Tag Archives: UK

The Artist’s Town

Kirkcudbright

We happened upon Kirkcudbright while touring southwest Scotland and liked it so much we stayed a couple days. The town has always had a long association with the Glasgow art movement. Many artists, including the Glasgow Boys and the famed Scottish Colorists, based themselves here and established the Kirkcudbright Artists’ Colony. The presence of accredited artists helped Kirkcudbright become known as “the Artist’s Town”.

We lodged at the Selkirk Arms Hotel and couldn’t recommend it more highly if you like good food, great beer and terrific people.

The hotel is named after Thomas Douglas, the 5th Earl of Selkirk, one of Kirkcudbright’s most famous sons. He devoted much of his life to helping landless Scots immigrate to Canada and from around 1790 to 1812 founded colonies on Prince Edwards Island, Ontario and Manitoba. The site of his original settlement on the Red River is now part of Winnipeg, Manitoba’s capital.

Kirkcudbright became a royal burgh in 1453. The Tolbooth/City Hall was built between 1625 and 1629 and served as tollbooth, council offices,  courts and the criminal and debtors’ prison. It’s most famous prisoner was the American Naval hero, John Paul Jones. The building, after a £3 million renovation, is now the city’s largest art museum/gallery.

Jessie Marion King

Jessie Marion King was one of the artists known as the Glasgow Girls. She lived and worked in this house with her husband E. A. Taylor. She was a hugely independent woman and chose to keep her maiden name, something very unusual in Scotland at the beginning of the 20th century.

A prolific artist, she always moved against the grain and was inspired to create unique designs in her paintings, illustrations, books, fabrics, pottery and jewelry.

Jessie Marion King

With it’s many pastel colored homes and narrow passageways, the town is almost the definition of quaint.

While The Queen’s Away

The Castle Tour – Episode 4

Balmoral Castle

Balmoral, Autumn, 1896 by Joseph Donovan Adam

Balmoral Castle sits just outside the little town of Ballater, the home of the Deeside train station where the royal family, until the 1960s, would arrive by train for their holiday time. The train station sustained serious fire damage and has just completed a £3million restoration project. The museum and shops it houses are scheduled to reopen by late summer. Ballater is a nice little town that is  very dog friendly and has lots of small shops and a few good pubs.

Deeside Train Station

Deeside Train Station

Deeside Train Station

Ballater Library

The Balmoral Bar

Dogs are welcomed in all the pubs.

A place to tie your dog if you’d rather.

Golf has always been big in Ballater.

I love this glass.

Balmoral, the Queen’s over 50,000 acre country estate and holiday get-away, is surrounded by some amazing countryside of hills, mountains meadows, moors, valleys and rivers.

The River Dee

The River Dee

The Castle Itself

It really is an estate, in that, it does not meet the criteria previously stated in regards to castles. It’s more a huge house designed to look like a castle. Beyond a tower there are really none of the classic castle defense schemes in place. There are large windows on the ground floor, there are no narrow passageways to dissuade the advance of angry rebels, no uneven stairways to impede armor clad knights, no peep holes, lug holes or murder holes. It is a gentle welcoming place. The SWAT teams could probably just walk in the front door. Even though it is, a sort of, make believe castle, it is beautiful and packed with history. These attractions become somehow obligatory, like the Prime Directive, you’ve come this far you just have to go. To not go would be akin to traveling to Egypt and turning your back on the pyramids. The universe just won’t allow it. If nothing else, you get to breath the same air that the Queen breathes.

And talk about well organized, OMG. Absolutely nothing is left to chance, either in the running of the estate or in the welcoming of visitors. The surrounding forest and countryside is maintained like a huge carefully crafted garden. The forests are constantly culled of older dying trees to make way for new growth. Any spread of disease or infestation is closely monitored and eradicated. The wildlife population is strictly maintained at optimum levels. The appearance of any unwelcome species or predators that may disrupt this perfect balance is, like an invading army, quickly and aggressively dealt with. Wendi was thrilled to discover that the native red squirrels are protected and that the disease carrying grey squirrels have been pushed out.

The Queen’s Mailbox

The movement of visitors through the estate is just as efficient. Parking is off-site, after purchasing tickets at the gate you are offered the choice of a pleasant 15 minute walk through the woods to the visitor center/ cafe/ gift shop/ toilets/ movie presentation/ picture gallery/ historic vehicle garage /stables or you can ride in the small transit vehicle that leaves every 7 minutes, exactly. Once there, you can pick up a free audio guide, in virtually any language, and then you are on your own. You are free to wander well groomed grounds, gorgeous gardens and wondrous woodland paths.

As for the house, well, there will be no traipsing around the halls, bedrooms or kitchens of the inner sanctum, with or without shoes. Access is restricted to the ballroom where a very nice display of historic paintings and photos depict the royal family’s relationship with Balmoral, examples of beautiful Cairngorm crystals unearthed on the estate, some of the jewelry made with it and lots of pictures of the dogs. Unfortunately, absolutely no photos are to be taken in the ballroom, with or without the flash. This is a policy I have never quite understood. What do they imagine people might do with them? Perhaps it’s just a control thing.

