Category Archives: Tourism

Beach Music v.1

Our month in Southern California has begun.
Wendi & I are very familiar with the area.
In the early 80’s we explored coastal towns from Chula Vista to Oceanside
and were captivated by the laid back surfer hippie feel.
Well, those days are gone!
You could write a thesis on the sociological significance of the economic and cultural shift that has transformed Southern California in the last 30 years.
So, let’s just not go there.
Instead let’s listen close and see if we can still hear some Beach Music.

Beach Runner

Beach Runner

The View

The View

Redondo Beach Power Station

Redondo Beach Power Station

Show Dogs

Show Dogs

The Poop Deck

The Poop Deck

Lifeguard Station1

Lifeguard Station1

A Country Lane

It’s funny, the things that influence you. As a young boy the wallpaper in our living room was printed with 8 or 10 variations on a “Country Lane” theme. They were simple illustrations similar to what you might see on English plates. I spent hours imagining who might have walked down that path, lived in that cottage or sat on that secluded bench.

Cape Lookout, Oregon 2009

Southern France, 2007

St. Chinian, France 2007

Mt. Hood, Oregon 2009

Cape Disappointment SP, Ilwaco,Wa. 2005

Odds & Ends

After one of these trips I always end up with a variety of images that just don’t seem to fit into any group except Odds & Ends.

Battery Park, Charleston, SC

Worker – Market Street

The Vegetable Bin – East Bay Street

Marine Drive

Georgetown, South Carolina

BBQ Sign

Boiled Peanuts – MMMM Good!

The Big Nasty

The Hominy Grill can’t make “the Big Nasty” fast enough. The place is packed for lunch and dinner to get this fried chicken, homemade biscuit, cheddar cheese and sausage gravy concoction. There is a Cardiologist just two doors down the street.

Carolina woods near Fayatteville, NC

Carolina woods near Fayatteville, NC

Wendi’s dear friend, Sharon Valentine, has a lovely cabin in the middle of these woods near Fayetteville, North Carolina where she is restoring almost 6,000 acres of forest and wetlands.

Wendi – Aikens House

Exchange Building – Broad Street

Thanks for tuning in. Bruce

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter is where the first shot of the Civil War was fired. Decommissioned after WWII, the fort is now under the watchful eye of the National Park system. Positioned at the mouth of Charleston Harbor, the only way to access the fort is by boat. A lovely three hour tour on a sunny day.

Spirit of the Lowcountry

Dock Cranes - Charleston Harbor

Charleston from the water.

Fort Sumter from the water.

Canon - Fort Sumter

The boat waits.

Edisto Island, South Carolina

Beach - Edisto Island, South Carolina

The beach at  Edisto Island, South Carolina is more remote, a little more rugged and less swanky then some of the other coastal areas, but still pretty nice.

Beach - Edisto Island, South Carolina

Country Road - Edisto Island, South Carolina

Beach Trail - Edisto Island, South Carolina

Marsh - Edisto Island, South Carolina

Edisto Island, South Carolina

A Few Critters.

Manatee - Blue Springs, Florida

During the winter in Blue Springs, Florida, when the river gets cold, the Manatee congregate near the warm springs to stay warm. These gentle giants like the temperature to be between 66 and 72.

Heron - Beaufort, South Carolina

He’s either shrugging or drying his wings!

Pelican - Georgetown, South Carolina

Pelican - Georgetown, South Carolina

In the fishing ports along the inland waterway, the pelicans are so cocky you walk up to within a foot before they fly off.

Pelican - Pawleys island, South Carolina

Rusty - Seagrove, North Carolina

No matter how close I got, Rusty never moved.

Charleston Walking Tour – Part 3

The Walking Tour has been great fun and I’ve bearly scratched the surface. The offical guide book has over 100 stops and even that doesn’t touch them all. I’ll wrap this up with just a few points of interest.

Fire Insurance

In the 1700’s fire fighting was a neighborhood affair and homeowners were required by law to have buckets and ladders on hand at all times. Looters used fires as an opportunity to burglarize houses, but punishment was severe. If apprehended looters were to be ” pilloried, have their ears cut off and forfeit four times the value of the stolen items”. In 1736, America’s first Fire Insurance Company was founded in Charleston. Each company had it’s own men and equipment and were obligated to fight fires in houses bearing their insignia, similar to the one above.

