Tag Archives: England

Lovely Country Lanes or Death Defying Thoroughfares?

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We’ve been to Turkey and thought that the driving was totally insane. The completely chaotic behavior of the drivers, the narrowness of the roads and the blaring horns left us rattled to the core. Then we came to Ireland and you know what? The Turks aren’t so bad.

Everyone on the left is double parked.

Everyone on the left and right is double parked.

Part of the problem is expectations. Every travel book we’ve read depicts SW Ireland as a land filled with lovely idyllic country roads and romantic windy lanes that fill the heart with joy and a longing for a simpler time when life moved slower and the whole world felt at peace. And it is.

The Beara Peninsula

The Beara Peninsula

What they neglected to inform us was that these 12’ wide roads can have speed limits as high as 80 kmh and are clogged with all manner of motor vehicles including SUVs, utility vans, cars dragging travel trailers, RVs, 35’ tour buses and 18 wheel freight trucks. And they’re used to it so you damn well better get out of the way. At a B&B in Kilkenny it was explained to us that the width of roads in Ireland was dictated by royal decree to be at least the width of two cows!

We were asked to get an insurance rider when we got here. Oh yea, I get it now. And did I mention they drive on the wrong side of the road.

Slanglish

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Set Down = Drop Off

Set Down = Drop Off

People here don’t speak English. They speak Slanglish and have great fun with the language. Sometimes there are so many rhyming couplets, alliterations and just nonsense words that I have a hard time figuring out what anyone is talking about. I’m certain that my English friends could send me books full of this stuff, but I’ll just mention a few that I hear everyday.

Cheers

I’ve heard the expression “cheers” for many years, but I had no idea that is a completely all purpose word that can mean, among other things, thank you, congratulations, your welcome, hello, goodbye, good day, good morning or good afternoon. It can be used singularly or in combination with its root meaning, as in “Cheers, thanks” or “Cheers, goodbye”. Which, to my ear sounds a bit redundant, like “thanks, thanks” or “goodbye, goodbye”. But if you use cheers as a verb or in the past tense it reverts to its more traditional meaning. You might say that you had thanked someone, where as you could never say that you had cheers’d someone.

Wee

Everything is wee. We’re in a wee country, in a wee county, in a wee village, where we’re going for a wee walk to have a wee bit of lunch at a wee restaurant.  And the subject doesn’t necessarily have to be small or charming. The only thing I haven’t heard wee combined with is wee, as in wee wee.

Ha Ha

Although there is no wee wee there is a  Ha-Ha. This  16th or 17th century invention, is a reinforced trench that stretches across a field or pasture and works like a fence that keeps sheep and cattle from wandering near the manor. But unlike a fence, it does not disrupt the vista and is almost invisible when viewed from the house out. The name refers to what you might exclaim if you stumbled across it by accident, although you’d more likely say “call 911!”

Londonderry

In 1613 the British rulers selected Derry as the site for one of their infamous “plantation” projects. Under the control of London livery companies they renamed the town Londonderry. Locals have never really taken to the name as it was seen to symbolize foreign rule and regardless of what the road signs say, have continued to call it Derry for 400 years. Recently, in an attempt at political correctness, authorities have hyphenated the name to “Derry-Londonderry”. Over here the hyphen is referred to as a stroke so now it’s become “Stroke City”.

A  Miscellaneous  Few 

A room that had a window at eye level was referred to as a “tippy toe room”.

When searching through a junk shop we were encouraged to “have a wee nosey”.

When a tour guide was off talking to someone else, we were asked to wait as he was  “having a wee bit of a gnash at the minute”.

If you need time to think about something you might have “a wander and a ponder”.

Lunch would be a “rumble corrector”.

Giving something a try might be “taking a punt”.

And needing to hurry up would be to “Get A Tic Toc On”.

 

 

 

The Wendi Files – Part 2

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Drombeg Stone Circle

Drombeg Stone Circle

The Wacky Wendi Saga Continues.

Damn, I like that girl!

