Tag Archives: Holland

Alleys = Paths

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In a previous posting I talked about my lifelong obsession with paths and county lanes. These old cities, with houses and businesses packed so close together, are filled with an abundance of narrow streets and alleys. Before the days of cars and trucks, these same lanes began as much traveled paths. They were small but bustling thoroughfares filled with people, animals and carts.

Today they have taken on a much different connotation, especially for tourists. We all get anxious when we feel displaced and on unfamiliar ground. A lot of people are very fearful of getting off the perscribed route. Some folks won’t travel at all for fear of finding themselves on unfamiliar territory. While alleys can be a welcome shortcut for locals they can also be a forbidding mystery for visitors. They can be a comfort for residents but filled with potential risk and danger for strangers who have very little idea where they lead or what potential danger may be lurking around the curve or at the far end. And yet I’m drawn to these dark passages, forever wondering how they fit into the immediate geography.

Now I’m not reckless or crazy, I don’t go trudging down alleys after dark. But, like most scary things around us, I find that if I try to overcome my natural reluctance and attempt a lane or two I usually learn a lot about the jigsaw puzzle around me.

The Rule of Two

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I have only been able to find two references to the Rule of Two. In one instance it is a bidding guideline for Bridge and the other is in Star Wars where the Rule of Two states that there would be only two Sith at one time, a Master and an Apprentice. In Dutch culture, however, I can find nothing particular or overly significant about the number 2. but signs of the Two are everywhere. Never three, rarely one and fours are only pairs of two. I mentioned this to a Dutch friend and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I showed them numerous examples and the clear evidence that it is an almost constant design and decorating principle, but they were completely surprised as if they had never noticed before. But with the evidence so prevalent how can that be?  Perhaps I’ve stumbled onto one of those secret code systems where people send messages to each other by moving objects in the window or leaving curtains half open.

Wendi says that I’m wrong. There is no conspiracy here they’re just neatniks, plain and simple. The only thing they are signaling from their front windows is “Look how tidy I am”.

A Little Limburger?

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We didn’t think that our Dutch Experience would be complete without a journey to the southern tip of Holland. We headed out for Maastricht, a very busy little city on the River Maas in the province of Limburg.

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

View from room 209 at the Hotel De Pauwenhof

One of Holland’s oldest towns it’s surrounded on three sides by Germany and Belgium. Between the French, Germans, Romans, Spanish, Goths, Gauls, Papists and miscellaneous angry hordes it has changed hands many times over the centuries. To this day it still seems a little under siege, only now it’s tourists and probably not marauding mercenaries or religious zealots. The tourist promoters refer to it as the “Sunniest Town in Holland” and that may it true.  Much like South Dakota may be a whisper more tropical than North Dakota. In fact, it’s the only time we’ve needed an umbrella. Damp but fun none the less.

We’re here primarily to see the Bonnefantenmuseum, an amazing structure designed by Italian architect Aldo Rossi.  An interesting guy, he argued that a city must be studied and valued as something constructed over time and as such it holds our “collective memory”.

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

Bonnefantenmuseum

On to  ‘s-Hertogenbosch

S'Hertozenbosch Market Square

S’Hertozenbosch Market Square

‘s-Hertogenbosch was the birthplace and home of one of the greatest (twisted) painters of the northern Renaissance, Hieronymus Bosch, who’s painting  The Garden of Earthly Delights will still blow your mind 530 years later. And not in a good way.

Group of unknown German art students

Group of unknown German art students

While there some friends organized a great boat trip on the Binnen-Dieze, the city’s underground inner canal system. Apparently the canal had been an open sewer for centuries until in the 1960’s the city set out on a 25 year restoration project. Today fish swim in the water.

These are part of the Armada, a housing development designed by British architect Anthony McQuirk. From the air the eleven building project resembles a fleet of Spanish Warships moving across the water.

The Wendi Files

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The Wendi Files:

I’ve been kicking around with Wendi for quite awhile now. When I was editing pictures the other day I realized that over the years, picture-by-picture, image-by-image, slowly but inevitably, I’ve turned into the chronicler of all things Wendi. While perusing the files it quickly became apparent the she has totally encompassed my entire interest and attention. I’m sort of a photographic stalker. People in Holland must be thinking, “Who’s that woman with the photographer following her around.” Shades of Gloria Swanson.