The “battlemented” porte cochères, or “carriage porch”, is covered to protect guests from the frequent rain and snow.

The tower and “pepper pot turrets” are characteristic features of the Scottish Baronial style.

Pepper pot turrets

Side Notes:

Queen Victoria purchased the estate in 1852 after the previous owner choked to death on a fishbone.

The highly successful TV series the Crown, as well as, the films The Queen and Mrs. Brown figure events that happened at Balmoral, but none of them included footage actually shoot here.

The Red Squirrel

The Red Squirrel: A future in the forest // A Photo Book                                                                                      @Neil McIntyre

This photo is from a self-published book project by photographer Neil Mcintyre, the proceeds of which will help ensure a future for these amazing creatures in the UK. If you’d like to check out the book and project go to their Kickstarter page:  The Red Squirrel – A Photo Book

What The Red Wants, The Red Gets

The Castle Tour – Episode 3

Motto: “Grace, Me Guide”

Craigievar Castle, a pinkish harled castle named after a nearby hill, is one of the masterworks of Scottish baronial architecture.

The contrast of it’s massive lower story structure topped by the finely sculpted multiple turrets and gargoyles create this classic fairytale appearance. The castle is reputed to have been the inspiration for Walt Disney’s castle motif. The bottom section was built by the Mortimers who ran into financial troubles in 1610 and were forced to sell the lands and unfinished castle to William Forbes, who finished the top section between 1610 and 1626. His descendants occupied the castle until 1963, when it was turned over to the National Trust of Scotland.

Clan Forbes really didn’t make a lot of friends during the 16th century. They blackmailed the citizens of Aberdeen a yearly tun of wine, 252 gallons, for the fishings in the Don. The townspeople were having none of it, so when Arthur Forbes of Brux and his accomplices attacked Aberdeen in July of 1530 the citizens fought back. They brawled in the streets for over 24 hours. Fighting raged furiously throughout Aberdeenshire, and resulted in mutual massacres and murders. Several representatives of Aberdeen lodged a complaint with the King who cautioned the Forbes and their friends to show good behaviour towards the town of Aberdeen. But alas, memories seem to be centuries long here.

“Red” Sir John Forbes

“Red” Sir John Forbes (1636-1703)  was reputed to be a tough laird and it was said that what “the Red wanted, the Red got”.

In 1668 he changed the coat of arms from three docile grey bears to three snarling dogs and adopted the new family motto, “Doe not vain sleeping dos.” or “Let sleeping dogs lie”.

 

The Forbes were staunch Protestants and the Gordons were committed Catholics so they had already been feuding for over 100 years before the Red came on the scene. There had been murders and unspeakable acts of violence on both sides. All of which added credence to a rumor that Red had happened upon a member of the rival Gordon clan bedding his daughter in the Blue Room and a sword fight ensued.  Red forced him out the window at sword-point. Gordon fell 66’ to his death. Future generations have covered the window with a large headboard.

People still claim to hear Gordon’s footsteps walking in the Blue Room, re-enacting the moments prior to his death.

It’s a long way down.

Side Note: No pictures inside?? I don’t get it either.

When The Roadshow Comes To Town

The Castle Tour – Episode 2

Let’s start with a wee gander.

Motto: “Courage Flourishes at a Wound”

Crathes Castle is a 16th century castle near Banchory that sits on land given to the Burnett of Leys family by King Robert the Bruce in 1323. It was held in that family for almost 400 years. Construction of the current tower house of Crathes Castle was begun in 1553.

This is a “harled” castle, which refers to an exterior building-surfacing technique when a pigment is embedded in the harled material, thus alleviating the need for repainting and results in a long-lasting weatherproof shield for a stone building.

The original timbered ceilings have all been restored.

The Laid’s Bedchamber

The Muses’ Room

The Scottish Renaissance painted ceiling in the Muses’ Room is truly amazing. Katherine Burnett’s coat of arms in the center of the ceiling indicates that is was Lady Katherine’s work room. The seven virtues would be better known today as the seven deadly sins.

Your Day In Court

The Court

The Laird, who had the power of “the Pit and the Gallows”, sat at this table with his scribe to his left. Prisoners were led in through a steel door hidden in the alcove on the far right. The accused would stand in front of the desk directly under the Coat of Arms which compelled them to speak nothing but the truth, although it was indicated to me that when you got this far your fate was pretty much sealed. After the verdict was read you were lead to either the pit, the dungeon, or to the gallows.

Grounds & Gardens

The grounds are truly amazing. A small army of committed gardeners work year round maintaining the separate walled gardens. Ancient topiary hedges of Irish yew, that date from 1702, are used to define the eight themed areas.

