Category Archives: Tourism

Graffiti – Valencian Style

We Only Fight For The Future

We Only Fight For The Future

Graffiti is pretty much everywhere here. The highways and railway lines are completely covered with “tagging”. That’s when someone paints their name or “handstyle” everywhere they can find an open space. This type of graffiti clings to underpasses, bridges, abandon buildings, old silos and crumbling walls. Anywhere the author can work unmolested for a sufficient length of time.

Tom

Tom

El Puig

El Puig

Sent Blacky

Sent Blacky

There seems to be some loose rules around these things. For example, writing over someone else’s tag is a sign of disrespect and could ignite a whole “tagging war” or too closely copying someone else’s style would be considered déclassé. I tend to think of this style as vandalism and the province of unemployed youth. Although, they are certainly ambitious in their scope, application and placement. We have seen some that was 80’ off the ground on the side of a 10 story building. To me, this cartoonish three dimensional block type all seems to be a variation on the same theme.

Sagunt

Sagunt

I’m intrigued by the more illustrative style, primarily for it’s cleverness and artistic acumen. Although, I suppose that depends on whether or not it’s your building they’re painting on.

Benny

Benny

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red Riding Hood

Swing

Swing

Winky

Winky

I See You

I See You

Clown Cones

Clown Cones

No Bullfighting

No Bullfighting

Eyeball

Eyeball

Vertigo

Vertigo

Open Door Here

Open Door Here

I have no idea!

I have no idea!

 

Tossa de Mar

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My good friend and spiritual advisor Big Dog Beller has been telling me for years to go to the Costa Brava and stay in Tossa de Mar. We finally made it and he was right, of all the coastal resort towns we have seen, it is the most charming. A little remote, not too crowded, nice shopping district, some quaint family run restaurants, two small beaches and a terrific walled old town. The place has kind of an old South Beach feel, but with history. We even stayed at the Hotel Florida.

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The road winds northeast up the coast for about 30 km, hugging the shore and offering fabulous views of coves and inlets with the clearest water you have ever seen.

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CB17Tossa de Mar’s additional claim to fame is as the location of the 1951 hit movie “Pandora & the Flying Dutchman” starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. There are pictures all over town of Ava cavorting with the locals while Frank Sinatra, her husband at the time, maintains a somewhat jealous vigil on the activities. They have even erected a statue of her on the ramparts overlooking the town.

Poster

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

This is the Black Madonna. She’s the big attraction here. According to legend, the Black Madonna was discovered in the year 880 by some shepherds who had seen a strange light and heard music coming from a cave in the mountain. From then on the statue has remained on Montserrat Mountain and become one of the most famous pilgrimage sights in Spain. We waited in line for over an hour just to walk past.

The Black Madonna

The Black Madonna

In 1025, Oliba, Abbot of Ripoll and Bishop of Vic, founded a new monastery at the hermitage of Santa Maria de Montserrat. The little monastery soon began to receive pilgrims and visitors who contributed to the spread of stories of miracles and wonders performed by the Virgin.

Between French wars, world wars and civil war the monastery has suffered from destruction and abandonment numerous times over the centuries but continues to bounce back. Most notably, the Spanish Civil War saw the violent suppression of the Abbey of Montserrat. Of the 278 priests and 583 religious men and women killed in Catalonia by Republican forces, 22 were monks of the Abbey of Montserrat. 

During the rule of Francisco Franco, the Abbey of Montserrat was seen as a sanctuary for scholars, artists, politicians and students. Franco’s men were often waiting for wanted people a few miles down the road.

Today, Montserrat’s modernization appears to be complete.

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

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Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

The main altar in Montserrat Monastery

There are miles of candles.

There are miles of candles.

Everyone takes their picture in front of the Basillica with hands raised. I’m not sure what that’s about.

Picture taking

Picture taking

Lining up the shot.

Lining up the shot.

Trollys in Montserrat

Trolleys in Montserrat

Mailbox

Mailbox

Situated atop the craggy pinnacle of Montserrat Mountain, the sheer scale and splendor of the place is jaw dropping. There are funiculars to the various peaks and hiking trails linking it all together.

View From The Funicular

View From The Funicular

View from the train.

View from the train.

Wendi at St. Joan's peak.

Wendi at St. Joan’s peak.

