Tag Archives: Travel

The Secessionists

Take my word for it, Secessionist Art is really cool. It was one of the Art Nouveau disciplines that was popular between 1890 and 1910 and slightly predates Art Deco and was huge in Budapest. This modernist artist group included the likes of Gustav Klimt and Karoly Lotz,  They were renegades who separated from the support of official academic art and its administrations during this period. 

The Kiss - Gustav Klimt

The Kiss – Gustav Klimt

Woman Bathing - Kaloty

Woman Bathing – Karoly Lotz

Budapest, like both Berlin and Vienna, was a hot bed for this new and exciting art movement. Some of the country’s most famous architects designed buildings in this style. Some of them were inspired by traditional Hungarian decorative designs, Transylvanian traditions, or Far East (Indian or Syrian) styles.

One of our favorites is the Museum of Applied Arts, designed by Odon Lechner and Gyula Partos from 1893 – 1896. It is the third oldest applied arts museum in the world. It is currently showing a very exciting exhibit of Hungarian Posters from the 1920s called Bolder Than Painting.

AppliedArts11

AppliedArts12

AppliedArts2AppliedArts7

AppliedArts10

AppliedArts9AppliedArts8AppliedArts6AppliedArts5AppliedArts4AppliedArts3AppliedArts1More Art Nouveau Architecture


The Cold War

25 years ago this poster would have landed you in prison.

25 years ago this poster would have landed you in prison.

For most Americans, unless of course you happened to work for the CIA or were unfortunate enough to have friends or relatives behind the Iron Curtain, the Cold War always remained a sort of conceptual notion, like the Boogie Man hiding in the closet that could burst forth at any moment and annihilate us all with hundreds of unseen thermonuclear devices, more of a threat then something real and tangible.

Not so for the Hungarians. After the Soviets drove the Nazis out at the end of WWII, the Communists held this place in a grip that was total and absolute and lasted over 40 years. In Hungary the Iron Curtain was not some scary ethereal miasma. Here it was very real, fashioned out of guns, spies, interrogation, propaganda and fear.

Iron Curtain Sculpture

Iron Curtain Sculpture

Capitalism, with all it’s pluses and minuses, is now the system du jour and virtually all signs of Soviet domination have been eradicated with a few notable exceptions. Flea markets, where the sale of Soviet era paraphernalia, i.e. coats, hats, pins, etc., is an ongoing enterprise, and two museums, the House of Terror Museum and Momento Park, stand as constant reminders of life under the Communist boot.

The House of Terror, located at Andrássy útca 60, is a memorial to the victims of the fascist and communist dictatorial regimes who were detained, interrogated, tortured or killed in this building.

The House of Terror

The House of Terror

Pictures of victims stretch the length of the building.

Pictures of victims stretch the length of the building.

 The Nazi’s took possession of this very fashionable location during WWII. When the Soviets and Hungarian fascist Arrow Cross Party took over, they expanded it to include almost the entire block and converted the basement into a labyrinth of cells and interrogation rooms.

Iron Curtain Sculpture

Iron Curtain Sculpture

Memento Park is an open air museum about 20 minutes southeast of Budapest. It is filled with monumental statues from Hungary’s Communist period (1949–1989).

Main Entrance

Main Entrance

Cubist monument of Marx and Engels.

Cubist monument of Marx and Engels.

Memento27

Onward Comrades

Memento14

Hungarian-Soviet Friendship Memorial

Memento22

Together we will dominate the world.

Memento28

Monument to the Martyrs of the Counter-Revolution

Memento15

Break Free of Imperialist Tyranny.

Memento20

The Republic of Councils Monument

Memento24

The Republic of Councils Monument

Memento25

The Hungarian Fighters in the Spanish International Brigades Memorial.

Memento13

Red Army Soldier

Memento17

Lenin Relief

Memento30

Soviet Heroic Memorial

Memento11

Soviet Heroic Memorial

Memento21

Most notably absent are any statues of Stalin. Apparently all of them were destroyed after the Soviets fled in 1989. All that remains are Papa Joe’s boots.