 

Scottish Humor

The guide in the Laid’s bedchamber showed us a small cupboard that served as the toilet. Of course, with no running water, it was essentially a bucket on the floor. He asked if there were any Englishmen present. A  young couple proudly said yes and then the guide explained that the English had invented the toilet seat, but the Scots had improved it. “Aye, we put a hole in the top”.

Have A Mint

Rohays Burnett

In the 1960’s Rohays Burnett was paid £1000 to appear in an ad for After Eight chocolate mints. The photograph was taken at Crathes Castle. The finished ad appeared in Reader’s Digest with the tagline “No girl should resist temptation”. The advertisement was pulled when the  headmistress of one of the country’s leading private girl’s schools complained that the ad was a bad influence on her girls and completely inappropriate coming from Rowntrees, a Quaker company.

Antique Roadshow Comes To Town

We made it to Crathes Castle just in time to take part in the Antique Roadshow. We feel very fortunate as this was the only show in Scotland this year. There were a lot of people but it never felt overcrowded.

Wendi’s finally at the front of the line.

Fiona Bruce looks on.

The appraisers couldn’t have been nicer and never rushed people along. If they come to your neighborhood be sure to go.

Side Note:

Wendi attempted to Photo Bomb the filming crew every chance she got, so when this episode airs be sure to watch for her 5 seconds of fame.

Wendi is ready.

In the Land of Lairds & Lords

The Castle Tour – Episode 1

We thought it would be fun to see some castles in Scotland only to discover that this place is littered with them. Depending on how you define a castle, estimates can range in the thousands. According to self-styled Castle Hunter David Weinczok, it has to be able to defend itself, “Would a SWAT team have a hard time getting in?” For us it’s much simpler, they only have to meet two criteria, they have to look really cool and, most importantly, have furniture. That’s right furniture.

We have no interest in rubble. I’m certain some of you history buffs are aghast and that there are amazing stories about the people and events that occurred in some of these ruins, but we just don’t have the time and, lets be honest here, visually, a pile of rocks is, well, a pile of rocks.

So let’s take a look at a few places that you can still throw a coat of paint on.

Motto: “All My Hope Is In God”

Construction of the elaborate, five-story Z-plan castle was begun in 1575 by Michael Fraser, the 6th Laird of Fraser, and was completed in 1636.

The castle was passed down through the Lords Fraser and then to the Mackenzie family who took the name Mackenzie Fraser. In 1897 the last male Fraser of the direct line, Frederick Mackenzie Fraser, died childless.

In 1921 his widow, Theodora, sold the castle due to the lack of a suitable heir and mounting financial difficulties.

 

 

The Dining Room table could be configured to accommodate most any number of guests.

Some of the last 16th century Jacobean carved woodwork in the country.

Through this cupboard is a grating that lets you listen to conversations in the Great Hall below. It’s called the Laird’s Lug(Ear).

This little hole let the Laird keep an eye on activities in the Great Room below.

The Peacock Room

The wallpaper in the Peacock Parlour is a rare survivor of the 19th century. Pineapples were considered hugely prestigious then.

Hot water was carried up three stories to fill this Oxford Tub. You were turned towards the fire with your feet hanging out.

The concept of the Frog Mug is that the surprise of seeing a frog at the bottom of your beer will cure what ails you.

Called the rich man’s disease, gout was caused by excessive meat, sugar and alcohol consumption.
These stools are for gentlemen to rest their swollen feet on.

Hunting was a huge activity. It seems they displayed and stuffed everything.

Even the dogs.

The View From Above

The key to any defense is seeing all around so nobody can sneak up on you. You need a good tower with a great view.

Tower Turret

Ghost Stories

One of the most haunted castles in Scotland, Fraser Castle is home to the ghost of a princess who was brutally murdered while asleep in the ‘Green Room’.

The Green Room

Her body was dragged down the stone stairs, leaving a trail of blood stains. Legend has it that as hard as the housekeepers tried, they could not scrub out the stains, and were forced to cover the steps in wood panelling, which remains today. She is said to still stalk the halls of the castle during the night. Over the years many residents have reported seeing her ghost throughout the castle.

 

Lady Drummond

Lady Marie Augusta Gabrielle Berenere Blanche Drummond, Frederick MacKenzie Fraser’s first wife, died of consumption in 1873. Sadly this marriage was not blessed with children and, apparently, her apparition has joined the murdered princess. Witnesses have seen the dear departed Lady Drummond in a long black gown stalking the staircases and castle grounds. Visitors and staff have also heard ghostly piano music, whispers in the empty hall and the sound of children laughing and singing, only to find that there were no children at the castle.

Side Notes

Some scenes in the 2006 film The Queen, starring Dame Helen Mirren, featured Castle Fraser as a backdrop.

 

 

 

For you fans of the Outlander series I should note that, although the gift shop is loaded with Outlander collectibles, none of the Tour Guides ever mentioned Jamie or Claire.

