Category Archives: Travel

The Portland Journal _ F8

NW Neighborhood Stuff

The Northwest District is a hugely eclectic area full of distinct neighborhoods, the Alphabet District, the Pearl, Slabtown, Nob Hill, King Heights, Chinatown and probably a few more. It’s densely packed with Craftsmans, Colonials, hillside mansions, small, medium and large apartment buildings, mid-century professional buildings, ultramodern office buildings and sleek new condominiums. The Portland Streetcar’s first line (the NS Line) terminates here, connecting the district with Downtown Portland, Hillsboro, SE Portland, PDX and the rest of the world.

This is where we are staying at 1223 NW 24th Ave, in a great one bedroom, a block from the street car and close to all kinds of cool stuff. Check it out on VRBO.

NW 24th Ave

NW 24th Ave

24th

24th Street Waiting For Rehab.

NW18

backyard

An Artist’s Backyard

NW13

GarageDoor

Hillside Garage – NW Summit Ave.

NW16

This is the Bruce House. Really.

Garage2

NW17 NW14

GarageDoor2

NobHill

NW Cumberland Ave.

AlanoClub

The Alano Club

Doorway1

JoesCellar

1332 NW 21st Ave,

 

 

This dive is not actually a cellar, and nobody seems to remember Joe.

Thurman2

NW Thurman St.

Garage

NW 24th Street & NW Northrup

NW7 NW9 NW8 NW10

Useless Fact #233:  Several characters in Portland native Matt Groening’s television show The Simpsons have names based on the alphabetically named streets in the Northwest District: Ned Flanders, the bully Kearney, Reverend Lovejoy, Mayor Quimby, Milhouse Van Houten (actually in North Portland), and possibly C. Montgomery Burns[ide] (also named for the large neon Montgomery Park sign).

24th Ave & Northrup

24th Ave & Northrup

Streetcar Dog

Streetcar Dog

The Portland Journal _ F5.6

Important Messages

Anyone who writes on a wall or puts up a sign is convinced that they are sending an important messages out into the world. Messages that will attract business, change our attitude, alert us to some unforeseen danger or just make us smile.

Journey

No

WetPaint

Panties

Reincarnation

EverythingMustGo

InternetBusinessCenter

Israeli

StreetMeat_15

Wall11

Vicky

Capax

BlazerWall

Wall4

Wall6

Wall9_15

MrPlywood

Z

The Portland Journal _ F2.8

Portland’s Public Stairways

I saw a OPB documentary on Laura Foster’s book “Portland Hill Walks” about the public stairways that were built in the 1920’s along the city’s hillsides to allow easier travel between neighborhoods. These were invaluable for kids going to school and people going work or shopping. I went exploring in the Northwest Hills from the western end of NW Northrup to the top of Kings Heights and back down to NW Overton. This is what I found.

Walkway6

Walkway3

Walkway12

Walkway8

Trailhead1

Walkway17 Walkway16Walkway14Walkway7 Walkway4Walkway15

Walkway11 Walkway10 Walkway9

Portlands Stairs and Public Paths

My route was,

NW Northrup St. Stair
Connects NW Northrup Street and NW Cornell Road.
NW Summit Ave. Stair
Connects NW Summit Ave and NW Westover Road.
156 stairs 3 flights with landings between, each flight has 52 stairs.
NW Fairfax Terrace Stair
Connects NW Fairfax Terrace and NW Shenandoah Terrace.
NW Cornell Rd Stair
Connects NW Cornell Road and NW Summit Ave.
NW Overton Stair
Connects NW Cornell Road and NW Overton Street.

The Wendi Files – Norse Sagas

Wendi-Stockholm5

Viking Attitude

I’ve wandered through Scandinavia like a bit player in the Norse Sagas, those timeless myths filled with blood, battles and debauchery. Only my voyage consists of beer, buses and bargain basements. Maybe not as dangerous but just as exhausting. At this point in the trip I’m downright tuckered out. I have been trudging around after Wendi as she’s pillaged her way through Iceland, Norway and Sweden for weeks.  I’m always a couple steps slow and a few beats behind like a bass player that can’t catch up to the rest of the band. It seems she is always looking back at me with that “will you hurry up” look on her face.

Let's Go

Let’s Go

And hats! What’s with the hats? Every silly hat from Reykjavik to Stockholm has magically ended up on her head, coupled with a goofy grin. She doesn’t want to bring them home so, I suppose, that’s good.

Viking1Wendi-Stockholm2WhiteHatRaccoon RedHat PinkDaveyCrockett

Viking4 Viking3

Regardless of her proclivity for wacky chapeaus, Wendi’s enthusiasm is undeniable. She is clearly a woman on the move.