Stalin's Boots

Stalin’s Boots

And finally, just for scale.

Wendi is unintimidated.

Wendi is unintimidated.






Budapest – Our First Look Around

Budapest is a great big, busy and exciting city. It’s the capital and largest city in Hungary, and one of the largest cities in the European Union, with a metropolitan population of 3.3 million.

ChainBridge7

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

Budapest is a very beautiful place that is ranked as the most liveable Central and Eastern European city on EIU‘s quality of life index, “the world’s second best city” by Condé Nast Traveler, “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes, and the 9th most beautiful city in the world by UCityGuides.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

View of Pest from the Dome on the National Gallery.

The Chain Bridge

The Chain Bridge

We’ve rented a great little apartment, Liesel/Pierre, in a historic building at Szervita ter 5 in the center of downtown Budapest.

Szervita ter 5

Szervita ter 5

Through here.

Through here.

Across the courtyard.

Across the courtyard.

We're on the top floor.

We’re on the top floor.

Top floor.

Top floor.

And we're there.

And we’re there.

Come In To The  Liesel/Pierre.

Now a walk around the neighborhood.

Budapest47

Parizsi Utca

Budapest44

Egyetemi Templom

Szervita ter

Szervita ter 9

Budapest54

Szerb Utca

Budapest79

Vaci Utca

Budapest74

Veres Palne Utca

Budapest67

Eizsebet ter

Budapest49

Karpatia at Ferenciek tere 3-5

Budapest1

Deák Ferenc tér

Budapest80

Piarista Koz

Budapest56

Petofi Sandor Utca

Budapest50

Chocolate Shop

Budapest75

Fat Mo’s Speakeasy

The Central Market is one of Budapest’s great institutions. It’s cavernous and bustling and filled with food, clothes, gifts, wine, a great lunch and all things Hungarian.

The Central Market

The Central Market

Budapest61

Budapest87

Budapest86 Budapest84 Budapest85

Budapest65 Budapest62 Budapest60

Budapest64

Budapest59

 


The Wendi Files – Spanish Edition

Everyone seems to enjoy peeking in on what Wendi’s up to and I guess that includes me, seeing I’m her resident stalker and personal paparazzi. So here’s the Spanish Edition, not quite as quirky as Holland and certainly not as inebriated as Ireland, but wacky nonetheless.

Benicassim Train Station

Benicassim Train Station

This way

Right this way to Morella Castle.

Madrid.

Madrid.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

At the Mercado Gin & Bar in Benicassim.

Nice tomatoes.

Nice tomatoes.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

At the Puerta Sol in Madrid.

Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar

With the Giants in Morella.

With the Giants in Morella.

The Alhambra

The Alhambra

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Got to have those salt & vinegar chips.

Moving fast in Cordoba

Moving fast in Cordoba

Hey down here.

Hey, down here.

At the winery in El Ceigo

At the winery in El Ceigo

Posing at the Monastery.

Posing at the Monastery.

There's wine on the way in Valencia.

There’s wine on the way in Valencia.

Making new friends at the Parade.

Making new friends at the Parade.

 Waiting for me at IVAM.

Waiting for me at IVAM.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Her favorite house in Monstrol.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Bargain hunting at the Market.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Hard at work at the Rondo in Valencia.

Dress shop window.

Dress shop window.

See the blisters

See the blisters

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Lunch at the Alhambra.

Our Spanish adventure is done. We’re off to Budapest tomorrow. See you there.



Morella Castle

Morella Castle

Morella Castle

The medieval walled town of Morella is in El Maestrat, a lonely upland region situated equidistant between the kingdoms of Valencia and Aragon. The fan shaped town surrounds the base of the castle hill and is full of steep streets and narrow passageways.

MorellaCastle9

Morell and Bullring

Morella

Morella

St Joan’s steps run straight up the hill through the entire town to the Church of Santa Maria la Major just below the castle.

St Joan's Steps

St Joan’s Steps

Fairly new 1922

Fairly new 1922

The town is dotted with small devotional altars.

