Tag Archives: roadtrips

Budapest – Our First Look Around

Budapest is a great big, busy and exciting city. It’s the capital and largest city in Hungary, and one of the largest cities in the European Union, with a metropolitan population of 3.3 million.

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View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

Budapest is a very beautiful place that is ranked as the most liveable Central and Eastern European city on EIU‘s quality of life index, “the world’s second best city” by Condé Nast Traveler, “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes, and the 9th most beautiful city in the world by UCityGuides.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

The Chain Bridge

The Chain Bridge

We’ve rented a great little apartment, Liesel/Pierre, in a historic building at Szervita ter 5 in the center of downtown Budapest.

Szervita ter 5

Szervita ter 5

Through here.

Through here.

Across the courtyard.

Across the courtyard.

We're on the top floor.

We’re on the top floor.

Top floor.

Top floor.

And we're there.

And we’re there.

Come In To The  Liesel/Pierre.

Now a walk around the neighborhood.

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Parizsi Utca

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Egyetemi Templom

Szervita ter

Szervita ter 9

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Szerb Utca

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Vaci Utca

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Veres Palne Utca

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Eizsebet ter

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Karpatia at Ferenciek tere 3-5

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Deák Ferenc tér

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Piarista Koz

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Petofi Sandor Utca

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Chocolate Shop

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Fat Mo’s Speakeasy

The Central Market is one of Budapest’s great institutions. It’s cavernous and bustling and filled with food, clothes, gifts, wine, a great lunch and all things Hungarian.

The Central Market

The Central Market

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The Wendi Files – Spanish Edition

Everyone seems to enjoy peeking in on what Wendi’s up to and I guess that includes me, seeing I’m her resident stalker and personal paparazzi. So here’s the Spanish Edition, not quite as quirky as Holland and certainly not as inebriated as Ireland, but wacky nonetheless.

Benicassim Train Station

Benicassim Train Station

This way

Right this way to Morella Castle.

Madrid.

Madrid.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

Nice tomatoes.

Nice tomatoes.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar

With the Giants in Morella.

With the Giants in Morella.

The Alhambra

The Alhambra

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Moving fast in Cordoba

Moving fast in Cordoba

Hey down here.

Hey, down here.

At the winery in El Ceigo

At the winery in El Ceigo

Posing at the Monastery.

Posing at the Monastery.

There's wine on the way in Valencia.

There’s wine on the way in Valencia.

Making new friends at the Parade.

Making new friends at the Parade.

 Waiting for me at IVAM.

Waiting for me at IVAM.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Dress shop window.

Dress shop window.

See the blisters

See the blisters

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Our Spanish adventure is done. We’re off to Budapest tomorrow. See you there.



Morella Castle

Morella Castle

Morella Castle

The medieval walled town of Morella is in El Maestrat, a lonely upland region situated equidistant between the kingdoms of Valencia and Aragon. The fan shaped town surrounds the base of the castle hill and is full of steep streets and narrow passageways.

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Morell and Bullring

Morella

Morella

St Joan’s steps run straight up the hill through the entire town to the Church of Santa Maria la Major just below the castle.

St Joan's Steps

St Joan’s Steps

Fairly new 1922

Fairly new 1922

The town is dotted with small devotional altars.

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Altar6

Altar3

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

Houses have plaques to commenirate past notable residents.

Houses have plaques to commemorate past notable residents.

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Door Of the Disciples

The Door Of the Disciples

The Castle has been described as a three layer cake. It’s streaks of calcareus rock and clay store water, which enabled the castle to withstand long sieges.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

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The final passage to the top.

The final passage to the top.

Behind this door is a two story cell that was used to house captured officers or dignitaries. Deluxe accommodations of a sort.

Officer's Cell

Officer’s Cell

This is the view from the parade grounds at the very top of the castle and the main reason it is here.  Commanding a view of Querol pass, the main route between the coast and the River Ebro, nobody, no how, will be sneaking up on you and nobody will be crossing the valley without your permission.

View from the top.

View from the top.

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Morella’s Miracle

There is a house on the Calle de la Virgen where St Vincent Ferrer is said to have performed a miracle in the 15th century. A housewife was so upset at having no meat to offer the Saint that she cut up her son and added him to the stew. When Saint Vinny heard this he reconstituted the boy except for his little finger, which the mother had eaten while tasting the meal.

And they all lived happily ever after.

Except the son, of course, who never spoke to his mother again.






Graffiti – Valencian Style

We Only Fight For The Future

We Only Fight For The Future

Graffiti is pretty much everywhere here. The highways and railway lines are completely covered with “tagging”. That’s when someone paints their name or “handstyle” everywhere they can find an open space. This type of graffiti clings to underpasses, bridges, abandon buildings, old silos and crumbling walls. Anywhere the author can work unmolested for a sufficient length of time.