And the thing is she’s just not that gosh darned interesting. Don’t take me wrong she has her moments. That time with the bottle washer noises in the Sultan’s Palace. Or when she got drunk on that God Awful green stuff in Bruges. Sure they were great times, but to return home each day with fifty frames of the same person. I don’t think it’s natural. What do you think?

Maastricht

Maastricht

Adult Education:

She’s a sponge with Attention Deficit Disorder. Her thirst for mental input is unquenchable. Between taking pictures, sorting pictures, uploading pictures, checking on Facebook, checking email, QR Coding, “GPS”ing, Trip Advisoring and Googling everything in the world it’s nonstop.  the Iphone is her most perfect accessory. It keeps that hot wire to the brain firmly in place.

The Crazy Hour:

Just like a cat she’s got a Crazy Hour. It’s sometimes a little longer, but the symptoms are always the same. Elevated metabolism, heightened awareness, peculiar facial expressions and extremely wacky behavior complete with physical pratfalls. Like a Labrador Retriever, run, run, run, sleep, run, run, run, sleep.

Hey, Look This Way:

Sure I point out all these characteristics, but I’m the enabler. I’m the guy running around saying, “Stand over here”, “Look this way”, “Say Gouda”. Perhaps I’m the one with ADD and she just tolerates me.

Enough

Enough

Ordinary Pictures

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So my daughter sends me note and says “ The pictures are all lovely Dad, but where are the Ordinary Pictures?”

By that I assume she wants to see the everyday machinations of our European experience. A back stage pass, if you will, that enables you to pull back the curtain and get a glimpse of our glamorous doings. Lunch is always a good place to start.

Lunch with Bruce & Wendi

While exploring West Friesland we stopped into Medemblik for lunch and choose the De Vliegende Kraai. The only thing that “The Flying Crow” had to recommend it over it’s competitors was the fact that it was open.

De Vliegende Kraai

De Vliegende Kraai

As you can see the interior is clean and serviceable. A  80’s mix of café and lounge.

Interior

Interior

Today’s special is a sandwich of “goat cheese with walnuts and honey”.

Interior

Interior

We ordered the Club Sandwich simply because we recognized the name “Club Sandwich”. When you can’t identify anything on the menu, in a country that eats body parts you weren’t even aware of, we have found that it’s best to latch onto a recognizable item as if it were a life preserver in a raging sea. You will also notice that I only have half a sandwich. That is because, especially at lunchtime, we try to split everything. (Well, not the coffee.) I think that we’re particularly well suited for this.  Wendi eats like a parakeet and I’m cheap and a little chubby. It’s perfect for me. I get to exercise my cheapness while telling myself I’m curing my chubbiness. The only problem is that Wendi never seems to order what she wants but instead always defers to what she thinks I might want. Cool huh?

Club Sandwich

Club Sandwich

Koffee

Koffee

This is the lovely gal that cooked, served and cashiered. She said that it’s quiet this time of year but with the huge amount of boaters in the summer this place will be packed with bloodthirsty mosquitoes and pesky Germans, or was that…

Waitress - Medemblik

Waitress – Medemblik

More Ordinary Pictures

A Quick Look Around Sneek

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Waterpoort

Waterpoort

Sneek is where we are situated. It is one of the Friese elf steden ( eleven Frisian cities ) that form a network tying the province together with roads, rails and canals. With all it’s canals, Sneek is the heart of the province’s water sport culture.

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Along the Harinxmakade

Built in 1613, the Waterpoort, or watergate, formed part of the city wall and connected to the city with the harbor. It is now a Rijksmonument or National Heritage site in the Netherlands.

Waterpoort

Waterpoort
Waterpoort with Schuitje

Waterpoort with Schuitje

City Hall

City Hall

Pet Heron

Pet Heron

So I’m standing next to canal taking pictures and this heron walks up next to me. He was completely unafraid. I swear he was just curious to see what I was looking at.

Badhuisgracht 15

Badhuisgracht 15

I googled the address and found that Badhuisgracht 15 is for sale for the meager sum of 447,000 euros.($578,820.30) That’s reduced from 479,000 euros.($620,257.10) Pretty hefty for a 2 bedroom, one bath.

Is any city complete without a carnival?

Whirlygig

Whirlygig – Click Here

Carnivals are for kids right?

Kiddie ride?