Altar2

Altar6

Altar3

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

One of the Seven Sorrows of Mary

Houses have plaques to commenirate past notable residents.

Houses have plaques to commemorate past notable residents.

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Church of Santa Maria la Major

The Door Of the Disciples

The Door Of the Disciples

The Castle has been described as a three layer cake. It’s streaks of calcareus rock and clay store water, which enabled the castle to withstand long sieges.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The Castle from the Cloisters below.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

The wall completely surrounds the castle.

MorellaCastle7

The final passage to the top.

The final passage to the top.

Behind this door is a two story cell that was used to house captured officers or dignitaries. Deluxe accommodations of a sort.

Officer's Cell

Officer’s Cell

This is the view from the parade grounds at the very top of the castle and the main reason it is here.  Commanding a view of Querol pass, the main route between the coast and the River Ebro, nobody, no how, will be sneaking up on you and nobody will be crossing the valley without your permission.

View from the top.

View from the top.

MorellaCastle8

Morella’s Miracle

There is a house on the Calle de la Virgen where St Vincent Ferrer is said to have performed a miracle in the 15th century. A housewife was so upset at having no meat to offer the Saint that she cut up her son and added him to the stew. When Saint Vinny heard this he reconstituted the boy except for his little finger, which the mother had eaten while tasting the meal.

And they all lived happily ever after.

Except the son, of course, who never spoke to his mother again.






Valencia

Valencia23

Plaza del Ayuntamiento

Valencia is a great city. It’s very old, founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC, Valencia has grown into Spain’s third largest city with a metropolitan area population of around 2.3 million.

Although it doesn’t feel like a huge place. The historic center has a very small city vibe with wide boulevards linked together by small streets and pedestrian passageways filled with traditional cafes, tabernas and specialty shops. A lot of the sidewalks in the city center are marble and, boy howdy, they feel good under foot.

Valencia26

City Hall and Plaza del Ayuntamiento

Valencia7

City Hall

Valencia4

Plaza de la Riena and the Miguelete, the Cathedral Bell Tower.

Tower

Santa Catalina

Street Band

Street Band

Balconies

Even the underside of the balconies are tiled.

Valencia14 ValenciaSq Valencia22 Valencia21HorchateriaAt the end of the 15th century the Silk Exchange (Llotja de la Seda) or La Lonja was erected as the city became a commercial emporium that attracted merchants from all over Europe.

LaLonja1

La Lonja

LaLonja2

La Lonja’s vaulted ceiling.

LaLonja6

La Lonja’s guilded ceiling.

LaLonja3

La Lonja’s gothic windows.

LaLonja4

La Lonja

LaLonja8

La Lonja’s courtyard

Estacion del Norte is the city’s main train station. Fast, easy and filled with some great tile work.

Estacion del Norte

Estacion del Norte

Valencia6

Estacion del Norte

Valencia17

Estacion del Norte

Valencia15

Estacion del Norte

Plaza Redonda is a lovely circular market traditionally used to sell lace, fabric and millinery goods.

Plaza Redonda

Plaza Redonda

Valencia33

Plaza Redonda

Valencia28

Plaza Redonda

Just a few loose ends.

Valencia36

This translates to “particular pitch”?

Valencia37

Filiberto Leon’s Watches

PO_Slots

Main Post Office Mail Slots

Valencia21Valencia8 Valencia3And finally, this is Manolo Montoliu standing proudly outside the Plaza de Toros, Valencia’s Bullring.

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo Montoliu

Manolo was a bullfighter and flagman who was killed on May 1, 1992 by the bull Cabatisto in the bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Seville. You know what they say about messing with the bull… See for yourself.

Bullfighting is still very popular in Spain and people line up here to purchase tickets for upcoming spectacles.

 

 

Graffiti – Valencian Style

We Only Fight For The Future

We Only Fight For The Future

Graffiti is pretty much everywhere here. The highways and railway lines are completely covered with “tagging”. That’s when someone paints their name or “handstyle” everywhere they can find an open space. This type of graffiti clings to underpasses, bridges, abandon buildings, old silos and crumbling walls. Anywhere the author can work unmolested for a sufficient length of time.