Monistrol de Montserrat

We stayed in the village of Monistrol de Montserrat and took the train up from there. Of course, the more adventurous can spend the day hiking up the mountain in true pilgrim style.

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

Monistrol de Montserrat

The streets in Monistrol are so narrow that people have to scurry into doorways to let vehicles pass.

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

A tight squeeze in Monistrol de Montserrat

Out of the way.

Out of the way.

A little too tight.

A little too tight.

Fun For Foodies

When traveling you are forever comparing everything to home. What do people here do differently then we do? We love food markets. They are a quick overview of what locals eat and what they call everyday things we are very familar with. Also, how other people combine things we would never think to put together. For example, I’ve discovered you can drop a fried egg on just about anything from a hamburger to a pork chop to a plate of spaghetti.

One of the things we have discovered that the Spanish do really well is the urban mercado. We have been to four so far, two in Madrid and two in Valencia, and they have all been exceptional. Mercados are very busy places where people congregate to socialize and purchase every kind of vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, spice, nut, cheese or wine imaginable. And a thousand other things you never even thought of. Most have small counters where we can purchase coffee or a drink as well as tapas and small samples of just about anything.

Eat

The Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid is a little spendy but a great place for lunch.

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

The Mercado San Anton, also in Madrid, is in the middle of the trendy gay district and is a huge social gathering spot with terrific tapas and wine vendors.

Mercado San Anton in   Madrid

Mercado San Anton in Madrid

The Mercado Colon in Valencia is the swankiest of the markets we went to. Recently renovated, it is mostly flower vendors and small stalls run by fancy restaurants.

Marcado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

By far the most exceptional Mercado we visited was the Mercado Central in Valencia. It is huge and filled with everything you never imagined you wanted.

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Iberian ham can be very expensive. Serrano ham is a little more affordable.

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I’ve seen about 20 varieties of shrimp.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Wafer thin ham and bacon is everywhere.

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham haunches at the Mercado Central in Valencia

These ham haunches can cost between $120 and $300.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Very scary fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I am definitely not eating this.

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More snacks at the Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Seafood snacks at Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Welons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Melons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Madrid

Madrid is the capital and largest city of Spain with a population of roughly 3.3 million. This makes it the third largest city in the European Union. Its influences in politics, education, media, arts, entertainment, environment, fashion, science and culture all contribute to its status as one of the world’s major global cities.

We were lucky enough to find a great little hotel called Lapepa in the middle of the Museum District that couldn’t possibly have been better. It was clean, quiet and walking distance from just about everything we wanted. Paula and and whole staff were friendly and amazingly helpful.

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Villa Real

View from our window -The Villa Real

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a big city and can be a little intimidating until you get your bearings. We have come to love the “Hop On Hop Off” City Bus Tours. They are a smokin’ deal. For only 8 euros you can ride all day and get on and off anywhere it stops. It gives you a great feel for the layout and stops at all the major attractions. The upper deck is open air so on a nice day they can’t be beat. After just one rotation you feel like you have a pretty good idea where everything is and where you’d like to return.

Get on the bus Gus

Get on the bus Gus

Madrid2

Banca de Espana

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Puerta del Sol

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Congreso de los Diputados

Madrid5

Torres de Colon

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Torres de Colon

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Cervantes and Don Quixote

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Queen Isabella

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Santa María la Real de La Almudena

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

Metropolis1

The Metropolis Building

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We saw so much great art in Madrid it was overwelming. The three big hitters are the Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Museo Reina Sofia. There’s a great discount pass online, The Paseo del Arte card, that includes all three and gives you a scheduled admission to the Prado, which means no waiting in line. There are also, at least, 50 smaller museums that are equally outstanding. You could spend a month here just looking at art.

Wendi was adament about going to the El Rastro street market, considered by many as the largest street market in Europe and it is huge. With an estimated 3500 market stalls it seems to stretch for miles down little streets and alleys. And it is packed tighter then a can of sardines. And hang onto your panties. I caught two different people trying to reach into my camera bag. I wasn’t particularly concerned as there wasn’t anything in it but an old map, still it’s a little disconcerting. That been said, we did have a great time. There is a lot of excitement and a million things to look at. I do have to offer one caveat though. Cheap t-shirts dominate. Like almost every street market we’ve been to, if China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Korea and Guatemala stop making cheap crap this place will be closed up tight in no time.

