began to show up to have their infirmities cured. Never ones to let let good propaganda go to waste, the Catholic Church canonized King Canute in 1108 and moved the Saint’s remains into the newly constructed Cathedral. And the miracles just keep on coming.

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

We’ve had a few snow flurries in Denmark. Mostly the air has been clear and sharp, but winter is still with us. The sun stays low in the sky and the trees haven’t  begun to soften their mark on the surroundings. 

16th and 17th century timber houses are scattered throughout the old town.

Finally, the “What the Hell Is It?” section.

I asked a lot of people what this is. Either nobody knew or thought I was an idiot for asking.

Rope Thingy.

Rope Thingy.

These are the Danish version of French balconies. Actually, they’re pretty cool and really open up a room.

French Balconies

French Balconies

These devices come in a variety of designs. They have a mirror on each side and allow you to set in the house and keep an eye on anything happening up and down the street. Apparently this is a very popular pastime in Denmark.

Nosey Neighbor Spyware

Nosey Neighbor Spyware

A Quick Look Around Sneek

Waterpoort

Waterpoort

Sneek is where we are situated. It is one of the Friese elf steden ( eleven Frisian cities ) that form a network tying the province together with roads, rails and canals. With all it’s canals, Sneek is the heart of the province’s water sport culture.

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Built in 1613, the Waterpoort, or watergate, formed part of the city wall and connected to the city with the harbor. It is now a Rijksmonument or National Heritage site in the Netherlands.

Waterpoort

Waterpoort
Waterpoort with Schuitje

Waterpoort with Schuitje

City Hall

City Hall

Pet Heron

Pet Heron

So I’m standing next to canal taking pictures and this heron walks up next to me. He was completely unafraid. I swear he was just curious to see what I was looking at.

Badhuisgracht 15

Badhuisgracht 15

I googled the address and found that Badhuisgracht 15 is for sale for the meager sum of 447,000 euros.($578,820.30) That’s reduced from 479,000 euros.($620,257.10) Pretty hefty for a 2 bedroom, one bath.

Is any city complete without a carnival?

Whirlygig

Whirlygig – Click Here

Carnivals are for kids right?

Kiddie ride?

Locked and loaded.

Locked and loaded.

I’m thinking that a cute kiddie car with a ballistic missle attached is the definition of “Passive Aggressive”.

The Russians Come To Assen

We are here to see the exhibit “The Soviet Myth” at the Drents Museum.

The Drents Museum

The Drents Museum

This show has been put together on a scale that could rival a Hollywood production. Barnum & Bailey would be proud. It starts with the gigantic, spotlighted Lenin statue, erected at the apex of the major roads and canal adjacent to downtown. Because of the scale, its presence is slightly surreal, like being transported to a different time and place.

Super Lenin

Super Lenin

Welcome

Welcome

The paintings themselves are as massive as they are fanciful. Bright carnival colors, huge images of dedicated, industrious, self-assured, healthy and purposeful young men and woman. Ever striving.

The Joy Of Communal Work

The Joy of Communal Work

Death Defying Feats

Death Defying Deeds

Completely engaged super solders forcing back a faceless evil.

Pushing Back Evil

Benevolent leaders like fathers and super heroes all in one.

Massive. About 40' wide.

Massive, over 40′ wide.

My Trusty Partner Steps In For Scale.

My trusty partner steps In for scale.

And that Red! Always that Red!

Always Red

Facility

At first glance these images seem designed to simply motivate, inspire and create an overwhelming sense of pride and confidence in the people they are supposed to represent. But then, in the west, we were taught to distrust these images, as I’m certain they were taught to distrust images of us. Perhaps, with all that behind us now, these iconic paintings have simply moved into the realm of a classic, incredibly well done and very enjoyable advertising campaign.

Bye Now.

Big Lenin - Little Wendi

Big Lenin – Little Wendi

“It’s The Ijlst We Can Do.”

The sun came in and out today so we decided a short road trip was in order. It’s a little windy and cold, 29 – 30F, but very beautiful.

My God the folks are hearty around here. In all the little towns we passed through, everyone, 9 to 90, goes everywhere on bicycles. Bright red hands and faces peddling against a 15 mph headwind. Tough. Way tougher then us.

The Center of Ijlst

The Center of Ijlst

Our first stop was Ijlst. I’ve heard it pronounced 10 times and still can’t get it right. A lovely little bedroom community now, at times it is a stop on the famous Elfstedentocht, the legendary ice skating marathon on the Friesland canal system. The race is 124 miles long and encompasses eleven cities. Our route was similar but somewhat shorter and warmer and involved frequent stops for coffee.

Ijlst

Ijlst

Bakery - Ijlst

Bakery – Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill 2 - Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill 2 – Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill - Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill – Ijlst

Hindaloopen

Lockkeepers House - Hindeloopen

Lockkeepers House – Hindeloopen

Makken

Canal Locks at Makken

Canal Locks at Makken

Workum

Art Gallery - Workum

Art Gallery – Workum

The View From Staveron

Ijsselmeer

Ijsselmeer

Even The Off Ramps Look  Nice

N354

N354

On The Road Again.

Our annual “Get The Hell Out Of The Rain” trip is off to a great start. We have spent our first week in the Bay Area visiting family and friends and seeing as many great photos as possible. Our exploration began at the Oakland Museum of California with a great Richard Misrach show, “1991: Oakland-Berkeley Fire Aftermath”. Immediately after the fire Misrach roamed the devastated neighborhoods with an 8 x 10 camera recording what many have called one of the worst urban disasters in American history. Out of respect for the victims, the artist had kept the images in storage for 20 years.

Next up was the SFMOMA for the much celebrated Francesca Woodman Show. This is the first major American retrospective of the artist’s work since her tragic suicide in 1981 at the age of 22. In Francesca Woodman’s terribly short life she managed to compile a huge body of highly influencial and ground breaking photographic art, over 10,000 negatives and 800 prints.

We finished up at the Fraenkel Gallery in San Francisco with the Robert Adams’ “Consolations: Prairie, Forest, Sea” show. Astoria’s own, Robert Adams has had a huge influence on generations of artists. His refined black-and-white photographs document scenes of the American West of the past four decades, revealing the impact of human activity on the last vestiges of wilderness and open space.

“no place is boring, if you’ve had a good night’s sleep and have a pocket full of unexposed film.” -robert adams

Seaview, Wa. – Part 3

On Saturday,  August 20th, the Port of Ilwaco will host the season’s third “Art Night at the Marina”. The Wade Gallery will feature our 3rd and final installment of the Seaview collection. Lots of folks have been excited to see the homes that make up their neighborhood. We will have over 50 images on display for this month’s show. We hope to print a limited edition book this fall.

"The Thorsen House" - K Place

"The Thorsen House" - K Place

"1895" - 37th Place

"1895" - 37th Place

"1885" - K Place

"1885" - K Place

"Jeri Lou" 1895 - K Place

"Jeri Lou" 1895 - K Place

"The Monkey Puzzle Tree" - K Place

"The Monkey Puzzle Tree" - K Place

"The Malin House" - L Place

"The Malin House" - L Place

1890 - K Place

1890 - K Place

Hope to see you at the Marina.