 

A Bonnie Wee Place

We visited Edinburgh 20 years ago and a lot has changed since then. There seems to be construction projects everywhere and yet it’s core appears relatively in tact with the exception of a hoard of new tourists from every corner of the globe.. During our first visit, traveling in Europe was still pretty much the purview of Americans, Canadians, Australians and other Europeans with just a smattering of folks from more distant locales. Now, in the new global economy, everyone has hit the road. Asians, Africans, Middle Easterners and South Americans all fill the streets to catch a glimpse of Europe’s cultural past. Crowded as it may be, this is still a wonderful city with much to see and do.

Dr. Thomas Chalmers Looks Towards Edinburgh Castle – New Town

Sir Walter Scott Monument – New Town

George IV Statue – New Town

The cultural center of the city is divided into two distinct areas, the Old Town which sits upon Castle Rock and the New Town in the valley directly below. Prior to the mid 1700s, Edinburgh was probably not a place anybody from the 21st century would want to visit. It consisted of a long market street, now the Royal Mile, stretching along the spine of the rock up to the castle at the top.

The Royal Mile – Old Town

Old Town

The Royal Mile – Old Town

The Royal Mile – Old Town

Old Town

The Scotsman – North Bridge – Old Town

The narrow side alleys or closes ran perpendicular to the main street and snaked through the tall tenement buildings to the valley below. The buildings facing the market street were filled cheek to jowl with rich and poor alike. With absolutely no sanitation, sewage ran freely down the closes and culminated in a stagnant pond, i.e. cesspool, at the bottom of the hill. The city was a nasty and often dangerous place, filled with disease and rats. The slums were considered the worst in Europe and it is said that you could smell them from 12 miles away.

Advocates Close – Old Town

Old Town

Roxburgh’s Close – Old Town

Gladstone House – Old Town – Scottish National Trust

Riddle’s Close – Old Town

Riddle’s Close – Old Town

Riddle’s Court – Old Town

Wardroom’s Court – Old Town

This all changed in 1776 when a young architect named Jame Craig was selected to design a New Town in the area to the Northland below the old city. Over the next two decades the new grid layout filled with Georgian townhouses for the rich and fashionable and gave Edinburgh a whole new start, allowing it to be dubbed “the Athens of the North”.

The Albert Memorial in Charlotte Square – New Town

Georgian Townhouses

Georgian Townhouse

The Georgian House – Scottish National Trust

The Georgian House – Scottish National Trust

Over the past few years Wendi and I have been fortunate enough to see some great art in some of Europe’s most outstanding museums. Edinburgh, like all great European capitals, has it’s share. We have been to the Scottish National Gallery and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery this week and they are both amazing buildings filled with stunning works of art.

Scottish National Gallery

The view from Scottish National Gallery

Scottish National Gallery

Robert Burns at the National Portrait Gallery

Although I am consistently moved and inspired by so much of the art, the things that I have find most compelling and captivating are the amazing stories of the creators and the subjects they have chosen to depict.

Aye, so you think you love your wee doggie do you.

“Callum” – John Emms – 1895

Meet Callum, an adorable little Dandie Dismount terrier who was owned by James Cowan Smith. The Honorable Mr. Smith commissioned English artist John Emms to paint his beloved dog in 1895. In 1919 the Smith estate bequeathed £55,000 to the Gallery. This was an astronomical sum at the time, a legacy that allowed the purchase of John Constable’s Dedham Vale, Singer Sargent’s Lady Agnew and Goya’s El Medico. There was only one condition, the Gallery had to agree to permanently display Emm’s portrait of Callum. A promise it has keep for almost 100 years.

“Lady Agnew of Lochnaw” – John Singer Sargent – 1892

The American painter John Singer Sargent spent the vast majority of his life living and working in Europe and became hugely successful in his lifetime. After securing a commission through negotiations which he carried out personally, Sargent would visit the client’s home to see where the painting was to hang and would often review a client’s wardrobe to pick suitable attire. He often worked in his studio, which was well-stocked with furniture and background materials he chose for proper effect. He had no assistants and handled all the tasks, such as preparing his canvases, varnishing the painting, arranging for photography, shipping, and documentation himself.  He commanded about $5,000 per portrait, or about $130,000 in current dollars. Some American clients traveled to London, at their own expense, to have Sargent paint their portrait. It all sounds good but the road was not without it’s bumps. When his most controversial work, Portrait of Madame X, now considered one of his best, was unveiled in Paris at the 1884 Salon, it aroused such a negative reaction that it is thought to have prompted Sargent’s move to London. Strange, given that  the English critics were particularly harsh to him, calling his technique  “Frenchified”  with “no taste in expression, air, or modeling.” But all scandal disappeared in 1893 when this painting, the Lady Agnew, was exhibited at the Royal Academy. It’s critical success allowed Sargent to average as many as fourteen portrait commissions per year during the 1890s. If my math serves me right that’s a couple million a year. Not bad for a boy with almost no formal education other then a constant diet of museums and an odd assortment of art tudors.

