Category Archives: Travel

Alleys = Paths

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In a previous posting I talked about my lifelong obsession with paths and county lanes. These old cities, with houses and businesses packed so close together, are filled with an abundance of narrow streets and alleys. Before the days of cars and trucks, these same lanes began as much traveled paths. They were small but bustling thoroughfares filled with people, animals and carts.

Today they have taken on a much different connotation, especially for tourists. We all get anxious when we feel displaced and on unfamiliar ground. A lot of people are very fearful of getting off the perscribed route. Some folks won’t travel at all for fear of finding themselves on unfamiliar territory. While alleys can be a welcome shortcut for locals they can also be a forbidding mystery for visitors. They can be a comfort for residents but filled with potential risk and danger for strangers who have very little idea where they lead or what potential danger may be lurking around the curve or at the far end. And yet I’m drawn to these dark passages, forever wondering how they fit into the immediate geography.

Now I’m not reckless or crazy, I don’t go trudging down alleys after dark. But, like most scary things around us, I find that if I try to overcome my natural reluctance and attempt a lane or two I usually learn a lot about the jigsaw puzzle around me.

The Rule of Two

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I have only been able to find two references to the Rule of Two. In one instance it is a bidding guideline for Bridge and the other is in Star Wars where the Rule of Two states that there would be only two Sith at one time, a Master and an Apprentice. In Dutch culture, however, I can find nothing particular or overly significant about the number 2. but signs of the Two are everywhere. Never three, rarely one and fours are only pairs of two. I mentioned this to a Dutch friend and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I showed them numerous examples and the clear evidence that it is an almost constant design and decorating principle, but they were completely surprised as if they had never noticed before. But with the evidence so prevalent how can that be?  Perhaps I’ve stumbled onto one of those secret code systems where people send messages to each other by moving objects in the window or leaving curtains half open.

Wendi says that I’m wrong. There is no conspiracy here they’re just neatniks, plain and simple. The only thing they are signaling from their front windows is “Look how tidy I am”.

A Little Limburger?

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We didn’t think that our Dutch Experience would be complete without a journey to the southern tip of Holland. We headed out for Maastricht, a very busy little city on the River Maas in the province of Limburg.

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

One of Holland’s oldest towns it’s surrounded on three sides by Germany and Belgium. Between the French, Germans, Romans, Spanish, Goths, Gauls, Papists and miscellaneous angry hordes it has changed hands many times over the centuries. To this day it still seems a little under siege, only now it’s tourists and probably not marauding mercenaries or religious zealots. The tourist promoters refer to it as the “Sunniest Town in Holland” and that may it true.  Much like South Dakota may be a whisper more tropical than North Dakota. In fact, it’s the only time we’ve needed an umbrella. Damp but fun none the less.

We’re here primarily to see the Bonnefantenmuseum, an amazing structure designed by Italian architect Aldo Rossi.  An interesting guy, he argued that a city must be studied and valued as something constructed over time and as such it holds our “collective memory”.

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

On to  ‘s-Hertogenbosch

S'Hertozenbosch Market Square

S’Hertozenbosch Market Square

‘s-Hertogenbosch was the birthplace and home of one of the greatest (twisted) painters of the northern Renaissance, Hieronymus Bosch, who’s painting  The Garden of Earthly Delights will still blow your mind 530 years later. And not in a good way.

Group of unknown German art students

Group of unknown German art students

While there some friends organized a great boat trip on the Binnen-Dieze, the city’s underground inner canal system. Apparently the canal had been an open sewer for centuries until in the 1960’s the city set out on a 25 year restoration project. Today fish swim in the water.

These are part of the Armada, a housing development designed by British architect Anthony McQuirk. From the air the eleven building project resembles a fleet of Spanish Warships moving across the water.

The Wendi Files

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The Wendi Files:

I’ve been kicking around with Wendi for quite awhile now. When I was editing pictures the other day I realized that over the years, picture-by-picture, image-by-image, slowly but inevitably, I’ve turned into the chronicler of all things Wendi. While perusing the files it quickly became apparent the she has totally encompassed my entire interest and attention. I’m sort of a photographic stalker. People in Holland must be thinking, “Who’s that woman with the photographer following her around.” Shades of Gloria Swanson.

And the thing is she’s just not that gosh darned interesting. Don’t take me wrong she has her moments. That time with the bottle washer noises in the Sultan’s Palace. Or when she got drunk on that God Awful green stuff in Bruges. Sure they were great times, but to return home each day with fifty frames of the same person. I don’t think it’s natural. What do you think?