Tom

Tom

El Puig

El Puig

Sent Blacky

Sent Blacky

There seems to be some loose rules around these things. For example, writing over someone else’s tag is a sign of disrespect and could ignite a whole “tagging war” or too closely copying someone else’s style would be considered déclassé. I tend to think of this style as vandalism and the province of unemployed youth. Although, they are certainly ambitious in their scope, application and placement. We have seen some that was 80’ off the ground on the side of a 10 story building. To me, this cartoonish three dimensional block type all seems to be a variation on the same theme.

Sagunt

Sagunt

I’m intrigued by the more illustrative style, primarily for it’s cleverness and artistic acumen. Although, I suppose that depends on whether or not it’s your building they’re painting on.

Benny

Benny

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red Riding Hood

Swing

Swing

Winky

Winky

I See You

I See You

Clown Cones

Clown Cones

No Bullfighting

No Bullfighting

Eyeball

Eyeball

Vertigo

Vertigo

Open Door Here

Open Door Here

I have no idea!

I have no idea!

 

Tossa de Mar

CB16

My good friend and spiritual advisor Big Dog Beller has been telling me for years to go to the Costa Brava and stay in Tossa de Mar. We finally made it and he was right, of all the coastal resort towns we have seen, it is the most charming. A little remote, not too crowded, nice shopping district, some quaint family run restaurants, two small beaches and a terrific walled old town. The place has kind of an old South Beach feel, but with history. We even stayed at the Hotel Florida.

CB13CB18CB10CB12CB15CB9CB4CB3CB19CB20

The road winds northeast up the coast for about 30 km, hugging the shore and offering fabulous views of coves and inlets with the clearest water you have ever seen.

CB22 CB21 CB23

CB17Tossa de Mar’s additional claim to fame is as the location of the 1951 hit movie “Pandora & the Flying Dutchman” starring Ava Gardner and James Mason. There are pictures all over town of Ava cavorting with the locals while Frank Sinatra, her husband at the time, maintains a somewhat jealous vigil on the activities. They have even erected a statue of her on the ramparts overlooking the town.

Poster

Fun For Foodies

When traveling you are forever comparing everything to home. What do people here do differently then we do? We love food markets. They are a quick overview of what locals eat and what they call everyday things we are very familar with. Also, how other people combine things we would never think to put together. For example, I’ve discovered you can drop a fried egg on just about anything from a hamburger to a pork chop to a plate of spaghetti.

One of the things we have discovered that the Spanish do really well is the urban mercado. We have been to four so far, two in Madrid and two in Valencia, and they have all been exceptional. Mercados are very busy places where people congregate to socialize and purchase every kind of vegetable, fruit, meat, fish, spice, nut, cheese or wine imaginable. And a thousand other things you never even thought of. Most have small counters where we can purchase coffee or a drink as well as tapas and small samples of just about anything.

Eat

The Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid is a little spendy but a great place for lunch.

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

The Mercado San Anton, also in Madrid, is in the middle of the trendy gay district and is a huge social gathering spot with terrific tapas and wine vendors.

Mercado San Anton in   Madrid

Mercado San Anton in Madrid

The Mercado Colon in Valencia is the swankiest of the markets we went to. Recently renovated, it is mostly flower vendors and small stalls run by fancy restaurants.

Marcado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

Flowers at the Mercado Colon in Valencia

By far the most exceptional Mercado we visited was the Mercado Central in Valencia. It is huge and filled with everything you never imagined you wanted.

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

The Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More veggies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Iberian ham can be very expensive. Serrano ham is a little more affordable.

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More ham at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I’ve seen about 20 varieties of shrimp.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Wafer thin ham and bacon is everywhere.

More meat at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Live eels at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Ham haunches at the Mercado Central in Valencia

These ham haunches can cost between $120 and $300.

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Very scary fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Fish at the Mercado Central in Valencia

I am definitely not eating this.