“Winter Day, Finzean” – Joseph Farquharson – 1901

Besides being the Laird of Finzean in Aberdeenshire, Joseph Farquharson was a successful professional painter. He built a movable hut on wheels with allowed him to set up throughout his beautiful wooded estate and capture, en plein-air, the snowy landscapes that made him famous. Unlike this painting, much of his work contained the sheep that populated the estate, which prompted the nickname, “Frozen Mutton Farquharson”.

“The Comforts of Industry” – George Morland – 1780s

“The Miseries of Idleness” – George Morland – 1780s

Clearly English painter George Moreland knows his subject matter.  By way of comparison, these two companion pieces illustrate the benefits of an orderly and industrious life as opposed to the shortcomings of a drunken and slovenly life. Ironically Moreland died bankrupted of alcoholism at the relatively young age of 41.

“Portrait of Sarah Malcolm” – William Hogarth – 1733

I guess you’d have to call this painting a spec job because I’m certain that Sarah didn’t commission it. She is shown here in her cell at Newgate Prison just two days before her execution for the murder of her mistress Lydia Buncombe and two fellow servants. Celebrated writer and collector Horace Walpole purchased the painting from the artist. 

“The world is a tragedy to those who feel, but a comedy to those who think”  – Horace Walpole

“The Three Legends of St. Nicholas” – Gerard David – 1500-20

We investigated the life and legends surrounding St. Nicholas while in Holland last December for the Sinterclaus celebration. This is the first artwork we’ve seen depicting the original Santa Claus’ legend and miracles. In the left panel the future Saint stands in a wash basin thanking God for his birth, certainly an early achiever. In the center panel he saves three impoverished girls from a life of prostitution by financing their dowries, something that he is reputed to have done throughout his life. By the third panel it all goes a little dodgy. He is said to have brought the three young boys back to life after they had been murdered and salted down for meat during a famine. Sure, that could happen.

“Landscape with Huntsmen and Dead Game (Allegory of the Sense of Smell)” – Jan Weenix – 1697

This one of a series of five large paintings depicting the five senses. It was purchased in the 1920s by American Press Magnate, William Randolph Hearst, who sold it to RKO Pictures. They, in turn, sold it to Paramount Studios who used it as a backdrop in a Bob Hope movie in 1946.

“A School for Boys and Girls“ – Jan Steen – 1670

This painting is not just some light-hearted view of a classroom out of control. It is meant to demonstrate the evils of inattentiveness in a school without discipline. There are many clues hidden in the picture but the most telling is a child offering a pair of glasses to an owl next to a lantern with illustrates an old Dutch proverb, “What use are glasses or light if the owl does not want to see?”

“A School for Boys and Girls“ – Detail

“The Murder of David Rizzio” – Sir William Allan – 1833

By 1566 members of Mary, Queen of Scots court felt that the young Queen was far too influenced by her private secretary, the Italian musician David Rizzio, and murdered him, as she watched, in an apartment at Hollyroodhouse in Edinburgh. During 1817 Sir Walter Scott asked Allan to illustrate major themes from Scottish history and the two visited the apartment which was already a major tourist attraction.

“The Murder of David Rizzio” – Detail

“The Murder of David Rizzio” – Detail

Got to get gaun, we be having a bevvy the nite.

Haarlem – Bulb City

haarlem26Haarlem is a great city in the Province of North Holland. Being the center of the tulip bulb growing district for centuries, it is nicknamed ‘Bloemenstad’, or “flower city”. With a population around 160,000 and a compact inner city, it’s small enough to explore and enjoy. Granted city status in 1245, it has a long and rich history.

Traditionally one of the the most powerful trading cities in Holland, during the 18th century trade shifted to Amsterdam and Haarlem turned into a bedroom community and summer resort with many workers commuting to the larger capital. In the long run this shift has allowed the historic old city center to remain relatively in tact.

Haarlem Central Station

Haarlem Central Station

haarlem24

Haarlem Central Station

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

16th Century Facades

haarlem9

Gravestenenbrug

haarlem5

Hofje van Oorschot – An old folks home

Grote Markt

The Grote Markt is the center of town and abounds with cafes and shops of all kinds.

Stadhuis

Stadhuis

Grote Markt Cafe

Grote Markt Cafe

Grote Market - Grote Kerk

Grote Market – Grote Kerk

The Grote Markt - 1696

The Grote Markt – 1696

Frans Hals Museum

Frans Hals is probably the most celebrated Haarlem artist to emerge during the Dutch Golden Age and has his own museum to prove it.

Frans Hals Museum

Frans Hals Museum

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

The Ten Booms, a highly devote Christian family, were watchmakers during the second war world. They felt it their duty to help protect those in trouble and used their small house as a hiding place for Jews and Resistance fighters. These actions led to the death of the entire family, with the exception of the young Coorie, at the hands of the Nazi’s.