Maastricht

Maastricht

Adult Education:

She’s a sponge with Attention Deficit Disorder. Her thirst for mental input is unquenchable. Between taking pictures, sorting pictures, uploading pictures, checking on Facebook, checking email, QR Coding, “GPS”ing, Trip Advisoring and Googling everything in the world it’s nonstop.  the Iphone is her most perfect accessory. It keeps that hot wire to the brain firmly in place.

The Crazy Hour:

Just like a cat she’s got a Crazy Hour. It’s sometimes a little longer, but the symptoms are always the same. Elevated metabolism, heightened awareness, peculiar facial expressions and extremely wacky behavior complete with physical pratfalls. Like a Labrador Retriever, run, run, run, sleep, run, run, run, sleep.

Hey, Look This Way:

Sure I point out all these characteristics, but I’m the enabler. I’m the guy running around saying, “Stand over here”, “Look this way”, “Say Gouda”. Perhaps I’m the one with ADD and she just tolerates me.

Enough

Enough

Ordinary Pictures

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So my daughter sends me note and says “ The pictures are all lovely Dad, but where are the Ordinary Pictures?”

By that I assume she wants to see the everyday machinations of our European experience. A back stage pass, if you will, that enables you to pull back the curtain and get a glimpse of our glamorous doings. Lunch is always a good place to start.

Lunch with Bruce & Wendi

While exploring West Friesland we stopped into Medemblik for lunch and choose the De Vliegende Kraai. The only thing that “The Flying Crow” had to recommend it over it’s competitors was the fact that it was open.

De Vliegende Kraai

De Vliegende Kraai

As you can see the interior is clean and serviceable. A  80’s mix of café and lounge.

Interior

Interior

Today’s special is a sandwich of “goat cheese with walnuts and honey”.

Interior

Interior

We ordered the Club Sandwich simply because we recognized the name “Club Sandwich”. When you can’t identify anything on the menu, in a country that eats body parts you weren’t even aware of, we have found that it’s best to latch onto a recognizable item as if it were a life preserver in a raging sea. You will also notice that I only have half a sandwich. That is because, especially at lunchtime, we try to split everything. (Well, not the coffee.) I think that we’re particularly well suited for this.  Wendi eats like a parakeet and I’m cheap and a little chubby. It’s perfect for me. I get to exercise my cheapness while telling myself I’m curing my chubbiness. The only problem is that Wendi never seems to order what she wants but instead always defers to what she thinks I might want. Cool huh?

Club Sandwich

Club Sandwich

Koffee

Koffee

This is the lovely gal that cooked, served and cashiered. She said that it’s quiet this time of year but with the huge amount of boaters in the summer this place will be packed with bloodthirsty mosquitoes and pesky Germans, or was that…

Waitress - Medemblik

Waitress – Medemblik

More Ordinary Pictures

Chilly In Copenhagen

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I thought the Dutch were tough. They’re whimps compared to the Danes. I haven’t been this cold in 20 years and they’re telling me it’s down right balmy. It’s 15 F out there and then an icy wind starts to blow. It creeps up your back and makes your jeans as penetrable as tissue paper. Do you think it slows these people down? Hell no! It’s spring in Denmark. They’re biking and walking and window shopping and setting at outdoor cafes with cold beer. The construction workers in front of our hotel started at 6am. They must have been trying to beat the afternoon heat. Nobody even notices the temperature. That’s the reason I’m complaining to you, the Danes don’t know what I’m talking about.

A frozen Nyhaven.

A frozen Nyhaven.

Hot or cold Copenhagen is a terrific town. It’s got a nice pulse with a lot of color and a youthful vibe. Cars and bikes and trucks and pedestrians all vying for dominance, and yet somehow cooperating with each other. Walking at night or taking public transport, although freezing, is relatively stress free as this is Europe’s safest city.

Copenhagen has lots of courtyards and private passages from one street to the next. I was intrigued with them 20 years ago and find that I still am.

There are a few things that every tourist is obligated, by law, to see.

And lots of shopping.

Nervous Shopper

Nervous Shopper

A Raid On Odense (the D is silent)

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Take me now! You Girly Man.

Take me now! You Girly Man.