BergenOperaHouse

At the Opera House in Bergen, Norway

BergenWalk2

A stroll in Bergen

Wendi-Stockholm1

Shopping in Stockholm

Wendi-Stockholm4

On the way to the Moderna Museet in Stockholm

Car

On a ferry in Vestlandet

On the fjord ferry.

On the fjord ferry.

NorseFamily

With family in Stavanger, Norway

BergenWalk

A walk in Bergen, Norway

Rek1

Shopping in Reykjavik, Iceland

Armed with her Stockholm Card.

Armed with her Stockholm Card.

On the way to Fotografiska.

On the way to Fotografiska.

Subway station photo bomb.

Subway station photo bomb.

On the way.

On the way.

Hotorget Flea Market

Hotorget Flea Market

City Food Market.

City Food Market

The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace

Nutshell

On the Flambana in Norway

She does have quiet moments of self reflection, albeit few and far between and usually after extensive shopping or while jet lagged.

Wendi-Stockholm11

DK Department Store – Stockholm

Wendi-Stockholm8

One of twenty H&M’s in Stockholm

BluLag

Jet lagged at the Blue Lagoon in Iceland

Wendi-Stockholm10

At the Moderna Museet in Stockholm

Wet Bottom.

Wet Bottom.

With Olav, Wendi's Viking Friend.

With Olav, Wendi’s Viking Friend.

Wendi-Stockholm6

On the ferry in Stockholm

She did take time for a little work.

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, Stockholm

At Skudeneshavn, Norway

At Skudeneshavn, Norway

Haugesund, Norway

Haugesund, Norway

Rosendal, Norway

Rosendal, Norway

That’s all for now.

That's All Folks.

That’s All Folks.

That'sAll2

See you soon.

 

Stockholm – Hustle & Bustle

StockholmCardLet’s start with a travel tip. I’m always a little leery of package schemes and deals aimed at visitors, but the Stockholm Card is the exception and a great deal. This is a real godsend, which, if you keep busy, offers significant savings. It is also hugely convenient to not have to dig for cash or use a credit card everywhere you go. Besides giving you free passage on all of Stockholm’s public transportation you also get free access to over 75 major museums and major historical sites.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Our public transportation map after 6 days.

Stockholm is a big and busy city, not big and busy in an otherworldly sense like Hong Kong, New York or London. There are no skyscrapers and the church spires are still the tallest structures in town. There are no giant cloverleaf overpasses like arteries in some huge beast, but Stockholm is spread out over 14 islands with a complex overlapping transport system that incorporates ferries, buses, trams, subways, bridges, walkways and roads that tie the whole thing together.

CityMarket2

The City Food Market

CityMarket

The City Food Market

SwedeMoving1

Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

Shopping on Drottninggatan

Harbor1

In Blasieholmen

Dij3

On the ferry to Djurgarden

Harbor2

In Blasieholem

Dij5

On the ferry to Djurgarden

Harbor6

On the dock in Skeppsholem

Statue

Hotorget Square

Harbor5

Across the water towards Ostermalm

Harbor3

Across the water towards Ostermalm

Dij1

Kiosk in Djurgarden

Clock

Clock near Kungstradgarden

Old Tram Sign

Old Tram Sign

City2

Building in Ostermalm

City1

Walking in the old city.

City3

Near T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Outside T-Centralen

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, or “Old Town”, is our favorite part of the city. It is situated on the island of Stadsholmen and is one huge warren of narrow medieval streets and heritage sites. The Royal Palace, museums and 17th century churches are just steps from each other. The entire atmosphere is of a bygone era.

CafeStGeorgeMailboxes Alley2 Alley1 Alley4 Alley7 Alley6 Alley12 Alley15 Alley16 Alley17 Alley18 MenuWindow3 Window2 Window1

Stortorget was the site of the old Stock Exchange is now a lively square in the heart of the old town but in 1520 it was the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath when the Danish King tricked the Swedish Regent and beheaded more then 80 Swedish noblemen in this very square.

Stortorget

Stortorget

The Hotorget Flea Market

No trip would be complete without a flea market. The square at Hotorget is a flower and produce market all week but every Sunday it transforms to a great little second hand market. Just try to keep Wendi away. I dare you.

FleaMarket10 FleaMarket9 FleaMarket8 FleaMarket7 FleaMarket6 FleaMarket5 FleaMarket4 FleaMarket3 FleaMarket2 FleaMarket1

 

Sinking Expectations or The Very Short Voyage of the Vasa

VasaB&W4

When the Vasa was designed by two Dutch brothers in 1628 it was the largest and most heavily armed war ship in the world. With this vessel the Swedes hoped to strike fear in their enemies and control all trade on the Baltic Sea. Unfortunately, there was no engineering, as we know it, at the time and all construction was essentially done by trial and error. The massive ship proved to be just a whisper too tall and slightly too narrow. It was a lovely sunny day on August 10th in 1628 when the Vasa set out on it’s maiden voyage. In a slight breeze it listed a little to starboard, took in water through the gun ports and sank to the bottom of Stockholm harbor where it lay until being rediscovered in 330 feet of water in 1956. After a complex salvage operation and a 17 year conservation project the Vasa now sits proudly in it’s own especially designed museum.

http://www.vasamuseet.se/en/The-Ship/Life-on-board/

Vasa4 Vasa3 Vasa2 Vasa1

Vikings With Spray Paint

So, a Viking  walks into a bar with a can of spray paint…….