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

Coorie Ten Boom Museum

Up to six adults at a time had to squeeze into this hiding place.

Up to six adults at a time had to squeeze into this hiding place.

The roof of Coorie Ten Boom house provided the only fresh air for victims.

The roof of the Coorie Ten Boom house provided the only fresh air for victims.

The Teylers Museum

This was my favorite museum in town. The Teylers is a fascinating mix of early technology, fossils, astronomical equipment,16th & 17th century prints and drawings and great Dutch Golden Age paintings.

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

Teyers Museum

Teylers Museum

The Women

The Dutch love their women and well they should. Most are statuesque, self assured and highly educated. Maternity and family leave are hugely important issues here. The country is very close to pay equality and although there still isn’t complete sexual parity in top executive positions, they are rapidly getting there. It seems that strong female role models have always been revered here. Among them is:

Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer

kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer3

On December 11, 1572 the Spanish army began the siege of Haarlem. During the first two months of the siege, the situation was stable. The Spanish army was digging tunnels to reach the city walls while the defenders dug under them to destroy the Spaniards’ tunnels. By March 29, 1573 the situation worsened when the Spanish and Amsterdam Armies effectively cut off Haarlem from the outside world and began to starve them out. By July 13, 1573, after seven months of siege, the city reached an agreement with the Spaniards to open the city gates in exchange for amnesty and a ban on looting. After surrendering the Spanish reneged on the deal and began looting and slaughtered over 2000 of the city defenders.

kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer

Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer leads the charge.

Following the siege, the name of Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer began to emerge. Diarists reported that the powerful widow helped defend the city and rebuild the defenses that had been destroyed by enemy cannon. One account mentions that Kenau and other women stood on the earthworks and threw burning tar wreaths onto the enemy who would leap into the river to douse the flames only to drown from the weight of their armor. Over time the legend of Kenau’s role has expanded to full-fledged soldier and commander of a small female army. She has been honored during every celebration of independence from Spain. But, separating fact from fiction in these matters is always difficult and her role in the siege has been the subject of much debate. Regardless, her personality must have been a fearsome thing. We do know for certain that after the war she resumed her trade as a wood  merchant importing lumber from Norway. When her captain was taken hostage by pirates she travelled north to negotiate his release and died at the hands of the same pirates.

Definitely the stuff of legend.

The Wendi Files – The British Edition

Would any visit be complete without a quick look at Wendi’s escapades? I think not. Like countless invading armies before her, Wendi has stormed through this little corner of England mollifying the natives, confiscating booty and laying waste to every flea market in her path. There are many here in Suffolk that will long remember that fateful autumn when “Wendi the Fearless” extracted many a treasure and stole not a few hearts from these fair shores.

Making Friends

The Tallest Bobby In BurySt. Edmunds

The Tallest Bobby In Bury St. Edmunds

With Fred At Sandringham

With Fred At Sandringham

Fred said he worked directly for the Royal Family for over twenty years and had indeed met the Queen, but was sworn to secrecy and could not reveal any of the juicy bits Wendi longed to hear.

Making friends with Mr. Sausage

Making friends with Mr. Sausage

We met Terry for drinks at the Ivory Cafe. He is the largest producer of sausage casings in the world. Not just anyone can look at pig intestines and think “opportunity”.

Off to the Newmarket Horse Races

Winning Bet Number 1

Winning Bet Number 1

Winning Bets Number 2 & 3

Winning Bets Number 2 & 3

Wendi buddy up to her Bookie

Wendi buddies up to her Bookie

And Now For A Little Historic Culture

The Joy of Sandringham

The Sheer Joy of Sandringham

Ickworth

Bombed at Ickworth

Highclere

Lady Wendi on the grounds of Highclere Castle

Anglesey Abbey

Just the right angle at Anglesey Abbey

Searching for the Ghost of Anne Boleyn on the back stairs at Blickling Estate

Searching for the Ghost of Anne Boleyn on the back stairs at Blickling Estate

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey Abbey

Walking the dog at Southwold Pier

Walking the dog at Southwold Pier

Walking in Beatrix Potter's footsteps at Melford Hall

Walking in Beatrix Potter’s footsteps at Melford Hall

Wimple Estate

Stalking the Servant’s Quarters at Wimple Estate

Time For A Little Shopping

Welcome to the Hingham Flea Market

Welcome to the Hingham Flea Market

Hat time at the Norwich Oxfam

Hat time at the Norwich Oxfam

And what trip would be complete without a stop at Mr. Shoes

And what trip would be complete without a stop at Mr. Shoes?

To The Manor Born

Capability Brown

Capability Brown

Capability Brown

Lancelot “Capability” Brown will forever be linked to these great mansions and is remembered as “the last of the great English 18th century artists to be accorded his due”, and “England’s greatest gardener”.   Mr. Brown’s influence was so great that the contributions to the English garden made by his predecessors are often overlooked.   During the height of his career It is estimated that Brown was responsible for over 170 gardens surrounding the finest country houses and estates in Britain.   He completely dominated landscape design in the 18th century and during the 1760s averaged commissions of about £740,000 a year.