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket18

El Rastro Street Market

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Making friends at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket13

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket11

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket9

El Rastro Street Market

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The frame street at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket4

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket3

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket1

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket2

El Rastro Street Market

The Tabernas are pretty cool too. They’re a little like Spanish Sushi Bars in that the top of the bar is lined with all sorts of little dishes from olives to small open faced sandwiches that run from 1 to 5 euros each. The barman gives you a drink and you just point at what you want and they tally it up when you’re done. It’s affordable and great fun, very social with people coming and going and everyone talking at once.

Travana

The girls at Taberna Txakolina on Calle Cava Baja

The Saturday we were in Madrid was the annual Gay Pride Parade and it dominated the entire museum district of the city. There were thousands of partiers in the streets from all over Europe. By 10am police were rerouting traffic, closing down major intersections and roundabouts for a 6pm parade. All the major fountains were turned off to keep overheated partiers out of them. The parade consisted of hundreds of LGBT groups and organizations from every city in Spain. Cross-dressers were turned into minor celebrities and graciously had their pictures taken with anyone who asked. The crowd had a ball.

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

GP5

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP8

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP7

Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

 

The Need For Standardization

The Dog's Cajones

The Dog’s Cajones

As you can see from the storefront above, the Spanish seem to like dogs. There are quite a few around and they all seem fairly friendly. We are in an urban area with a lot of people so I understand the need to control pets and in particular where they leave “Nature’s Callings”. But there needs to be some standardization in signage so that everyone is on the same page. Without a clear and concise message these things are open to interpretation. Things can spin out of control. The result could be pet anarchy. This sign is a perfect example of a generic municipal sign. The dog depicted is completely bland and figureless. This could be any dog, which is the point. There is no room for error.

Perfectly Generic Dog Sign

Perfectly Generic Dog Sign

On the other hand, I’m not even sure that this one is a dog. From what I can see of it behind the red bar it’s a wolf. Of course nobody wants a wolf on the beach. What are you crazy?

Wolf?

Wolf?

Now this one’s a puppy, a friendly puppy. Who doesn’t like puppies?

Adorable Puppy

Adorable Puppy

This one is just sad. Why have they decided to embarrass this poor dog? I think that we’re all smart enough to know why we don’t want the dog on the beach. Do we really have to humiliate the poor creature? And what’s with the perfect dog in the lower right? Go ahead just rub it in a little bit more.

Just Humiliating

Just Humiliating

This one’s not a dog. It’s a hand puppet, right?

Hand Puppet

Hand Puppet

This dog’s just a little crazy. To me the sign says “No Ditzy Dogs On The Beach”.

Crazy Dog

Crazy Dog

I find this one particularly troubling. This is not a generic dog. This is a very specific dog. We were so certain that they were singling out a particular canine that we went around the neighborhood showing people the picture and asking them if anyone knew this dog and what exactly had he done. He looks like a pretty nice dog to me.

Whose Dog Is This?

Whose Dog Is This?

They keep telling us, “he went away” or maybe it was, “you should go away”.

Jose The Good Dog

Jose The Good Dog

The Troops Are Mobilizing Around Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames is a picturesque town in the interior of the province of Castellón.

Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames - Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames

Vilafames With The Castle In The Distance

Vilafames - Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames

Vilafames

The town, which has been declared of Spanish Cultural Interest, is topped by the ruins of an old Moorish castle that was conquered in 1233 by James 1.

Castle

Castle

This small town has three large churches. The most impressive being the Iglesia Parroquial.

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Iglesia Parroquial

The town’s real claim to fame is the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés, a terrific little museum in a splendid XV century Gothic palace. Opened in 1972 by the renowned art critic D. Vicente Aguilera Cerni, it was the first museum dedicated to contemporary art in Spain. It is home to more than 500 artworks, spanning the various artistic currents from the Valencian artistic renewal of the twenties to the present. The artists exhibiting in the museum have been referred to as Spain’s artistic vanguard for the last 80 years, both nationally and internationally.

