Tag Archives: Fishing

Disaster, Mayhem and Mini-Monsters

As usual there just isn’t enough time to get to everything so here’s a few sad and peculiar tales that got lost in the shuffle.

‘Black Friday’

St. Abbs

In October of 1881 the fishermen of the North Sea could not have predicted that a European windstorm, the strongest of all extratropical cyclones, was moving their way. Because of the unsettled weather the fishermen of Eyemouth had been unable to put to sea all that week. By Friday the 14th everyone’s stores were exhausted and bait was going stale. The morning broke clear and calm yet the barometer was still abnormally low.  The younger men knew that if they didn’t put out to sea there would be no food for their families until, at least, Monday evening.  The older fisherman cautioned against it, but the impatient younger men, with hungry families and loans to repay, ignored the more experienced advice and, one by one, raised their sails and moved out of the harbor. They sailed nine miles out to the fishing grounds unaware that the storm had already broken along the coast further south. Suddenly a horrible stillness fell over everything, the sky darkened and the storm clouds began to roll in. Most of the fishermen, having no time, cut their lines and turned into the wind, while others made a run for Eyemouth.

Eyemouth Harbor

On the shore, whole families gathered and watched through the driving spray and lashing rain as their fathers, brothers and husbands crashed into the rocks along the coast. By the end of the mornings 189 fishermen had died, 129 from Eyemouth. Every family was effected as 250 children were left fatherless.

Sculptor Jill Watson

This small and very heartfelt bronze memorial, created by sculptor Jill Watson, stands on the bluff above the harbor where the women and children gathered and watched their loved ones perish on the rocks just off shore during the Eyemouth Fishing Disaster of 1881.

Sculptor Jill Watson

Lives Of The Rich & Famous

In our age of celebrity we tend to think of the rich and famous as having charmed lives free of stress, worry and anxiety. Lives in which everything they could ever want is right at their fingertips. Lives filled with adoration and privilege. They appear to look good, feel good and fill their trouble free days with unimaginable joy. I think this notion is completely illusionary and with the exception of an incredibly lucky few, has no basis in reality. If it’s not true now, then it definitely wasn’t true in the 16th &17th centuries. Here’s just a few examples. 

Archibald Campbell, 1st Marquess of Argyll

Archibald was a man of immense power who shifted his political allegiances between the Protestants and Catholics as the prevailing winds blew. Even his father referred to him as a man of craft and falsehood. Eventually he found himself on the wrong side and in 1660 Charles II had him arrested and executed. His famous squint and gloomy countenance earned him the nickname of “Archibald the Grim”.

Lady Arabella Stuart

This potential heir to both the Scottish and English crown was amazingly wealthy. Her evil mother kept her in a semi-imprisonment for most of her life. When Arabella finally gained a little freedom she eloped without her cousin, the King’s, consent. He was so furious he imprisoned her in the Tower of London were she starved herself to death.

James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton

Morton was always a troublemaker. He infamously introduced the guillotine to Scotland. After trying to de- stabilize the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots he was convicted of taking part in the murder of her beloved Lord Darnley 13 years earlier. He was publicly executed with the very same guillotine he had brought to the country.

Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley

An heir to both the English and Scottish thrones, Henry was married to his cousin Mary, Queen of Scots. Mary crowned him King of Scots. Although adored by Mary, he quickly proved himself to be spoilt, arrogant, unstable and completely incompetent. He was murdered just one year later at the age of twenty one.

James Graham, 1st Marques of Montrose

Montrose was another man of privilege that just couldn’t make up his mind. First he was a Royalist, then a Clan Chief, then a Covenanter and then a Royalist again. Always in trouble, Jimmy hid out in the Highlands, then England, then France and eventually returned to Scotland only to be captured and brought to the High Street in Edinburgh where he was hung, cut down while still alive, had his entrails cut out and set ablaze, and finally was drawn and quartered.

Strange Things

Peculiar creatures are not restricted to the windows of Haarlem. They have, apparently made their way to Scotland.

