Category Archives: Home Exchange

Budapest – Our First Look Around

Budapest is a great big, busy and exciting city. It’s the capital and largest city in Hungary, and one of the largest cities in the European Union, with a metropolitan population of 3.3 million.

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View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

Budapest is a very beautiful place that is ranked as the most liveable Central and Eastern European city on EIU‘s quality of life index, “the world’s second best city” by Condé Nast Traveler, “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes, and the 9th most beautiful city in the world by UCityGuides.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

The Chain Bridge

The Chain Bridge

We’ve rented a great little apartment, Liesel/Pierre, in a historic building at Szervita ter 5 in the center of downtown Budapest.

Szervita ter 5

Szervita ter 5

Through here.

Through here.

Across the courtyard.

Across the courtyard.

We're on the top floor.

We’re on the top floor.

Top floor.

Top floor.

And we're there.

And we’re there.

Come In To The  Liesel/Pierre.

Now a walk around the neighborhood.

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Parizsi Utca

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Egyetemi Templom

Szervita ter

Szervita ter 9

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Szerb Utca

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Vaci Utca

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Veres Palne Utca

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Eizsebet ter

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Karpatia at Ferenciek tere 3-5

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Deák Ferenc tér

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Piarista Koz

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Petofi Sandor Utca

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Chocolate Shop

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Fat Mo’s Speakeasy

The Central Market is one of Budapest’s great institutions. It’s cavernous and bustling and filled with food, clothes, gifts, wine, a great lunch and all things Hungarian.

The Central Market

The Central Market

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Budapest59

 


The Wendi Files – Spanish Edition

Everyone seems to enjoy peeking in on what Wendi’s up to and I guess that includes me, seeing I’m her resident stalker and personal paparazzi. So here’s the Spanish Edition, not quite as quirky as Holland and certainly not as inebriated as Ireland, but wacky nonetheless.

Benicassim Train Station

Benicassim Train Station

This way

Right this way to Morella Castle.

Madrid.

Madrid.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

Nice tomatoes.

Nice tomatoes.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar

With the Giants in Morella.

With the Giants in Morella.

The Alhambra

The Alhambra

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Moving fast in Cordoba

Moving fast in Cordoba

Hey down here.

Hey, down here.

At the winery in El Ceigo

At the winery in El Ceigo

Posing at the Monastery.

Posing at the Monastery.

There's wine on the way in Valencia.

There’s wine on the way in Valencia.

Making new friends at the Parade.

Making new friends at the Parade.

 Waiting for me at IVAM.

Waiting for me at IVAM.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Dress shop window.

Dress shop window.

See the blisters

See the blisters

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Our Spanish adventure is done. We’re off to Budapest tomorrow. See you there.



Benicassim

Benicassim Train Stop

Benicassim Train Stop

The name, Benicassim, is derived from the Banu Qasim tribe, a segment of the Kutama Berbers, that settled the area during the 8th century Moorish conquest of Spain, although none of the original history survives. With a population of 18,098, the town is a beach resort who’s main economic activity comes from tourism. Benicassim has some of the most important artificial beaches in Europe and is famous for the music festivals FIB and Rototom SunSplash, which flood the town with thousands of visitors in July and August.

Vormar Beach

Vormar Beach

East of Benicassim

East of Benicassim

Benicassim has 6km of white sand beaches and a great promenade. Promenade

Grass Umbrellas

Grass Umbrellas

Things

Things

WC

WC

The eastern end of the promenade is lined with villas from the late 19th and early 20th century.

VillaVictoria

The Villa Victoria. Renowned photographer Cartier Bresson is reputed to have spent a summer here.

VillaPons

Villa Pons

VillaPaquita

Villa Paquita

VillaAmparo

Villa Amparo

Tree

A little more thought might have gone into the placement of this tree?

The western end of the beach is dominated by high rise  buildings from the 60s and 70s.

Edificio Helena

Edificio Helena

The Rambla

The Rambla

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The ”Vía Verde” is a 5.5 km cyclist and walking coastal route that shows a natural rugged coast with beautiful coves and cliffs between the resort towns of Benicassim and Oropesa.

Benicasim

Vía Verde

 This is clearly a Catholic nation. The saints seem to peek at you around every corner. Almost all the heritage sites have their roots in the church one way or another.

Santa Agueda

Santa Agueda

La Purisima Concepcion

La Purisima Concepcion

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Roadside Altar

That been said, we only bumped into one festival. We noticed on Saturday that the police had stopped all street parking downtown and barricaded off all the side streets. By Sunday morning they were covered with palm frond designs.