On The Edge

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Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

“Like many before me, I’ve been called to the sea.” TW

Welcome to the Cliffs of Moher, Ireland’s premier disembarkation point for the netherworld. I don’t mean to demean the sheer awe-inspiring grandeur of the Cliffs. The place is indeed jaw droppingly beautiful. Sadly though, a few folks don’t just come to look, but view it as a more interactive activity. This is a hugely popular tourist attraction so it’s not really in anyone’s best interest to keep an accurate count. In 2008 there were four documented suicides, a relatively small numbers when compared to places like the London Underground which loses 150 – 200 people a year. Bear in mind, the actual number of deaths is not widely known and the vast majority are classified as accidents, but with 30 mph wind gusts and warning signs every few feet, I tend to think of it more as stupidity. We watched at least 50 people ignore the warnings in order to have their picture taken as close to the edge as possible. The last jumper was a young Estonian doctor who bought a one way ticket to Dublin, drove a rented car across the country, walked out of the parking lot directly to the cliff and, without hesitation, she leapt 750’ to the sea below. Oddly, neither the one way ticket nor the CCTV footage was enough to convince officials it was a suicide.

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

By all means don’t let my love of odd statistics scare you off.  Come to this amazingly beautiful place, but be extremely careful. I don’t know if there have been any definitive studies, but can anyone deny that a huge precipice, like a magnet, draws the mind to the edge?

Memorial - Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Memorial – Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Have A Little Trust

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On our way to Chester we passed Dunster Castle and were so intrigued by it’s amazing grandeur that we had to stop. When paying the entrance fee to was pointed out to us that if we intended to visit a few properties then the annual family membership to the National Trust was the more economical approach. That’s all Mr. Cheapskate needed to hear. We bought the membership, and began a race through Northern Ireland to get our money’s worth by visiting as many Trust properties as possible. Regardless of the motives, this scheme has allowed us to see some outstanding places and learn a lot about how the landed gentry and obscenely wealthy from as far back as the 17th century lived their lives in Northern Ireland.

Dunster Castle

Dunster Castle is a fascinating property with a long and exciting history. A stone shell keep was built on this site at the start of the 12th century. The castle survived sieges, battles, civil wars and bankruptsies.  The castle has been occupied until the late 20th century when it was turned over to the Trust.

Castle Ward

Castle Ward, built in the 1760s reflects the differing tastes of Lord Bangor and his wife. While the entrance side of the building is done in a classical Palladian style, the opposite side is Georgian Gothic. This differences in style continue throughout the interior of the house with the divide down the center.

Mount Stewart

Charles, 3rd Marquess of Londonderry’s second wife, Lady Frances Anne Vane-Tempest, was the greatest heiress of her time. This infusion of huge new wealth prompted the refurbishment and enlargement of Mount Stewart. While spending £150,000 on the refurbishment, £52 million in today’s money, they only gave £30 to famine relief in Ireland in the 1840s, illustrating the inhumanity that existed within Ireland at the time.

Hambletonian

The horse in this very large painting is Hambletonian, the 18th century’s most celebrated racehorse. He was owned by Sir Henry Vane-Tempest, Sir Stewart’s father in law. In a famous four mile match at Beacon Course in Newmarket on 25 March 1799, Hambletonian won by a neck and was said to have covered 21 feet in a single stride at the finish. Sir Henry had wagered the huge sum of 3,000 guineas ($300,000) on the outcome. Afterwards the horse was the subject of this painting, Hambletonian Rubbing Down, by the great equine artist, George Stubbs. The stable boy, handler and horse all appear agitated and tense. After seeing the painting some of Sir Henry’s detractors commented that it was because the horse had been whipped and treated badly in the race. When Sir Henry heard this he became so distraught that he refused the painting. The 75 year old Stubbs stood firm and refused to alter the image. Over time Sir Henry softened and eventually paid for and took possession of the painting, which today is priceless. Most recently, one of Stubbs paintings was sold by Christies for a record $36 million.

"Hambletonian Rubbing Down" by George Stubbs

“Hambletonian Rubbing Down” by George Stubbs

Downhill Demesne

After a visit in 1801, one visitor wrote of the location, “It is impossible not to regret the misapplication of so much treasure upon a spot where no suitable Desmesne can be created…where the salt spray begins to corrode this sumptuous pile of Grecian Architecture, and the imagination anticipating the distant period weeps over the splendid Ruin, a sad monument of human folly.”

Giant’s Causeway

The columns are the remains of a causeway built by the giant, Finn MacCool, who was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Finn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so that the two giants could meet.

Carrick-a-Rede

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrickarede.

Castle Coole

Castle Coole was constructed at a cost of £57,000 in 1798, equivalent to approximately £20 million today.

Florence Court

Early on the morning of March 22, 1955, 72 year old Lady Enniskillen discovered a fire on the first floor landing. She ran to nearby Killymanamly House and telephoned the elderly 5th Earl of Enniskillen , at the Ulster Club in Belfast. He is said to have cried “What the hell do you think I can do about it?”.