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

While I was editing these pictures it occurred to me that we are a little like the soldiers marching behind El Cid. Slowing moving over hardscrabble earth from one dusty narrow laned village to the next under the ever-present punishing glare of the Spanish sun. I also noticed that besides similarities there are some striking differences as well.

Like the 11th century warriors of lore we have absolutely no idea where we are headed, but then they had El Capitan to point the way. We have Edith and you all know how well that’s working.

While the troops didn’t eat particularly well they did have a pretty good idea what it was. We too are foraging for food as we go, but haven’t found it necessary to slaughter any animals, just yet. On the other hand, we have had meals placed in front of us that have left us scratching our heads in bewilderment. I requested what I thought was a pork chop the other day and got a nicely garnished 2 pound lump of grilled fat. Can’t wait to have that again.

Unlike the defenseless peasants, we haven’t witnessed any decapitations or had to face any psychotic adversaries wielding swords. In the 21st century the weapon of choice is the automobile. I have very nearly been run over twice now and been screamed and beeped at by half the population.

It isn’t just drivers though. Ticket sellers in train stations seem to find us extremely dim witted and annoying. By the time the train leaves the station we are so confused and anxiety ridden that we are certain we are on the wrong train, headed in the wrong direction and when the conductor checks our tickets he too will begin to yell at us and extricate us from the locomotive leaving us stranded at the next Podunk stop until we can find another ticket seller and begin the process anew.

But I exaggerate, this really hasn’t happened that many times.

Like soldiers trudging over the sun-baked plains of Aragon we have had to stop frequently to replenish our electrolytes. While the Knights of Vivar probably drank stale water from old goatskins we tend to consume copious quantities of cappuccino, cervasa and vino blanco. And, of course, there is the ever-present liter bottle of mineral water.

Water Stop

Water Stop

Very Limited Town Square Parking

Very Limited Town Square Parking

Which brings me to my final observation. Prayer.

Saint Jude - The Patron Saint Of Lost Causes

Saint Jude – The Patron Saint Of Lost Causes

People in the 11th century prayed a lot. Besides issues involving the afterlife, they prayed for crops. They prayed that the marauding soldiers wouldn’t steal their crops and kill them all. They prayed for it to rain and they prayed for it to stop raining. They pretty much prayed for everything.

We pray too. We pray for bathrooms. Clean bathrooms. Oh yes, and parking, we pray for parking so we can get out of the car and go to the bathroom.

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El Rullo – A nice little restaurant with a very clean bathroom.

Our prayers have been answered.

 

Peniscola

We spent a toasty afternoon in Peniscola, a terrific little seaside city with a great beach and promenade. It was a hot day and the beach was covered with sunbathers and multicolored umbrellas for miles.

Peniscola Playa

Peniscola Playa

Peniscola

Stock Image

The beach sits at the bottom of the old town which clings to a rocky promontory that is crowned with the city’s big attraction, the Castell del Papa Luna. The castle was built in the late 13th century by the infamous Knights of Templar, but really made it’s mark as the residence/hideout for Pope Benedict XIII, i.e. Papa Luna.

The Church of the Castle

The Church of the Castle

Luna was named Pope during the Great Schism that split the Papacy in the 14th century, but was deposed in 1414. He lived here until he died in 1423 and complained about losing the job until the bitter end.

Papa Luna greets all visitors

Papa Luna greets all visitors

Because of the Castle’s position, being surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean, some have called Luna “Pope of the Sea”.

From the ramparts towards the beach

From the ramparts towards the beach

Lighthouse from the main entrance

Lighthouse from the main entrance

Chapel Door

Chapel Door

To the top lookout

To the top lookout

From the ramparts out to sea

From the ramparts out to sea

From the ramparts soulth to the harbor

From the ramparts south to the harbor

Across the Old Town

Across the Old Town

Peniscola’s fame was reinvigorated in 1961 when Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren arrived to film the epic spectacular EL Cid.

El Cid 1961

El Cid 1961

A little footnote for you film buffs. Sophia sued because her name is below Charlie’s. The suit read, “It is impossible to determine or even to estimate the extent of the damages which the plaintiff will suffer.” Maybe a whisper touchy?

My trusty companion braves the afternoon heat

My trusty companion braves the afternoon heat

 

Got To Go To Elceigo

On the way to Bilbao we passed through La Rioja, a province that is to Northern Spain what Sonoma and Napa are to Northern California. We stopped for the night in Elceigo.