8 Chalmers St. - The German Fire Co.

The 19th century gave rise to volunteer fire stations like this one, the German Fire Company, at 8 Chalmers Street. They tended to be  ethnic in nature, as were the neighborhoods. We tend to forget that the idea of America as an ethic melting pot was a very real thing during Colonial times. On any given day in Charleston one might hear English, French, Spanish, Dutch, Swedish, German and Yiddish, as well as many African and Caribbean dialects. A prime qualification for postage service was being multilingual.

34 Meeting Street

Built in 1760, this was the home of Lord William Campbell, the last Royal Governor of Carolina. In 1775, as angry mobs took to the street and were “tar & feathering” Tories, Campbell fled the city by way of a small boat in the creek that ran behind the house.

37 Meeting Street

This house was the headquarters of General P. G. T. Beauregard, commander of Charleston’s defenses. Beauregard was famous for his dashing Creole hair which abruptly turned gray during the siege. It is rumored that it was not stress that effected his black hair but instead the blockade’s disruption of the import of French hair dye.

48 Meeting Street

The curved spikes along the top of this wrought iron fence were added as a defensive measure after the Denmark Vesey Revolt of 1822. Vesey, a free black carpenter, organized a widespread slave revolt, but was informed on at the last minute. He and 34 others were hung near the Battery.

2 Meeting Street

The world famous Conchologist, Dr. Edmund Ravenel, built this as an office in the mid-1800s. An acquaintance of Edgar Allen Poe, Ravenel was the model for William Legrand in Poe’s “The Gold Bug”.

59 Meeting Street

According to the census of 1790, 34 slaves lived at 59 Meeting Street, more then any other downtown residence, so it is ironic that Edward Ball was living here when he wrote “Slaves In The Family”. The 1998 National Book Award winner for non-fiction. Of all slaves granted freedom, when it was relatively easy do so, about a third were mulatto children and about three fourths of adult slaves granted freedom were the women who had given birth to them.

“The mulattoes one sees in every family exactly resemble the white children. and every lady tells you who is the father of all the mulatto children in everybody’s household. but those in her own she seems to think fell from the clouds, or pretends to think so”. Mary Boykin Chesnut

61 Meeting Street

U.S. District Judge Julius Waties Waring was living here in 1947 when he ruled to let blacks vote in the state’s Democratic primary and in 1950 when he voted to integrate the South Carolina schools. Both cases were heard at the Post Office building just up the street, with the NAACP being represented by Thurgood Marshall. Waring was ostracized by the Charleston elite and harassed by the local populace. After a cross was burned in front of the house he was forced to move north.

54 Hasell Street

This was the main house of the Rhettsbury Plantation, just north of the walled city, and the home of Col. William Rhett, best remembered for his pursuit and capture of the infamous Stede Bonner, “the Gentleman Pirate”. Bonner and his rowdy crew were hung and buried next to the Exchange Building at the Battery.

Fort Sumter House

And finally, room #122 in the Fort Sumter House is the place where, on February , 1942, then Ensign John F. Kennedy and suspected Nazi spy, Inga Arvad were recorded by the FBI doing the Buddy Bump. Unbeknown to the star-crossed lovers, Inga was suspected by the FBI of being a Nazi spy and was the subject of close surveilliance under the personal supervision of Director J. Edgar Hoover.

“In The Kingdom of Kitsch”

The Arrival Arch.

Every now and again you come across places in this world that are just plain wrong. This “South Of the Border” is not in Tijuana, but is located on Rt. 95, just across the line between North & South Carolina. It stands proudly as the capital of the Kingdom of Kitsch. This baby’s got everything. A restaurant, convention center, diner, fireworks store, hot dog stand, two t-shirt shops, an ice cream store, steak house, another restaurant, an 18 hole miniature golf course ( adeptly named the “Golf of Mexico”), an amusement park, a kiddie railroad, a 200 foot sombrero tower, parachute jump, car wash, gas station, a 300 room motel and acres of gifts shops. And oh what gift shops! They have aisle after aisle after aisle of every useless item Taiwan has ever produced, from cheap back-scratchers to pet rocks. Every employee is named Pedro. And the restaurants, oh the restaurants! Wendi and I have had Mexican food from Maine to Matzalan, from Canada to Cozemel and believe me not all of it was good. But “South of the Border” has set a new benchmark for lousy lunches. In fact, meals that I had once thought were horrendous, I now realize were not that bad. But you know it’s going to be bad just driving in. Signs like “You Never Sausage A Place” and the age old “Chili Today, Hot Tamale” are dead giveaways. And yet, you still can’t stop yourself. As the center of the Universe of Tawdry this place has it’s own gravitational force. Billboards stretch out along the freeway at two mile intervals for twenty miles in all directions. Like the strobes along the sides of the runway they lead you safely onto the tarmac. This Frito Bandito Black Hole of sleaze sucks in everything in it’s vicinity. Bottom line, I give it five stars. The kids will love it.