The Argory

In 1852 the Royal Navy troopship HMS Birkenhead.  struck the rocks off Danger Point, South Africa. Prior to this, evacuation was a “every man for himself affair”. When Captain Shelton saw the sailors rushing to the lifeboats cried “women and children first”. This has come to be known as “the Birkenhead Protocol”.

The Argory

The Argory

You Should Have Been Here Friday

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County Down

County Down

If there are nicer people in this world then the Irish, we sure haven’t met them. Not only are they friendly, helpful and curious, but also seem to take it as a personal responsibility that we enjoy their country. Every person we’ve met has apologized for the weather as if the country’s climate has had the effrontery to disappoint us in some way. To a man, everyone has said “You should have been here last Friday”. We were here last Friday and it was indeed beautiful. Apparently it was the most beautiful day of the year so far and perhaps has the potential of being the most beautiful day of the year to come. We’re from a place with unsettled everchanging weather and have come to accept beautiful days as a special treat and not the norm. But then you don’t really come to a place like Ireland for the weather. You come for the charming people, the green hills, the music and, of course, the beer.

We’re situated in Rostrevor, County Down, Northern Ireland, on the banks of the Carlingford Lough, at the foot of the Mourne Mountains. A lovely place criscrossed with very narrow winding roads and longstanding stone walls.

The Ross Monument and Carlingford Lough -Rostrevor, NI

The Ross Monument and Carlingford Lough -Rostrevor, NI

The lovely home we’re in sits next to a monument for Major General Robert Ross. The Major General was born in Rostrevor and attended Trinity College in Dublin before being sent to American in the War of 1812 to avenge American  atrocities in the Battle of York (Toronto) where American troops were accused of many acts of vandalism, looting and burning of both private & public property.

Ross quickly captured Washington and burnt down the White House. Rumor has it that he intended to build a home for himself on the site but was shot at the Battle of Baltimore and fled to Halifax, Nova Scotia where he died and is buried. A villian to some but a hero to many.

The Ross Monument - Rostrevor, NI

The Ross Monument – Rostrevor, NI

Hogwarts and Beyond

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Ducklings

Ducklings

The Cotswolds

The Cotswolds are a range of hills in southwestern and west-central England, an area roughly 25 miles wide by 90 miles long, filled with lovely restored mill towns, some as old as the 17th century.

The Gloucester Cathedral

Over 1300 years old, the Gloucester Cathedral is an outstanding example of Gothic Architecture. In recent years it has become even more famous as Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

The Doc’s In

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Port Wynn is the mythical home of the cantankerous Doc Martin, lead role in the hugely successful BBC series of the same name. The town in the show is, apparently, the only location in Cornwall where the sun shines everyday and is populated exclusively with eccentric and good hearted folk. In actuality, Port Wynn is Port Issac, a small and very remote fishing village that was fading in obscurity until Bert, Louisa and the Doc arrived. Now an invading hoard of tourists fills the small B&Bs and roams the streets looking for any evidence of their idols. Well, we were lucky enough to be there while they were filming season 5. We were part of a group of about 50 adoring fans that was shuffled through the streets, like a well mannered and extremely quiet flock of sheep. I must admit, it was pretty exciting.

Bert & Louisa

Bert & Louisa

Port Issac’s real charm is it’s maze of narrow streets, some only 18″ wide, the madcap jumble of late 19th century fisherman’s cottages and the small but pristine harbor.

The View From Above

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View from the Tate MuseumView from the Tate Museum

London is a big crowded city. Driving and parking in it is a nightmare, walking it is exhausting, taking cabs costs a small fortune and the Underground is exactly that, underground, but the Double Decker Bus, now there’s a sightseeing vehicle.

St Pauls

St Pauls

The buses provides an affordable and fun conveyance that stops at almost every corner while providing a unique perspective of the city and everyone in it.

If You Can’t Beat’em, Join’em!

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Graffiti Tunnel - London

Graffiti Tunnel – London

In London, like all cities the world over, graffiti continues to spread like a rash on most every available surface. One approach the city governors have arrived at is to designate this nasty little underground passageway as a legal “Graffiti Zone”. The walls have turned into an everchanging tapestry of art, social commentary, vulgarity and all manner of craziness.

 

Has it worked? Well, no. Artful vandals still roam the city streets.