Graffiti Beginner Kit

Graffiti Beginner Kit

I was a little surprised with both the volume and quality of graffiti we’ve seen in Scandinavia. Reykjavik has a huge amount of young people, so I get that, but Norway is a very squeaky clean country, with strict rules on driving and public behavior, and people like it like that. We have discussed the very large quantity of graffiti, wall paintings and assorted art stickers plastered about with a couple bartenders and have been informed that it is not really thought of as graffiti, but more “Street Art”. Which is kind of cool, it raises the bar a little and opens it up to a variety of media, i.e. paint, neon, stickers, posters, etc. Let’s walk around a little.

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Stavanger

Stavanger

Bergen

Bergen

Stavanger

Stavanger

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Reykjavik

Reykjavik

Bergen

Bergen

Peek A Boo - Reykjavik

Peek A Boo – Reykjavik

Bergen

Bergen

Dockrws - Reykjavik

Dockrws – Reykjavik

Bergen

Bergen

Reykjavik

Reykjavik

Acorn - Reykjavik

Acorn – Reykjavik

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

No Lost Generation - Bergen

No Lost Generation – Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Beer In Bergen

Beer in Bergen

Good People In Bergen

Good People In Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Reykjavik

Reykjavik

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Bergen

Bergen

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Bergen

Gallery Window in Bergen

Gallery Window in Bergen

Where are all the Norwegians?

Two French Tourists

Two French Tourists

I received a comment the other day asking, “Where are all the people?” and I suppose that’s fair. I’m clearly more interested in art and architecture then I am in documenting the lives of complete strangers. That been said I would probably take more pictures of people here if we had met any Norwegians. In point of fact, with the exception of Jon who was kind enough to pick us up at the airport the day we arrived, we haven’t met any Norwegians. I know they’re here somewhere. Perhaps the gal in the supermarket is Norwegian, although her English is so perfect, maybe not.  The fella at the local snack bar is Scottish. We met a potter in Bergen who is English, went to school in South Dakota and married a Norwegian. Maybe we can meet him?  All the bartenders are English, who along with their neighbors in the Emerald Isle are clearly the world’s most avid drinkers. All the waitresses are Swedish, who since the oil boom have turned into Norway’s poor relations. And almost all the tourists are Asians, with a slight smattering of Spaniards. Oh, I almost forgot, the girl in the Tourist Bureau is Norwegian but she’s moving to Budapest in two weeks so she doesn’t really count. There are no festivals here this month and a lot of shops are closed. We have been told that’s because all the Norwegians have fled to Spain where they are assured of sunshine. Even small cities have direct flights to Malaga, Alicante, Majorca and the Canary Islands to help facilitate the mass exodus.

A Swedish Waitress

A Swedish Waitress

Once we were in Liechtenstein and asked a waitress if she was local. She laughed and said that she was Portuguese and that if we wanted to meet any Liechtensteinians we would need to go to the bank, that being both their workplace and spiritual home. That’s somewhat problematic now. With the advent of ATMs we haven’t needed to go into a foreign bank since we were in Turkey over 25 years ago. Perhaps we should go into the Sparbank in Bergen and ask, “Where the hell are all the Norwegians?”

In A Nutshell

The Flamsbanen

The Flamsbanen

We took the world famous Flamsbanen as part of the “Norway In A Nutshell” tour, which is billed as the world’s most beautiful train ride. It runs from Myrdal on the mountain plateau down to Flam on the banks of the great Sognefjorden.

Myrdal Station

Myrdal Station

Amazing Vistas

Amazing Vistas

Kjosfossen Waterfall

Kjosfossen Waterfall

Arriving in Flam

Arriving in Flam

Cruise Ship docks at Flam

Cruise Ship docks at Flam

It’s Party Time

It's Party Time

It’s Party Time

Our entire train was filled with a huge tour group from Sichuan Province China. Wendi and I were the only non-Asians on the train. I love these people. In Norway for just 16 days but the rumpus never stops.

Chan "The Ringleader"

Chan “The Ringleader”

The party began when they handed around dehydrated fish nuggets of some kind that we were encouraged to share. They devoured them. Truly the most God Awful things I have ever put in my mouth, I can still taste them.