“In Brown’s hands the house, which before had dominated the estate, became an integral part of a carefully composed landscape intended to be seen through the eye of a painter, and its design could not be divorced from that of the garden”

He was nicknamed “Capability” because he would tell his clients that their property had the “capability” for improvement.

The Manors

These estates were more then just big houses. They controlled the economy in villages, towns and even whole counties. Maintaining and operating these country cottages required hoards of housekeepers, legions of lawn men, battalions of butlers, cadres of cooks and a phalanx of farmers. But, after the World Wars, when the seemingly endless supply of underpaid workers dried up it became impossible to maintain this system any longer. I’m pretty sure this is where our whole notion of “trickle down economics” came from. Keep the rich folks happy and they will, in turn, provide low paid employment. Regardless of my cynicism, these homes are magnificent and thanks to the National Trust most have been saved for the nation and the world to enjoy. They represent the pinnacle of art and culture from a bygone era when civility, learning and social standing were paramount. Provided it wasn’t you that had to do the dusting.

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey Abbey

Anglesey was built as a priory in 1100 but, like most Catholic Orders, the Augustinian Canons were expelled in 1536 during the Dissolution of the Monasteries and all the good stuff was taken. Over the centuries it bounced around through a few owners until 1926 when Huddleston Broughton, having inherited a fortune from mining and railroads in America, bought the place. He started to renovate in earnest and began to amass a huge collection of beautiful furniture, artworks and statuary. Huddleston became the Baron Fairhaven in 1929. He never married and decided in the early 40’s that he would leave the Abbey and all it’s contents to the National Trust on his death. Which effectively meant that he spent his adult life collecting for the Trust.

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Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Baron Fairhaven

Another Baron Fairhaven – I’m sensing a theme here.

We grew up with a family dog named “Bungey”. In all these years I’ve never seen or even heard of another one until I met the Baron’s.

Bungey

Bungey

 

Blickling Estate

Blickley Hall

Blickley Hall

This magnificent Jacobean mansion located in Norfolk and covers more than 4,000 acres. Before it’s last private owner Phillip Kerr died in 1940 he helped build the National Trust and save hundreds of grand homes for future generations to enjoy. But even with his accomplishments Kerr is far from Blickley’s most famous resident. It is believed that Anne Boleyn, the future beheaded Queen, was born here sometime between 1501 and 1505.

Anne Boleyn

Anne Boleyn

Not to be forgotten, Anne returns every May 9th, the anniversary of her decapitation, dressed all in white, carrying her severed and dripping head. She arrives in a coach driven by a headless horseman and four headless horses. She glides through the hall, rooms and countless corridors until sunrise.

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Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle doesn’t have the turmultuous past of some of it’s counterparts and seems to be most famous as the filming location for the award-winning period drama Downton Abbey.

Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle

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Highclere Castle

The castle stands on the site of an earlier house, which was built on the foundations of the medieval palace of the Bishops of Winchester, who owned this estate from the 8th century. The original site was recorded in the Domesday Book.

Highclere Castle

Highclere Castle

Folly

Jackdaws Castle

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The Family Motto – “Only One Will I Serve”

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

This neoclassical country house was the residence of the Marquess of Bristol before being sold to the National Trust in the late 20th century. The Marquesses of Bristol have laid claim to this estate since 1467.

Ickworth House

Ickworth House

In 1956, the house, park, and contents were given to the National Trust in lieu of death duties. As part of the deal, a 99-year lease on the 60-room East Wing was given to the Marquess of Bristol. However, in 1998 the 7th Marquess of Bristol was a little strapped for cash and sold the remaining lease on the East Wing to the National Trust. He was succeeded by his half-brother Frederick Hervey, the 8th Marquess of Bristol. Freddy tried to buy back the remaining lease, but the Trust refused, thereby contravening the Letter of Wishes which states that the head of the family should always be offered whatever accommodation he chooses at Ickworth.

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Melford Hall

Melford Hall is an amazing estate in the village of Long Melford, Suffolk. The hall was mostly constructed in the 16th century, incorporating parts of a medieval building held by the abbots of Bury St Edmunds which had been in use since before 1065.

Milford Hall

Milford Hall

Milford Hall has had it’s share of trials and tribulations over the years. It was seized from the abbots during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Queen Mary gave it to Sir William Cordell who passed it via his sister to Thomas and Mary Savage. Both were serious Catholics at a time when the Civil War was getting momentum and people were choosing sides. The Savages backed King Charles 1 who would become the only British Monarch to be beheaded. Needless to say, it didn’t go well for the Savages. Thomas died in 1636 leaving Mary and their 13 children broke and considered traitors. Warrants were issued for Mary to answer for her family’s indebtedness. All her appeals were denied and she died in Debtor’s Prison. During the Stour Valley Riots of 1642 the house was attacked and the interiors were demolished by an anti-Catholic crowd.