We have sailed into Odense, Denmark. Named for the Norse god, Odin, this must be the epicenter of Viking culture. As it turns out this is more the birthplace of Denmark’s favorite son, Hans Christian Andersen, then a Viking encampment. Our dear friend and Danish host, Dea, has informed us that Vikings were mostly farmers and all this talk about rape and pillaging is pure myth. That been said, I would much rather keep some of my illusions in tact and think of Vikings as the spitting image of their Gods; fierce, courageous and brooding.

St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

St. Canute’s Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke)

The history of St. Canute’s Cathedral does very little to dispel the Viking myth. King Canute and Prince Benedict were both slaughtered by angry peasants on the altar of nearby St. Alban’s Priory in 1086. Arriving at the site to collect her dead husband’s remains, Queen Adela said the small church emminated a golden light. Pilgrims soon began to show up to have their infirmities cured. Never ones to let let good propaganda go to waste, the Catholic Church canonized King Canute in 1108 and moved the Saint’s remains into the newly constructed Cathedral. And the miracles just keep on coming.

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

Sunbathers at the Radhus 26 F

We’ve had a few snow flurries in Denmark. Mostly the air has been clear and sharp, but winter is still with us. The sun stays low in the sky and the trees haven’t  begun to soften their mark on the surroundings. 

16th and 17th century timber houses are scattered throughout the old town.

Finally, the “What the Hell Is It?” section.

I asked a lot of people what this is. Either nobody knew or thought I was an idiot for asking.

Rope Thingy.

Rope Thingy.

These are the Danish version of French balconies. Actually, they’re pretty cool and really open up a room.

French Balconies

French Balconies

These devices come in a variety of designs. They have a mirror on each side and allow you to set in the house and keep an eye on anything happening up and down the street. Apparently this is a very popular pastime in Denmark.

Nosey Neighbor Spyware

Nosey Neighbor Spyware

A Quick Look Around Sneek

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Waterpoort

Waterpoort

Sneek is where we are situated. It is one of the Friese elf steden ( eleven Frisian cities ) that form a network tying the province together with roads, rails and canals. With all it’s canals, Sneek is the heart of the province’s water sport culture.

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Built in 1613, the Waterpoort, or watergate, formed part of the city wall and connected to the city with the harbor. It is now a Rijksmonument or National Heritage site in the Netherlands.

Waterpoort

Waterpoort
Waterpoort with Schuitje

Waterpoort with Schuitje

City Hall

City Hall

Pet Heron

Pet Heron

So I’m standing next to canal taking pictures and this heron walks up next to me. He was completely unafraid. I swear he was just curious to see what I was looking at.

Badhuisgracht 15

Badhuisgracht 15

I googled the address and found that Badhuisgracht 15 is for sale for the meager sum of 447,000 euros.($578,820.30) That’s reduced from 479,000 euros.($620,257.10) Pretty hefty for a 2 bedroom, one bath.

Is any city complete without a carnival?

Whirlygig

Whirlygig – Click Here

Carnivals are for kids right?

Kiddie ride?

Locked and loaded.

Locked and loaded.

I’m thinking that a cute kiddie car with a ballistic missle attached is the definition of “Passive Aggressive”.

Hey, Someone Wrote On The Wall!

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I find that graffiti and wall art can be an interesting mix of clever, stupid and criminal.

Useless Fact #13: The singular form of graffiti is, in fact,  graffito, but due to lack of use graffiti is now considered either singular or plural.

Dwell Land

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They say the French know how to live and that may be true. They certainly know how to eat and drink. But the Dutch, now, they know how to plan a community. Most everywhere I look I see quality, great design, common sense and a desire to make things that are highly livable and built to last.

Intercity Canal

Intercity Canal

I took a bike ride yesterday and came upon a new development just a few blocks away. I thought I’d stepped into the pages of Dwell Magazine or Architectural Digest.

Neighborhoods and developments are all tied together with roads, waterways, bridges, foot trails and bike paths. All of which help foster a sense that we are all in this together.

Bike and foot path.

Bike and foot path.

Neighborhood bridge.

Neighborhood bridge.

Don’t get me wrong, there are spray paint cans sold here and lunkheads that know how to use them, but people do seem to share an innate respect for each others property and  the common areas they all share.

Recycle bins.

Recycle bins.

Glass, paper, plastic. These stainless steel recycle bins are at the end of the street. Clean and well organized, with easy access. The squares they sit on flip back to give access to the larger containers mounted in the ground. These receptacles are not dented, painted or pissed on.

And for the kids.

Stainless steel spider gym set.

Stainless steel spider gym set.