Tom

Tom

El Puig

El Puig

Sent Blacky

Sent Blacky

There seems to be some loose rules around these things. For example, writing over someone else’s tag is a sign of disrespect and could ignite a whole “tagging war” or too closely copying someone else’s style would be considered déclassé. I tend to think of this style as vandalism and the province of unemployed youth. Although, they are certainly ambitious in their scope, application and placement. We have seen some that was 80’ off the ground on the side of a 10 story building. To me, this cartoonish three dimensional block type all seems to be a variation on the same theme.

Sagunt

Sagunt

I’m intrigued by the more illustrative style, primarily for it’s cleverness and artistic acumen. Although, I suppose that depends on whether or not it’s your building they’re painting on.

Benny

Benny

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red Riding Hood

Swing

Swing

Winky

Winky

I See You

I See You

Clown Cones

Clown Cones

No Bullfighting

No Bullfighting

Eyeball

Eyeball

Vertigo

Vertigo

Open Door Here

Open Door Here

I have no idea!

I have no idea!

 

Tossa de Mar

CB16

My good friend and spiritual advisor Big Dog Beller has been telling me for years to go to the Costa Brava and stay in Tossa de Mar. We finally made it and he was right, of all the coastal resort towns we have seen, it is the most charming. A little remote, not too crowded, nice shopping district, some quaint family run restaurants, two small beaches and a terrific walled old town. The place has kind of an old South Beach feel, but with history. We even stayed at the Hotel Florida.

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The road winds northeast up the coast for about 30 km, hugging the shore and offering fabulous views of coves and inlets with the clearest water you have ever seen.

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CB17Tossa de Mar’s additional claim to fame is as the location of the 1951 hit movie “Pandora & the Flying Dutchman” starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. There are pictures all over town of Ava cavorting with the locals while Frank Sinatra, her husband at the time, maintains a somewhat jealous vigil on the activities. They have even erected a statue of her on the ramparts overlooking the town.

Poster

Fun For Foodies

When traveling you are forever comparing everything to home. What do people here do differently then we do? We love food markets. They are a quick overview of what locals eat and what they call everyday things we are very familar with. Also, how other people combine things we would never think to put together. For example, I’ve discovered you can drop a fried egg on just about anything from a hamburger to a pork chop to a plate of spaghetti.

One of the things we have discovered that the Spanish do really well is the urban mercado. We have been to four so far, two in Madrid and two in Valencia, and they have all been exceptional. Mercados are very busy places where people congregate to socialize and purchase every kind of vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, spice, nut, cheese or wine imaginable. And a thousand other things you never even thought of. Most have small counters where we can purchase coffee or a drink as well as tapas and small samples of just about anything.

Eat

The Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid is a little spendy but a great place for lunch.

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

The Mercado San Anton, also in Madrid, is in the middle of the trendy gay district and is a huge social gathering spot with terrific tapas and wine vendors.

Mercado San Anton in   Madrid

Mercado San Anton in Madrid

The Mercado Colon in Valencia is the swankiest of the markets we went to. Recently renovated, it is mostly flower vendors and small stalls run by fancy restaurants.

Marcado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

By far the most exceptional Mercado we visited was the Mercado Central in Valencia. It is huge and filled with everything you never imagined you wanted.

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Iberian ham can be very expensive. Serrano ham is a little more affordable.

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I’ve seen about 20 varieties of shrimp.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Wafer thin ham and bacon is everywhere.

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham haunches at the Mercado Central in Valencia

These ham haunches can cost between $120 and $300.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Very scary fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I am definitely not eating this.

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More snacks at the Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Seafood snacks at Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Welons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Melons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Madrid

Madrid is the capital and largest city of Spain with a population of roughly 3.3 million. This makes it the third largest city in the European Union. Its influences in politics, education, media, arts, entertainment, environment, fashion, science and culture all contribute to its status as one of the world’s major global cities.

We were lucky enough to find a great little hotel called Lapepa in the middle of the Museum District that couldn’t possibly have been better. It was clean, quiet and walking distance from just about everything we wanted. Paula and and whole staff were friendly and amazingly helpful.

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Villa Real

View from our window -The Villa Real

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a big city and can be a little intimidating until you get your bearings. We have come to love the “Hop On Hop Off” City Bus Tours. They are a smokin’ deal. For only 8 euros you can ride all day and get on and off anywhere it stops. It gives you a great feel for the layout and stops at all the major attractions. The upper deck is open air so on a nice day they can’t be beat. After just one rotation you feel like you have a pretty good idea where everything is and where you’d like to return.

