Tag Archives: Norway

A Quick Scandinavian Drive-By

We did a quick swing through Oslo and Helsinki. Unfortunately my camera froze up when I was leaving Scotland and I’ve been lost without it, like a ship without a rudder, like Lewis and Clarke without Sacajawea, Ying without Yang. It’s my guiding light, the thing that helps me keep the world in focus, no pun intended. Until I replaced it in Finland, I had to rely on my phone. Can you imagine, my phone! I’m a professional photographer not a telephone operator. Consequently, all I was able to put together was a sort of Mulligan Stew of images, but I have a new camera now so further crisis should be averted.

Oslo

Oslo Opera House

Founded in 1040, Oslo is the capital and most populous city of Norway. With just under 700,000 people, it is the fastest growing major city in Europe. The city is also the hub of Norwegian trade, banking, industry and shipping. In 2012 fDi magazine ranked Oslo number one in terms of quality of life among European large cities in the European Cities of the Future study. According to the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU)’s Worldwide Cost of Living study in 2013, it tied with Melbourne, Australia as the fourth most expensive city in the world.

The Nobel Peace Center

Oslo Harbor

Frogner Park

Frogner Park

Frogner Park contains bridges, fountains and the well-known Vigeland or sculpture installation created by Gustav Vigeland between 1924 and 1943.

The Monolith – Frogner Park

Frogner Park

The Norsk Folkemuseum

Oslo is dotted with an assortment of Museums from Fine Art to Vikings. We decided to spent some time at the Norsk Folkemuseum, one of the world’s oldest and largest open-air museums, with 155 traditional houses from all parts of Norway and a stave church from the year 1200.

Norsk Folkemuseum

While there I discovered a bit about the Norwegian weather. It seems that with the exception of a short window of normalcy in the spring and fall, Norway has essentially two seasons, light and dark. It seems to me that a long season of 18 to 22 hour daylight sandwiched with another long stretch of 18 to 22 hour nighttime would create a certain level of anxiety.

And like the small flame at the top of a gas well, people need a way to burn off the excess adrenaline created by long periods of sleeplessness juxtaposed with equally lengthy periods of nonstop activity. I suppose they could chain smoke cigarettes or drink obsessively, but the Norwegians are far more practical then that.

They have decided to keep themselves busy with knitting. That’s right knitting. It is apparently a national obsession. Everyone knits, young, old, male, female, everyone!

I joke but don’t think for a minute that this was just fun and games or an idle pastime to while away the long hours. For many this was a means of survival and a source of national pride and identity.

The Exhibition Selbuvotter

Stock Image © Norsk Folkemuseum

Called two-threading knitting, it all began in the winter of 1857 when Marit Emstad knitted her first pair of Rose Mittens and wore them to church in her village of Selbu. These exquisitely handcrafted little hand warmers caught everyone’s attention and the method quickly spread from farm to farm and village to village. Families started to develop and name their own patterns and designs. Knitting became an increasingly important part of village life.

Initially in black patterns on a white background, red, blues and violets also became common for weddings, christenings and other celebrations.

In 1905 the age old production of millstones came to a halt and the mountain villagers need a new source of income. The merchant Frederik Birch turned his extensive marketing and sales network from millstones to knitwear. By the 1930s the Selbu Husflidsentral, Mitten Central, was formed to maintain strict quality control and by 1957 the export of these goods was bringing in over one million NOK a year.

The exhibit shows over 500 pairs all knitted between 2013 and 2016 to aid in the production of the Sebuvotter Book published in 2016.

Helsinki

Located on the shores of the Gulf of Finland, Helsinki has an urban population of about 1 1/4 million. The capital is by far Finland’s most populace city as well as it’s political, cultural, financial and educational center. It has one of the highest urban standards of of living in the world and was ranked the world’s most livable city by the British magazine Monocle in 2011. The 2016 the Economist Intelligence Unit’s livability survey ranked it ninth out of 140 cities. As you would expect it has great museums, terrific parks and very expensive restaurants.

Helsinki Cathedral

Uspenski Cathedral – Finnish Orthodox Church.

Sanoma Building

Soviet Era Construction

Men of Rock – Central Station

The Wendi Files – Norse Sagas

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Viking Attitude

I’ve wandered through Scandinavia like a bit player in the Norse Sagas, those timeless myths filled with blood, battles and debauchery. Only my voyage consists of beer, buses and bargain basements. Maybe not as dangerous but just as exhausting. At this point in the trip I’m downright tuckered out. I have been trudging around after Wendi as she’s pillaged her way through Iceland, Norway and Sweden for weeks. I’m always a couple steps slow and a few beats behind like a bass player that can’t catch up to the rest of the band. It seems she is always looking back at me with that “will you hurry up” look on her face.

Let’s Go

And hats! What’s with the hats? Every silly hat from Reykjavik to Stockholm has magically ended up on her head, coupled with a goofy grin. She doesn’t want to bring them home so, I suppose, that’s good.

Regardless of her proclivity for wacky chapeaus, Wendi’s enthusiasm is undeniable. She is clearly a woman on the move.

At the Opera House in Bergen, Norway

A stroll in Bergen

Shopping in Stockholm

On the way to the Moderna Museet in Stockholm

On a ferry in Vestlandet

On the fjord ferry.