Pedro's Concrete Bazaar.

Pedro's Concrete Bazaar.

Hot Tamale!

Trigger

The Sombrero Tower.

The Leather Shop.

Necessary Services.

Me & Pedro. Photo by Wendi

Charleston Walking Tour – Part 2

188 Meeting Street - Market Hall

Built in 1841, Market Hall is a Roman Revival building that has brownstone and bronze friezes of rams and oxens to indicate it’s proximity to meat market over which it used to seat.

146 Church Street

St. Philip’s was organized in 1680. The credentials and character of early Church of England clergyman was dubious. The first pastor of St. Philips was censured for baptizing a bear cub at a drunken ceremony. John C. Calhoun, neither a Charlestonian or a church member, is buried here. After having his body on display for three weeks his plantation was considered too remote to transport it!

17 Chalmers Street

Built in 1694, the Pink House was first a tavern and then a brothel. In the 18th century Chalmers Street was the center of Charleston’s red light district.

6 Chalmers Street

6 Chalmers Street

Now a museum, 6 Chalmers Street was the Slave Auction Mart established after an 1856 ordinance prohibited street auctions. Slaves were generally brought here from great distances, either by ship, cattle train or on foot. They were keep here for weeks to be fattened up prior to the sale. In the back were livestock type pens in which the slaves were shackled. Each had a loose curtain on the front to prevent potential buyers from perusing them before they were restored to health. Slaves would attempt to interact with the buyers, trying to tell owners, with good reputations, about their good work habits and, conversely, trying to dissuade cruel owners from purchasing them. Another constant plea was to not break up families.

Chalmers Street

The street is named after Dr. Lionel Chalmers who, along with other Edinburgh physicians, had to battle ignorance as well as rampant epidemics. A popular smallpox cure of the day was to place the patient’s feet into the abdominal cavity of an incised fowl while applying a mixture of honey and “dry white dog dung” to the throat! Sure, that’ll work.

22 East Bay Street - The Old Exchange Building

The Old Exchange, 1771, is the last British constructed building in America. The Declaration of Independence was read to an exuberant crowd of rebels from these steps in 1776.

Old Exchange Building - Interior

While on a tour of the newly formed states, George Washington was entertained in this room in 1791.

Boone Hall Plantation

John Boone arrived from Barbados with the first fleet of colonists in 1670. Boone Hall is at the site of the original 150 acre King Charles II land grant. At it’s heyday it grew to over 1700 acres and was the first farm to learn to rotate crops. It is presently America’s oldest working plantation and still comprises over 730 acres. It also housed the South’s largest brickyard, producing over 1,000,000 bricks a year. Virtually every brick in Charleston came from Boone Hall.

Boone Hall

Boone Hall Mansion

This is the 4th building on this site. The first three fell victim to fire, earthquake and hurricanes.

The Avenue of Oaks

The Avenue of Oaks was planted by John’s son Thomas in 1743. Thomas insisted that he be buried next to the trees so that he could watch them grow.

Slave Shack

Over 130 slaves worked this plantation for over 200 years.  The skilled and house slaves lived in these brick cabins. The wooden field hand shacks have long since been destroyed. Slaves and their descendants lived in these cabins until the 1940’s.

Slave Shacks

Slave Shack Window

These cabins were locked at night. Long puzzeled by the lack of calories in the slave’s diet recorded by the owners, historians have discovered that slaves would crawl out through the chimney at night and hunt for animals in the woods to augment their meager diets.

Rest Stop