Get on the bus Gus

Get on the bus Gus

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Banca de Espana

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Puerta del Sol

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Congreso de los Diputados

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Torres de Colon

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Torres de Colon

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Cervantes and Don Quixote

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Queen Isabella

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Santa María la Real de La Almudena

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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El Palacio Real de Madrid

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The Metropolis Building

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We saw so much great art in Madrid it was overwelming. The three big hitters are the Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Museo Reina Sofia. There’s a great discount pass online, The Paseo del Arte card, that includes all three and gives you a scheduled admission to the Prado, which means no waiting in line. There are also, at least, 50 smaller museums that are equally outstanding. You could spend a month here just looking at art.

Wendi was adament about going to the El Rastro street market, considered by many as the largest street market in Europe and it is huge. With an estimated 3500 market stalls it seems to stretch for miles down little streets and alleys. And it is packed tighter then a can of sardines. And hang onto your panties. I caught two different people trying to reach into my camera bag. I wasn’t particularly concerned as there wasn’t anything in it but an old map, still it’s a little disconcerting. That been said, we did have a great time. There is a lot of excitement and a million things to look at. I do have to offer one caveat though. Cheap t-shirts dominate. Like almost every street market we’ve been to, if China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Korea and Guatemala stop making cheap crap this place will be closed up tight in no time.

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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Making friends at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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The frame street at El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

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El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket2

El Rastro Street Market

The Tabernas are pretty cool too. They’re a little like Spanish Sushi Bars in that the top of the bar is lined with all sorts of little dishes from olives to small open faced sandwiches that run from 1 to 5 euros each. The barman gives you a drink and you just point at what you want and they tally it up when you’re done. It’s affordable and great fun, very social with people coming and going and everyone talking at once.

Travana

The girls at Taberna Txakolina on Calle Cava Baja

The Saturday we were in Madrid was the annual Gay Pride Parade and it dominated the entire museum district of the city. There were thousands of partiers in the streets from all over Europe. By 10am police were rerouting traffic, closing down major intersections and roundabouts for a 6pm parade. All the major fountains were turned off to keep overheated partiers out of them. The parade consisted of hundreds of LGBT groups and organizations from every city in Spain. Cross-dressers were turned into minor celebrities and graciously had their pictures taken with anyone who asked. The crowd had a ball.

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

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Gay Pride in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

 

The Troops Are Mobilizing Around Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames is a picturesque town in the interior of the province of Castellón.

Vilafames

Vilafames

Vilafames - Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames

Vilafames With The Castle In The Distance

Vilafames - Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames – Beautiful Restored Homes

Vilafames

Vilafames

The town, which has been declared of Spanish Cultural Interest, is topped by the ruins of an old Moorish castle that was conquered in 1233 by James 1.

Castle

Castle

This small town has three large churches. The most impressive being the Iglesia Parroquial.

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Iglesia Parroquial

The town’s real claim to fame is the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés, a terrific little museum in a splendid XV century Gothic palace. Opened in 1972 by the renowned art critic D. Vicente Aguilera Cerni, it was the first museum dedicated to contemporary art in Spain. It is home to more than 500 artworks, spanning the various artistic currents from the Valencian artistic renewal of the twenties to the present. The artists exhibiting in the museum have been referred to as Spain’s artistic vanguard for the last 80 years, both nationally and internationally.

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d'Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Vilafamés

While I was editing these pictures it occurred to me that we are a little like the soldiers marching behind El Cid. Slowing moving over hardscrabble earth from one dusty narrow laned village to the next under the ever-present punishing glare of the Spanish sun. I also noticed that besides similarities there are some striking differences as well.

Like the 11th century warriors of lore we have absolutely no idea where we are headed, but then they had El Capitan to point the way. We have Edith and you all know how well that’s working.

While the troops didn’t eat particularly well they did have a pretty good idea what it was. We too are foraging for food as we go, but haven’t found it necessary to slaughter any animals, just yet. On the other hand, we have had meals placed in front of us that have left us scratching our heads in bewilderment. I requested what I thought was a pork chop the other day and got a nicely garnished 2 pound lump of grilled fat. Can’t wait to have that again.

Unlike the defenseless peasants, we haven’t witnessed any decapitations or had to face any psychotic adversaries wielding swords. In the 21st century the weapon of choice is the automobile. I have very nearly been run over twice now and been screamed and beeped at by half the population.