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In February 1942 soldiers that were billeted at the hall broke into the West End to have some card games and a bit of a dance. They managed to set the whole wing on fire. It was gutted out and rebuilt after war retaining the Tudor brickwork exterior.

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In 1786 it was sold to Harry Parker, son of Admiral Hyde Parker and is considered ancestral seat of the Parker Baronets.

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Queen Elizabeth

Queen Elizabeth

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From the 1890’s Beatrix Potter was a cousin of the Parkers and was a frequent visitor to the hall.

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One of Beatrix’s favorite painting spots.

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham House and it’s 20,000 acres of land are in Norfolk, England. The site has been occupied since the Elizabethan era. In 1862, the hall was purchased by Queen Victoria at the request of the Prince of Wales. The house is privately owned by Queen Elizabeth II and is a Grade II listed country house: having  particularly important buildings of more than special interest.

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

Sandringham

The Royal Family Walks From The Main House To The Chapel Every Christmas. Chapel

The Royal family walks from the main hall to the Chapel for services every Christmas.

Sandringham - The Family Chapel

Sandringham – The Family Chapel

James Brown

James Brown

Home at last.

Home at last.

Wimpole

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

The house, begun in 1640, and is the largest house in Cambridgeshire. The 3,000 acres of parkland and farm were “naturalised” by Capability Brown in 1767.

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

In 1938, Capt. George Bambridge and his rich wife, Elsie, daughter of Rudyard Kipling, purchased it after having been tenants since 1932. They used the inheritance left to them by her father, and the royalties from his books, for the long-needed refurbishment of the house and grounds. When Elsie died in 1979 she left the property to the National Trust.

Wimple Estate

Wimple Estate

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Wimple Estate – Gasolier

Wimple Estate - Family Chapel

Wimple Estate – Family Chapel

Wimple Estate - Servant Stairwell

Wimple Estate – Servant Stairwell

Useless But Interesting Fact #13

This seven drawer high boy dresser has a draw for intimates and small items for each day. Your fancy Sunday garments go in the uppermost draw. Hence the expression “Top Draw”.

Wimple Estate - Dresser

Wimple Estate – Dresser

Southwold Pier

Located in the coastal town of Southwold, this old school pier is a little like a step back to a more innocent time. Originally built in 1909 the pier has suffered many ups and down having been destroyed by storms in 1937, 1955 and again in 1979 reducing it to a length of 60 ft. After much renovation, today’s pier extends 620 ft into the North Sea.

Southwold Pier

Southwold Pier

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English Sunbather or Crime Victim. You decide.

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Bench Armrest

The Under The Pier Show

While many classic English seaside piers have been in decline the Southwold Pier is enjoying renewed popularity, partly due to the “The Under The Pier Show” which features a range of automata, machines and games designed by Tim Hunkin, an English engineer, cartoonist, writer, and artist living in Suffolk. They are about the most peculiar arcade games I’ve ever seen.

pirates

Storm the super yacht and get even with the super rich.

microvacation

Sit in the chair and travel on holiday, moved by the magic carpet. After manic flight and coach ride, arrive in tropical paradise and get brief suntan from heatlamp.

fly

Sit on the fly’s proboscis and experience a fly’s eye view of the world. Stop to eat for as long as you dare, but beware of the fly swat.

dog

Place hand in dog’s cage and hold it there for as long as you dare. Dog pants, dribbles warm saliva and other disgusting things.

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I’ll let you work out where the finger goes.

brainwash

Sit with head half inside processing chamber and watch through mirrors while your scalp is removed and your brain is scrubbed clean. Made by Will Jackson.

bathyscape

Turn the dive lever and descend to the seabed. After witnessing many marvels, get swallowed by a giant fish which causes the craft to leak. Fortunately reverse thrusters are provided for escape.

mobility

Start training for your future today! Cross the motorway using the zimmer frame.

rx

Hold stethoscope again chest and let the doctor diagnose your complaint and write out an illegible prescription.

rentadog

Wendi’s favorite. Stand on the treadmill, hold the dog’s lead and go for a walk. Includes stops at several interesting sights.

Focusing time and space to bring you everything you could possibly want to see through a pier telescope.

Quantum Tunneling Telescope – Focusing time and space to bring you everything you could possibly want to see through a pier telescope.

Beach Huts

These bright colored Beach Huts are small wooden boxes just above the high tide mark. Many were former fishermen’s huts and boat sheds that are now used as shelter from the sun or wind, changing into and out of swimming costumes and for the safe storing of some personal belongings most incorporate simple facilities for preparing food and hot drinks by either bottled gas or an occasional generator.

Southwold Beach Huts

Southwold Beach Huts

You cannot live in these and the length of stays is closely monitored. They were originally offered for hire at £12 10s per year, now they can sell for £40,000 or more.

The Walk of Mirrors

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