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By noon all the bells started to ring, they struck up a dirge and the procession began.

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Lighting candles

Lighting candles

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On a lighter note, a couple odds and ends.

As De Copas Delivery Truck

As De Copas Delivery Truck

This some kind of sealant. We've seen it on quite few  buildings.

Valencia

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Plaza del Ayuntamiento

Valencia is a great city. It’s very old, founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC, Valencia has grown into Spain’s third largest city with a metropolitan area population of around 2.3 million.

Although it doesn’t feel like a huge place. The historic center has a very small city vibe with wide boulevards linked together by small streets and pedestrian passageways filled with traditional cafes, tabernas and specialty shops. A lot of the sidewalks in the city center are marble and, boy howdy, they feel good under foot.

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City Hall and Plaza del Ayuntamiento

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City Hall

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Plaza de la Riena and the Miguelete, the Cathedral Bell Tower.

Tower

Santa Catalina

Street Band

Street Band

Balconies

Even the underside of the balconies are tiled.

Valencia14 ValenciaSq Valencia22 Valencia21HorchateriaAt the end of the 15th century the Silk Exchange (Llotja de la Seda) or La Lonja was erected as the city became a commercial emporium that attracted merchants from all over Europe.

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La Lonja

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La Lonja’s vaulted ceiling.

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La Lonja’s guilded ceiling.

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La Lonja’s gothic windows.

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La Lonja

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La Lonja’s courtyard

Estacion del Norte is the city’s main train station. Fast, easy and filled with some great tile work.

Estacion del Norte

Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

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Estacion del Norte

Plaza Redonda is a lovely circular market traditionally used to sell lace, fabric and millinery goods.

Plaza Redonda

Plaza Redonda

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Plaza Redonda

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Plaza Redonda

Just a few loose ends.

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This translates to “particular pitch”?

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Filiberto Leon’s Watches

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Main Post Office Mail Slots

Valencia21Valencia8 Valencia3And finally, this is Manolo Montoliu standing proudly outside the Plaza de Toros, Valencia’s Bullring.

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo was a bullfighter and flagman who was killed on May 1, 1992 by the bull Cabatisto in the bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Seville. You know what they say about messing with the bull… See for yourself.

Bullfighting is still very popular in Spain and people line up here to purchase tickets for upcoming spectacles.

 

 

Graffiti – Valencian Style

We Only Fight For The Future

We Only Fight For The Future

Graffiti is pretty much everywhere here. The highways and railway lines are completely covered with “tagging”. That’s when someone paints their name or “handstyle” everywhere they can find an open space. This type of graffiti clings to underpasses, bridges, abandon buildings, old silos and crumbling walls. Anywhere the author can work unmolested for a sufficient length of time.

Tom

Tom

El Puig

El Puig

Sent Blacky

Sent Blacky

There seems to be some loose rules around these things. For example, writing over someone else’s tag is a sign of disrespect and could ignite a whole “tagging war” or too closely copying someone else’s style would be considered déclassé. I tend to think of this style as vandalism and the province of unemployed youth. Although, they are certainly ambitious in their scope, application and placement. We have seen some that was 80’ off the ground on the side of a 10 story building. To me, this cartoonish three dimensional block type all seems to be a variation on the same theme.

Sagunt

Sagunt

I’m intrigued by the more illustrative style, primarily for it’s cleverness and artistic acumen. Although, I suppose that depends on whether or not it’s your building they’re painting on.

Benny

Benny

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red Riding Hood

Swing

Swing

Winky

Winky

I See You

I See You

Clown Cones

Clown Cones

No Bullfighting

No Bullfighting

Eyeball

Eyeball

Vertigo

Vertigo

Open Door Here

Open Door Here

I have no idea!

I have no idea!

 

Tossa de Mar

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My good friend and spiritual advisor Big Dog Beller has been telling me for years to go to the Costa Brava and stay in Tossa de Mar. We finally made it and he was right, of all the coastal resort towns we have seen, it is the most charming. A little remote, not too crowded, nice shopping district, some quaint family run restaurants, two small beaches and a terrific walled old town. The place has kind of an old South Beach feel, but with history. We even stayed at the Hotel Florida.

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The road winds northeast up the coast for about 30 km, hugging the shore and offering fabulous views of coves and inlets with the clearest water you have ever seen.

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CB17Tossa de Mar’s additional claim to fame is as the location of the 1951 hit movie “Pandora & the Flying Dutchman” starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. There are pictures all over town of Ava cavorting with the locals while Frank Sinatra, her husband at the time, maintains a somewhat jealous vigil on the activities. They have even erected a statue of her on the ramparts overlooking the town.