With family in Stavanger, Norway

A walk in Bergen, Norway

Shopping in Reykjavik, Iceland

Armed with her Stockholm Card.

On the way to Fotografiska.

Subway station photo bomb.

On the way.

Hotorget Flea Market

City Food Market

The Royal Palace

On the Flambana in Norway

She does have quiet moments of self reflection, albeit few and far between and usually after extensive shopping or while jet lagged.

DK Department Store – Stockholm

One of twenty H&M’s in Stockholm

Jet lagged at the Blue Lagoon in Iceland

At the Moderna Museet in Stockholm

Wet Bottom.

With Olav, Wendi’s Viking Friend.

On the ferry in Stockholm

She did take time for a little work.

Gamla Stan, Stockholm

At Skudeneshavn, Norway

Haugesund, Norway

Rosendal, Norway

That’s all for now.

That’s All Folks.

See you soon.

Vikings With Spray Paint

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So, a Viking walks into a bar with a can of spray paint…….

Graffiti Beginner Kit

I was a little surprised with both the volume and quality of graffiti we’ve seen in Scandinavia. Reykjavik has a huge amount of young people, so I get that, but Norway is a very squeaky clean country, with strict rules on driving and public behavior, and people like it like that. We have discussed the very large quantity of graffiti, wall paintings and assorted art stickers plastered about with a couple bartenders and have been informed that it is not really thought of as graffiti, but more “Street Art”. Which is kind of cool, it raises the bar a little and opens it up to a variety of media, i.e. paint, neon, stickers, posters, etc. Let’s walk around a little.

Bergen

Stavanger

Bergen

Stavanger

Bergen

Reykjavik

Bergen

Peek A Boo – Reykjavik

Bergen

Dockrws – Reykjavik

Bergen

Reykjavik

Acorn – Reykjavik

Bergen

No Lost Generation – Bergen

Bergen

Beer in Bergen

Good People In Bergen

Bergen

Reykjavik

Stavanger

Bergen

Stavanger

Haugesund

Bergen

Gallery Window in Bergen

Karmøy & Stavanger

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Besides being Norway’s largest island, Karmøy is commonly referred to as the “Homeland of the Viking Kings – Norway’s Birthplace. We began our visit in Haugesund, now a shipping and fishing port, it has many historical connections and was once the stomping ground of Harald Fairhair, the first King of Norway, who lived from 850 to 932 AD and was reputed to have between 11 and 20 sons who couldn’t get along with anyone, not even each other.

Haugesund

Olav’s Church

Olav’s Church is at Avaldsnes, a beautiful setting and the historic site of Harald’s Royal Farm and burial mound.

Olav’s Church

Virgin Mary’s Needle stands on the north side of Olav’s Church. The Sagas warn that Doomsday will occur if ever the needle touches the church wall. It is rumored that the clergymen of Avaldsnes have snuck out at night and chiseled off pieces to save the world. Apparently the end is a mere 9.2 cm away.

Virgin Mary’s Needle – Olav’s Church

Skudeneshavn

Situated at the very southern tip of Karøy, Skudeneshavn is a traditional fishing settlement filled with whitewashed houses from the early 19th century. Old Shudeneshaven is considered one of the best preserved small towns in Norway.

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn

Lady in the Park

Skudeneshavn

Skudeneshavn Harbor

Skudeneshavn Warehouse

Skudeneshavn

Back On The Road

We are back on the road and headed for Stavanger which is just across Boknafjorden. On the map it looks close, but it isn’t. Getting there involves two ferries and two of the deepest tunnels I have ever been through. They recommend chewing gum to help your ears.

Stavanger

Originally a traditional market town, first herring, then canning and eventually oil have transformed Stavanger into Norway’s fourth largest city.

Stavanger

Stavanger Harbor

Norsk Oljemusem – Stavanger Harbor

Stavanger Harbor

Gamie “Old” Stavanger

The houses along the terraced narrow cobblestone streets of this district were slated for demolition after World War II when local citizens stepped in and called for their preservation. Once the homes of sailors and tradesmen, Gamie Stavanger now has 156 lovingly restored whitewashed cottages.

Gamie Stavanger

Vestlandet – Gateway to Norway

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I should begin by saying that to call Norway beautiful is an understatement on the magnitude of referring to Angelina Jole as “kind of attractive”. This place is crazy beautiful. If you like vistas of verdant forests and unspoiled tranquil inlets with villages and towns huddled on the water’s edge this is the place for you.

Our Exchange

People are always curious where we end up when we do these exchanges. We are very lucky to find ourselves in a lovely traditional Nordic country home.

We are situated on Radoy, a relatively small island just north of Bergen in the county of Vestlandet.

The Neighborhood

Walking distance of the house.

On The Road

The whole region consists of a plethora of small and medium sized islands. As the crow flys, nothing seems that far away, but unlike the birds, we are bound to the earth. Driving around means relying on a hugely circuitous network of very narrow country lanes, an assortment of bridges, both large and small, and a system of ferries that range from big ocean going vessels to tiny tow barges. The whole area reminds me of a joke we would hear as kids about an old farmer from Maine explaining to a lost tourist, “you just can’t get there from here.”. To hurry is futile. It’s all very exciting as the teeny weenie lanes wind up, down and around, past incredibly picturesque farms and homes perched on impossibly steep hillsides and tucked into snug little coves and harbors.