Breakfast

Breakfast

The men cracked open a quart of single malt scotch at 8:15am and had drained the bottle in less then an hour.

Look Mountians

Look Mountains

And talk about equipment, they were a legion of picture takers. I think they must all be product testers for Sony or Samsung. And they were fascinated with snow-covered mountains. Every time the mountains came into view the entire group would leap to that side of the train and take hundreds of pictures. We were certain the car was going to tip over.

Making Memories

Making Memories

Karmøy & Stavanger

Besides being Norway’s largest island, Karmøy is commonly referred to as the “Homeland of the Viking Kings – Norway’s Birthplace. We began our visit in Haugesund, now a shipping and fishing port, it has many historical connections and was once the stomping ground of Harald Fairhair, the first King of Norway, who lived from 850 to 932 AD and was reputed to have between 11 and 20 sons who couldn’t get along with anyone, not even each other.

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Olav’s Church

Olav’s Church is at Avaldsnes, a beautiful setting and the historic site of Harald’s Royal Farm and burial mound.

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle stands on the north side of Olav’s Church. The Sagas warn that Doomsday will occur if ever the needle touches the church wall. It is rumored that the clergymen of Avaldsnes have snuck out at night and chiseled off pieces to save the world. Apparently the end is a mere 9.2 cm away.

Virgin Mary's Needle -Olav's Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle – Olav’s Church

Skudeneshavn

Situated at the very southern tip of Karøy, Skudeneshavn is a traditional fishing settlement filled with whitewashed houses from the early 19th century. Old Shudeneshaven is considered one of the best preserved small towns in Norway.

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Lady in the Park

Lady in the Park

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Back On The Road

We are back on the road and headed for Stavanger which is just across Boknafjorden. On the map it looks close, but it isn’t. Getting there involves two ferries and two of the deepest tunnels I have ever been through. They recommend chewing gum to help your ears.

Ferry3 Ferry2Ferry1

Stavanger

Originally a traditional market town, first herring, then canning and eventually oil have transformed Stavanger into Norway’s fourth largest city.

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Norsk Oljemusem – Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Gamie “Old” Stavanger

The houses along the terraced narrow cobblestone streets of this district were slated for demolition after World War II when local citizens stepped in and called for their preservation. Once the homes of sailors and tradesmen, Gamie Stavanger now has 156 lovingly restored whitewashed cottages.

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

The Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

This church is located at Borgund in Lærdal beside the Sognefjord and is the world’s best preserved stave church.

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

Borgund Stave-Church

These medieval wooden Christian church buildings were once common in north-western EuropeIt is believed, that at one point, there were between 750 and 1000 stave churches in Norway. Today there are only 28 remaining. In the Middle Ages, when people in Europe were building great cathedrals in stone, Norway developed similar construction techniques with timber. Norway had a very long tradition of wood construction for buildings, art and the production of ships. The roof structure is essentially an inverted ship hull.

Come On In

The North Door

The North Door

The decoration of stave churches is a fascinating blend of Christianity and Viking era symbols with several runic inscriptions on the church walls and the distinctive “Dragon’s Heads”, similar to those found on Viking ships, jutting out from the gable peaks. The main doorway has vine-scrolls on the pilasters and serpents and dragons on the side panels and lintel.

The Main Doorway

The Main Doorway

Runic Inscriptions

Runic Inscriptions & Animal Masks On the South Door

Medieval Stone Altar. The Altarpiece Was Painted In 1654.

Medieval Stone Altar. The Altarpiece Was Painted In 1654.

The timbers used to construct this church were felled in the year 1180. There are two factors that have accounted for the church’s longevity, it is constructed entirely on a stone foundation so that none of the wood touches the ground and also the timbers were “seasoned on the root” which draws the tar to the surface thereby preserving the wood beneath.

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

Root Seasoned Wood

More Useless But Interesting Facts

St. Andrew’s Cross:

St. Andrew's Cross

St. Andrew’s Cross

The diagonal cross-braces are named after St. Andrew who was crucified on a diagonal cross, supposedly at his own request, as he deemed himself unworthy to be crucified on the same type of cross as Jesus had been. Who knows? But one thing is clear, the whole idea captured people’s imagination. The symbol has been used on the flags of Scotland, England, Grenada, Jersey, Logrono, Vitoria, Amsterdam, Breda, Potchefstroom, Kateijk, Valdivia, Tenerife, Galicia, Jamaica, Burgundy, the Imperial Russian Navy, the state flags of Florida and Alabama, as well as, the former Indian princely states of Khairpur, Rajkot, and Jaora, just to name a few. And of course, there is the much debated Confederate flag. Although the original designer, Willian Porcher Miles, insisted he changed it from an upright cross to a saltire so that it would be more a heraldic device then a religious symbol.