Buddies
Napoleon

 Just another guy that wanted to rule the world.

Karmøy & Stavanger

Besides being Norway’s largest island, Karmøy is commonly referred to as the “Homeland of the Viking Kings – Norway’s Birthplace. We began our visit in Haugesund, now a shipping and fishing port, it has many historical connections and was once the stomping ground of Harald Fairhair, the first King of Norway, who lived from 850 to 932 AD and was reputed to have between 11 and 20 sons who couldn’t get along with anyone, not even each other.

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Haugesund

Olav’s Church

Olav’s Church is at Avaldsnes, a beautiful setting and the historic site of Harald’s Royal Farm and burial mound.

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Olav's Church

Olav’s Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle stands on the north side of Olav’s Church. The Sagas warn that Doomsday will occur if ever the needle touches the church wall. It is rumored that the clergymen of Avaldsnes have snuck out at night and chiseled off pieces to save the world. Apparently the end is a mere 9.2 cm away.

Virgin Mary's Needle -Olav's Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle – Olav’s Church

Skudeneshavn

Situated at the very southern tip of Karøy, Skudeneshavn is a traditional fishing settlement filled with whitewashed houses from the early 19th century. Old Shudeneshaven is considered one of the best preserved small towns in Norway.

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Lady in the Park

Lady in the Park

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn

Back On The Road

We are back on the road and headed for Stavanger which is just across Boknafjorden. On the map it looks close, but it isn’t. Getting there involves two ferries and two of the deepest tunnels I have ever been through. They recommend chewing gum to help your ears.

Ferry3 Ferry2Ferry1

Stavanger

Originally a traditional market town, first herring, then canning and eventually oil have transformed Stavanger into Norway’s fourth largest city.

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Norsk Oljemusem – Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Gamie “Old” Stavanger

The houses along the terraced narrow cobblestone streets of this district were slated for demolition after World War II when local citizens stepped in and called for their preservation. Once the homes of sailors and tradesmen, Gamie Stavanger now has 156 lovingly restored whitewashed cottages.

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

Gamie Stavanger

The Doc’s In

Port Wynn is the mythical home of the cantankerous Doc Martin, lead role in the hugely successful BBC series of the same name. The town in the show is, apparently, the only location in Cornwall where the sun shines everyday and is populated exclusively with eccentric and good hearted folk. In actuality, Port Wynn is Port Issac, a small and very remote fishing village that was fading in obscurity until Bert, Louisa and the Doc arrived. Now an invading hoard of tourists fills the small B&Bs and roams the streets looking for any evidence of their idols. Well, we were lucky enough to be there while they were filming season 5. We were part of a group of about 50 adoring fans that was shuffled through the streets, like a well mannered and extremely quiet flock of sheep. I must admit, it was pretty exciting.

Bert & Louisa

Bert & Louisa

Port Issac’s real charm is it’s maze of narrow streets, some only 18″ wide, the madcap jumble of late 19th century fisherman’s cottages and the small but pristine harbor.

Cloverdale to Hebo

I tend to think that Oregon has one of the nicest shorelines in America.   Generally when I drive up the coast, I try to stay as close to the water as possible. That usually means turning off 101 north of Lincoln City and driving up through Pacific City, Cape Kiwanda, Netarts and Oceanside, then sneeking into Tillamook the back way. This time I decided to change my usual route and stayed on 101N as it twists inland through Cloverdale and Hebo.

Hebo, Oregon

Fishing is what we do.

Cloverdale, Oregon

Downtown Cloverdale

Cloverdale, Oregon

Downtown Cloverdale

Cloverdale, Oregon

The monument on this much neglected corner in Cloverdale should be anything but. It's there to commemorate hometown hero, Kenneth L. Reusser (1920 – 2009). Kenneth, a United States Marine Corps aviator, is considered the most decorated Marine Aviator in history, having flown 253 combat missions, earning 59 medals, including two Navy Crosses while flying in World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War. He is the only aviator to survive being shot down in all three wars. An American hero for sure.

Approaching Garibaldi