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Anchovies at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Tomatoes at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Snails at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More snacks at the Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Seafood snacks at Mecardo de Miguel in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Snacks at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Shrimp at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Sardines at the Mercado Central in Valencia

More olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Nuts at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Olives at the Mercado San Anton in Madrid

Welons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Melons at the Mercado Central in Valencia

Madrid

Madrid is the capital and largest city of Spain with a population of roughly 3.3 million. This makes it the third largest city in the European Union. Its influences in politics, education, media, arts, entertainment, environment, fashion, science and culture all contribute to its status as one of the world’s major global cities.

We were lucky enough to find a great little hotel called Lapepa in the middle of the Museum District that couldn’t possibly have been better. It was clean, quiet and walking distance from just about everything we wanted. Paula and and whole staff were friendly and amazingly helpful.

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Westin Palace

View from our window -The Villa Real

View from our window -The Villa Real

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a big city and can be a little intimidating until you get your bearings. We have come to love the “Hop On Hop Off” City Bus Tours. They are a smokin’ deal. For only 8 euros you can ride all day and get on and off anywhere it stops. It gives you a great feel for the layout and stops at all the major attractions. The upper deck is open air so on a nice day they can’t be beat. After just one rotation you feel like you have a pretty good idea where everything is and where you’d like to return.

Get on the bus Gus

Get on the bus Gus

Madrid2

Banca de Espana

Madrid9

Puerta del Sol

Madrid11

Congreso de los Diputados

Madrid5

Torres de Colon

Madrid3

Torres de Colon

Madrid6 Madrid8 Madrid10

Madrid18

Cervantes and Don Quixote

Madrid17

Queen Isabella

Madrid24

Santa María la Real de La Almudena

Madrid23

El Palacio Real de Madrid

Madrid20

El Palacio Real de Madrid

Madrid22

El Palacio Real de Madrid

Metropolis1

The Metropolis Building

Madrid15 Madrid16

We saw so much great art in Madrid it was overwelming. The three big hitters are the Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Museo Reina Sofia. There’s a great discount pass online, The Paseo del Arte card, that includes all three and gives you a scheduled admission to the Prado, which means no waiting in line. There are also, at least, 50 smaller museums that are equally outstanding. You could spend a month here just looking at art.

Wendi was adament about going to the El Rastro street market, considered by many as the largest street market in Europe and it is huge. With an estimated 3500 market stalls it seems to stretch for miles down little streets and alleys. And it is packed tighter then a can of sardines. And hang onto your panties. I caught two different people trying to reach into my camera bag. I wasn’t particularly concerned as there wasn’t anything in it but an old map, still it’s a little disconcerting. That been said, we did have a great time. There is a lot of excitement and a million things to look at. I do have to offer one caveat though. Cheap t-shirts dominate. Like almost every street market we’ve been to, if China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Korea and Guatemala stop making cheap crap this place will be closed up tight in no time.

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket19

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket18

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket15

Making friends at El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket14

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket13

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket11

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket9

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket10

The frame street at El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket5

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket4

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket3

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket1

El Rastro Street Market

FleaMarket2

El Rastro Street Market

The Tabernas are pretty cool too. They’re a little like Spanish Sushi Bars in that the top of the bar is lined with all sorts of little dishes from olives to small open faced sandwiches that run from 1 to 5 euros each. The barman gives you a drink and you just point at what you want and they tally it up when you’re done. It’s affordable and great fun, very social with people coming and going and everyone talking at once.

Travana

The girls at Taberna Txakolina on Calle Cava Baja

The Saturday we were in Madrid was the annual Gay Pride Parade and it dominated the entire museum district of the city. There were thousands of partiers in the streets from all over Europe. By 10am police were rerouting traffic, closing down major intersections and roundabouts for a 6pm parade. All the major fountains were turned off to keep overheated partiers out of them. The parade consisted of hundreds of LGBT groups and organizations from every city in Spain. Cross-dressers were turned into minor celebrities and graciously had their pictures taken with anyone who asked. The crowd had a ball.

GP2

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP4

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP6

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP5

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP8

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP7

Gay Pride in Madrid

GP10

Gay Pride in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid

Wendi with Cher at the Gay pride parade in Madrid