It isn’t just drivers though. Ticket sellers in train stations seem to find us extremely dim witted and annoying. By the time the train leaves the station we are so confused and anxiety ridden that we are certain we are on the wrong train, headed in the wrong direction and when the conductor checks our tickets he too will begin to yell at us and extricate us from the locomotive leaving us stranded at the next Podunk stop until we can find another ticket seller and begin the process anew.

But I exaggerate, this really hasn’t happened that many times.

Like soldiers trudging over the sun-baked plains of Aragon we have had to stop frequently to replenish our electrolytes. While the Knights of Vivar probably drank stale water from old goatskins we tend to consume copious quantities of cappuccino, cervasa and vino blanco. And, of course, there is the ever-present liter bottle of mineral water.

Water Stop

Water Stop

Very Limited Town Square Parking

Very Limited Town Square Parking

Which brings me to my final observation. Prayer.

Saint Jude - The Patron Saint Of Lost Causes

Saint Jude – The Patron Saint Of Lost Causes

People in the 11th century prayed a lot. Besides issues involving the afterlife, they prayed for crops. They prayed that the marauding soldiers wouldn’t steal their crops and kill them all. They prayed for it to rain and they prayed for it to stop raining. They pretty much prayed for everything.

We pray too. We pray for bathrooms. Clean bathrooms. Oh yes, and parking, we pray for parking so we can get out of the car and go to the bathroom.

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El Rullo – A nice little restaurant with a very clean bathroom.

Our prayers have been answered.

 

Peniscola

We spent a toasty afternoon in Peniscola, a terrific little seaside city with a great beach and promenade. It was a hot day and the beach was covered with sunbathers and multicolored umbrellas for miles.

Peniscola Playa

Peniscola Playa

Peniscola

Stock Image

The beach sits at the bottom of the old town which clings to a rocky promontory that is crowned with the city’s big attraction, the Castell del Papa Luna. The castle was built in the late 13th century by the infamous Knights of Templar, but really made it’s mark as the residence/hideout for Pope Benedict XIII, i.e. Papa Luna.

The Church of the Castle

The Church of the Castle

Luna was named Pope during the Great Schism that split the Papacy in the 14th century, but was deposed in 1414. He lived here until he died in 1423 and complained about losing the job until the bitter end.

Papa Luna greets all visitors

Papa Luna greets all visitors

Because of the Castle’s position, being surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean, some have called Luna “Pope of the Sea”.

From the ramparts towards the beach

From the ramparts towards the beach

Lighthouse from the main entrance

Lighthouse from the main entrance

Chapel Door

Chapel Door

To the top lookout

To the top lookout

From the ramparts out to sea

From the ramparts out to sea

From the ramparts soulth to the harbor

From the ramparts south to the harbor

Across the Old Town

Across the Old Town

Peniscola’s fame was reinvigorated in 1961 when Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren arrived to film the epic spectacular EL Cid.

El Cid 1961

El Cid 1961

A little footnote for you film buffs. Sophia sued because her name is below Charlie’s. The suit read, “It is impossible to determine or even to estimate the extent of the damages which the plaintiff will suffer.” Maybe a whisper touchy?

My trusty companion braves the afternoon heat

My trusty companion braves the afternoon heat

 

Got To Go To Elceigo

On the way to Bilbao we passed through La Rioja, a province that is to Northern Spain what Sonoma and Napa are to Northern California. We stopped for the night in Elceigo.

The Cathedral in Elceigo

The Cathedral in Elceigo

The entire region is dotted with hundreds of wineries. Imagine that in the midst of all this you’d like to separate your business from the riff raff. What do you do? Well, if you’re the Marques de Riscal winery, you take a look up the road to Bilbao and think, “Hey, if the Guggenheim can do it, why not us?’  Then you pick up the phone and call “1800GetFrank” and in one bold stroke you elevate your medium sized vino factory above all comers and transform it into to a world class destination complete with extensive tours, every hour, in 5 languages, a great big gift and wine shop, a five star hotel, café, super spa and a renowned restaurant.

Frank Gehry In Elceigo

Frank Gehry In Elceigo

The Frank Gehry designed building sits at the top of the hill glimmering in the sun. Like a giant magnet it sucks in buses and cars from all over the continent. It is a force of nature, when you see it shining on the horizon you just can’t help but stop. And I don’t even drink wine.

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Sundial

Sundial

Marques de Riscal Winery - Detail

Marques de Riscal Winery – Detail

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Marques de Riscal Winery

Just be patient

Just be patient

Marques de Riscal

Marques de Riscal

Marques de Riscal Winery and Restaurant

Marques de Riscal Winery and Restaurant

All roads end at the wine tasting.

At the wine tasting

Wendi and our trusty tour guide.

 Bottoms Up