Poster

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

This is the Black Madonna. She’s the big attraction here. According to legend, the Black Madonna was discovered in the year 880 by some shepherds who had seen a strange light and heard music coming from a cave in the mountain. From then on the statue has remained on Montserrat Mountain and become one of the most famous pilgrimage sights in Spain. We waited in line for over an hour just to walk past.

The Black Madonna

The Black Madonna

In 1025, Oliba, Abbot of Ripoll and Bishop of Vic, founded a new monastery at the hermitage of Santa Maria de Montserrat. The little monastery soon began to receive pilgrims and visitors who contributed to the spread of stories of miracles and wonders performed by the Virgin.

Between French wars, world wars and civil war the monastery has suffered from destruction and abandonment numerous times over the centuries but continues to bounce back. Most notably, the Spanish Civil War saw the violent suppression of the Abbey of Montserrat. Of the 278 priests and 583 religious men and women killed in Catalonia by Republican forces, 22 were monks of the Abbey of Montserrat. 

During the rule of Francisco Franco, the Abbey of Montserrat was seen as a sanctuary for scholars, artists, politicians and students. Franco’s men were often waiting for wanted people a few miles down the road.

Today, Montserrat’s modernization appears to be complete.

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

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Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

There are miles of candles.

There are miles of candles.

Everyone takes their picture in front of the Basillica with hands raised. I’m not sure what that’s about.

Picture taking

Picture taking

Lining up the shot.

Lining up the shot.

Trollys in Montserrat

Trolleys in Montserrat

Mailbox

Mailbox

Situated atop the craggy pinnacle of Montserrat Mountain, the sheer scale and splendor of the place is jaw dropping. There are funiculars to the various peaks and hiking trails linking it all together.

View From The Funicular

View From The Funicular

View from the train.

View from the train.

Wendi at St. Joan's peak.

Wendi at St. Joan’s peak.

Monistrol de Montserrat

We stayed in the village of Monistrol de Montserrat and took the train up from there. Of course, the more adventurous can spend the day hiking up the mountain in true pilgrim style.

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

The streets in Monistrol are so narrow that people have to scurry into doorways to let vehicles pass.

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

Out of the way.

Out of the way.

A little too tight.

A little too tight.

Fun For Foodies

When traveling you are forever comparing everything to home. What do people here do differently then we do? We love food markets. They are a quick overview of what locals eat and what they call everyday things we are very familar with. Also, how other people combine things we would never think to put together. For example, I’ve discovered you can drop a fried egg on just about anything from a hamburger to a pork chop to a plate of spaghetti.

One of the things we have discovered that the Spanish do really well is the urban mercado. We have been to four so far, two in Madrid and two in Valencia, and they have all been exceptional. Mercados are very busy places where people congregate to socialize and purchase every kind of vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, spice, nut, cheese or wine imaginable. And a thousand other things you never even thought of. Most have small counters where we can purchase coffee or a drink as well as tapas and small samples of just about anything.

Eat

The Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid is a little spendy but a great place for lunch.

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

The Mercado San Anton, also in Madrid, is in the middle of the trendy gay district and is a huge social gathering spot with terrific tapas and wine vendors.

Mercado San Anton in   Madrid

Mercado San Anton in Madrid

The Mercado Colon in Valencia is the swankiest of the markets we went to. Recently renovated, it is mostly flower vendors and small stalls run by fancy restaurants.

Marcado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

By far the most exceptional Mercado we visited was the Mercado Central in Valencia. It is huge and filled with everything you never imagined you wanted.

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Iberian ham can be very expensive. Serrano ham is a little more affordable.

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I’ve seen about 20 varieties of shrimp.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Wafer thin ham and bacon is everywhere.

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham haunches at the Mercado Central in Valencia

These ham haunches can cost between $120 and $300.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Very scary fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I am definitely not eating this.

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More snacks at the Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Seafood snacks at Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Welons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Melons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Madrid

Madrid is the capital and largest city of Spain with a population of roughly 3.3 million. This makes it the third largest city in the European Union. Its influences in politics, education, media, arts, entertainment, environment, fashion, science and culture all contribute to its status as one of the world’s major global cities.

We were lucky enough to find a great little hotel called Lapepa in the middle of the Museum District that couldn’t possibly have been better. It was clean, quiet and walking distance from just about everything we wanted. Paula and and whole staff were friendly and amazingly helpful.