Locked and loaded.

Locked and loaded.

I’m thinking that a cute kiddie car with a ballistic missle attached is the definition of “Passive Aggressive”.

Hey, Someone Wrote On The Wall!

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I find that graffiti and wall art can be an interesting mix of clever, stupid and criminal.

Useless Fact #13: The singular form of graffiti is, in fact,  graffito, but due to lack of use graffiti is now considered either singular or plural.

Dwell Land

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They say the French know how to live and that may be true. They certainly know how to eat and drink. But the Dutch, now, they know how to plan a community. Most everywhere I look I see quality, great design, common sense and a desire to make things that are highly livable and built to last.

Intercity Canal

Intercity Canal

I took a bike ride yesterday and came upon a new development just a few blocks away. I thought I’d stepped into the pages of Dwell Magazine or Architectural Digest.

Neighborhoods and developments are all tied together with roads, waterways, bridges, foot trails and bike paths. All of which help foster a sense that we are all in this together.

Bike and foot path.

Bike and foot path.

Neighborhood bridge.

Neighborhood bridge.

Don’t get me wrong, there are spray paint cans sold here and lunkheads that know how to use them, but people do seem to share an innate respect for each others property and  the common areas they all share.

Recycle bins.

Recycle bins.

Glass, paper, plastic. These stainless steel recycle bins are at the end of the street. Clean and well organized, with easy access. The squares they sit on flip back to give access to the larger containers mounted in the ground. These receptacles are not dented, painted or pissed on.

And for the kids.

Stainless steel spider gym set.

Stainless steel spider gym set.

“It’s The Ijlst We Can Do.”

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The sun came in and out today so we decided a short road trip was in order. It’s a little windy and cold, 29 – 30F, but very beautiful.

My God the folks are hearty around here. In all the little towns we passed through, everyone, 9 to 90, goes everywhere on bicycles. Bright red hands and faces peddling against a 15 mph headwind. Tough. Way tougher then us.

The Center of Ijlst

The Center of Ijlst

Our first stop was Ijlst. I’ve heard it pronounced 10 times and still can’t get it right. A lovely little bedroom community now, at times it is a stop on the famous Elfstedentocht, the legendary ice skating marathon on the Friesland canal system. The race is 124 miles long and encompasses eleven cities. Our route was similar but somewhat shorter and warmer and involved frequent stops for coffee.

Ijlst

Ijlst

Bakery - Ijlst

Bakery – Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill 2 - Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill 2 – Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill - Ijlst

Lumber Mill Windmill – Ijlst

Hindaloopen

Lockkeepers House - Hindeloopen

Lockkeepers House – Hindeloopen

Makken

Canal Locks at Makken

Canal Locks at Makken

Workum

Art Gallery - Workum

Art Gallery – Workum

The View From Staveron

Ijsselmeer

Ijsselmeer

Even The Off Ramps Look  Nice

N354

N354

A Rainy Day In Leeuwarden

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Leeuwarden St. Bernard

Leeuwarden St. Bernard

It’s not really drizzle. But then it’s not really rain. It’s rizzle. And with rizzle you have to persevere. In this case persevering constituted a short drive to Leeuwarden, the capital of Friesland. Leeuwarden’s most celebrated daughter was probably Mata Hari, a Dutch exotic dancer, courtesan, and accused spy who was executed by firing squad in France under charges of espionage for Germany during World War I.

Mata Hari

Mata Hari

This is a lovely little city despite the wind and cold and rizzle. Nice lunch, small shops, culture and beer.

Leeuwarden

Nieuwestad – Downtown Leeuwarden

Leeuwarden Cheese Shop

They got cheese.

Wendi_Leeuwarden

Coffee at the Fire Cafe

Keramiekmuseum Princessehof is an amazing structure and has a huge collection of Asian and European ceramics and tiles which, quite frankly, can make me a little nervous. When I was a kid we weren’t allowed anywhere near the “Good Dishes”. This is an entire palace full of the “Good Dishes”.

Keramiekmuseum - Leeuwarden

Keramiekmuseum – Leeuwarden

But then you get to the attic and they have life size contemporary pieces.

Yellow Dog -Keramiekmuseum

Yellow Dog -Keramiekmuseum

Boy -Keramiekmuseum

Boy -Keramiekmuseum

Just a little wacky.