The Cathedral in Elceigo

The Cathedral in Elceigo

The entire region is dotted with hundreds of wineries. Imagine that in the midst of all this you’d like to separate your business from the riff raff. What do you do? Well, if you’re the Marques de Riscal winery, you take a look up the road to Bilbao and think, “Hey, if the Guggenheim can do it, why not us?’  Then you pick up the phone and call “1800GetFrank” and in one bold stroke you elevate your medium sized vino factory above all comers and transform it into to a world class destination complete with extensive tours, every hour, in 5 languages, a great big gift and wine shop, a five star hotel, café, super spa and a renowned restaurant.

Frank Gehry In Elceigo

Frank Gehry In Elceigo

The Frank Gehry designed building sits at the top of the hill glimmering in the sun. Like a giant magnet it sucks in buses and cars from all over the continent. It is a force of nature, when you see it shining on the horizon you just can’t help but stop. And I don’t even drink wine.

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Sundial

Sundial

Marques de Riscal Winery - Detail

Marques de Riscal Winery – Detail

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Just be patient

Just be patient

Marques de Riscal

Marques de Riscal

Marques de Riscal Winery and Restaurant

Marques de Riscal Winery and Restaurant

All roads end at the wine tasting.

At the wine tasting

Wendi and our trusty tour guide.

 Bottoms Up

We Hate Edith

Meet Edith

Meet Edith

We downloaded an app in Holland called NavFreeNL and it worked so great that when we got to Spain we downloaded NavFree Spain. NavFree speaks to us with a very refined female British accent so we have named her Edith after a dear friend in Northern England who is intelligent and extremely well organized. We have quickly discovered that the GPS Edith is none of these things. In fact, the GPS Edith is slow, dim witted and couldn’t find quicksand if she where buried to her neck in it.  And to make matters worse she’s a big fat liar.

Recently we were going to an intercity address in Bilbao to meet a friend of a friend. I transferred the address from my notebook into the phone and Edith led the way. Edith, being a little slow, has a tendency to point out exits just after you have passed them so working with her requires quite a few uturns, but this country has a lot of roundabouts so we have learned to compensate. We’re just like the Griswolds in European Vacation.

No matter, we have made it to Bilbao and have begun winding our way through the narrow streets in the old town. Only now the streets are getting narrower and with the height of the buildings we find ourselves in passageways that the sun never reaches. The doorways and alleys are filling up with pimps and streetwalkers. The police presence has increased.

Just a little scary.

Just a little scary.

We are clearly not in Kansas anymore and everyone is staring at us like we are foreign missionaries who have been beamed in from an alien church social. It feels as though people are slowly beginning to encircle the car. Right in the middle of this seedy decaying urban jungle our anxiety level has reached DefCom 5 when Edith proudly announces, “You have reached your destination.” Wendi, who’s a little nervous at this point, turns and says, “Bruce, get me out of here. NOW.” A few rights, a couple lefts, we burst out into the sunlight and find ourselves on a narrow passage that runs along the bank of the river. I’m not even sure it’s a road, most probably a pedestrian walkway, but we won’t be turning back at this point. Up ahead I see two well dressed men holding leather notebooks, talking with each other and pointing towards a dilapidated storefront and I think, architects or maybe developers, but clearly educated. I pull up next to them, roll down the window and say in the calmest voice I can muster, “Do you speak English?”. NO!

Undeterred I thrust my notebook at them gesturing wildly at the address written on the page. They take the notebook, study the address and begin to have a discussion about it. Two very scruffy North Africans wander over from a park bench and join the conversation. Now a nasty looking street person with some kind of psychotic disorder staggers up and stands a little off to one side keeping a close eye on the strange activities.

The four men are all passing my notebook around and talking at the same time as they gesture wildly. The whole group is doing a sort of dance now as they keep turning in complete circles clearly looking for some sort landmark or escape route perhaps. Finally, they all stop talking. One of the black men takes my notebook, leans into the car window and in absolutely perfect British School English says, “I am very sorry Sir, we don’t really know where this is, but it is not near here”. He then, very precisely, lays out a long and circuitous route that will take us across a bridge to the other, far more civilized, side of the river. Where we clearly belong.