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Villa Real

View from our window -The Villa Real

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a big city and can be a little intimidating until you get your bearings. We have come to love the “Hop On Hop Off” City Bus Tours. They are a smokin’ deal. For only 8 euros you can ride all day and get on and off anywhere it stops. It gives you a great feel for the layout and stops at all the major attractions. The upper deck is open air so on a nice day they can’t be beat. After just one rotation you feel like you have a pretty good idea where everything is and where you’d like to return.

Get on the bus Gus

Get on the bus Gus

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Banca de Espana

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Puerta del Sol

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Congreso de los Diputados

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Torres de Colon

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Torres de Colon

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Cervantes and Don Quixote

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Queen Isabella

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Santa María la Real de La Almudena

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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The Metropolis Building

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We saw so much great art in Madrid it was overwelming. The three big hitters are the Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Museo Reina Sofia. There’s a great discount pass online, The Paseo del Arte card, that includes all three and gives you a scheduled admission to the Prado, which means no waiting in line. There are also, at least, 50 smaller museums that are equally outstanding. You could spend a month here just looking at art.

Wendi was adament about going to the El Rastro street market, considered by many as the largest street market in Europe and it is huge. With an estimated 3500 market stalls it seems to stretch for miles down little streets and alleys. And it is packed tighter then a can of sardines. And hang onto your panties. I caught two different people trying to reach into my camera bag. I wasn’t particularly concerned as there wasn’t anything in it but an old map, still it’s a little disconcerting. That been said, we did have a great time. There is a lot of excitement and a million things to look at. I do have to offer one caveat though. Cheap t-shirts dominate. Like almost every street market we’ve been to, if China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Korea and Guatemala stop making cheap crap this place will be closed up tight in no time.

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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Making friends at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket9

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket10

The frame street at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket4

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket3

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket1

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket2

El Rastro Street Market

The Tabernas are pretty cool too. They’re a little like Spanish Sushi Bars in that the top of the bar is lined with all sorts of little dishes from olives to small open faced sandwiches that run from 1 to 5 euros each. The barman gives you a drink and you just point at what you want and they tally it up when you’re done. It’s affordable and great fun, very social with people coming and going and everyone talking at once.

Travana

The girls at Taberna Txakolina on Calle Cava Baja

The Saturday we were in Madrid was the annual Gay Pride Parade and it dominated the entire museum district of the city. There were thousands of partiers in the streets from all over Europe. By 10am police were rerouting traffic, closing down major intersections and roundabouts for a 6pm parade. All the major fountains were turned off to keep overheated partiers out of them. The parade consisted of hundreds of LGBT groups and organizations from every city in Spain. Cross-dressers were turned into minor celebrities and graciously had their pictures taken with anyone who asked. The crowd had a ball.

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

 

The Need For Standardization

The Dog's Cajones

The Dog’s Cajones

As you can see from the storefront above, the Spanish seem to like dogs. There are quite a few around and they all seem fairly friendly. We are in an urban area with a lot of people so I understand the need to control pets and in particular where they leave “Nature’s Callings”. But there needs to be some standardization in signage so that everyone is on the same page. Without a clear and concise message these things are open to interpretation. Things can spin out of control. The result could be pet anarchy. This sign is a perfect example of a generic municipal sign. The dog depicted is completely bland and figureless. This could be any dog, which is the point. There is no room for error.

Perfectly Generic Dog Sign

Perfectly Generic Dog Sign

On the other hand, I’m not even sure that this one is a dog. From what I can see of it behind the red bar it’s a wolf. Of course nobody wants a wolf on the beach. What are you crazy?

Wolf?

Wolf?

Now this one’s a puppy, a friendly puppy. Who doesn’t like puppies?

Adorable Puppy

Adorable Puppy

This one is just sad. Why have they decided to embarrass this poor dog? I think that we’re all smart enough to know why we don’t want the dog on the beach. Do we really have to humiliate the poor creature? And what’s with the perfect dog in the lower right? Go ahead just rub it in a little bit more.

Just Humiliating

Just Humiliating

This one’s not a dog. It’s a hand puppet, right?

Hand Puppet

Hand Puppet

This dog’s just a little crazy. To me the sign says “No Ditzy Dogs On The Beach”.

Crazy Dog

Crazy Dog

I find this one particularly troubling. This is not a generic dog. This is a very specific dog. We were so certain that they were singling out a particular canine that we went around the neighborhood showing people the picture and asking them if anyone knew this dog and what exactly had he done. He looks like a pretty nice dog to me.

Whose Dog Is This?

Whose Dog Is This?

They keep telling us, “he went away” or maybe it was, “you should go away”.

Jose The Good Dog

Jose The Good Dog